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An Electrical Problem I Can't Figure Out...

PWagon

1/2 ton status
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Hey guys, I'm hoping you can help me out here. I have a 1986 K5 Blazer that's mostly stock when it comes to electrical stuff. I have added a GM fuel injection kit, and I have added a dedicated ground wire as well as good connections for the power. I have two Rockford Fosgate amplifiers rated at 250 watts each with dedicated power feeds directly to the battery. Here's my problem. Then engine runs great normally even with the non stereo components turned on (using electric windows, a/c, headlights, etc). However, when I have the air conditioning on and the stereo with both amps on, I notice the engine cutting out. This will happen even if the stereo is turned on very low. It's obvious the amps "cause" a problem. My question is what's the problem? I've had a mechanic check the battery and it tests good. He's also measured the voltage at rest, at idle, and when the stereo and amps are on. The voltage is at 14.1 at idle, and it's at 12.1 when everything electrical is turned on. The mechanic has no idea why the amplifiers are causing the engine to cut out especially since the battery voltage does not drop below 12 volts. Any ideas guys??? :dunno:
 
Several possibilities.

Not sure of the most likely right off hand. It would be a lot easier if I were there.

Just going to throw some out and maybe you can determine the most likely according to how its set up.

First, the electronics in the control system needs voltage above a certain level at all times to work.
Your mechanic's meter shows the voltage over a certain scan period. Unless he is measuring it with a high speed Oscilloscope.

Ever see those huge capacitors car stereo systems have?
That is because the big amps will draw a huge amount of current almost instantaneously when a deep bass note hits.
And you cannot get enough power from the line fast enough to supply it.

So, its entirely possible that you are dropping the voltage on the system way below the minimum threshold for a few milliseconds when the amp makes a sudden draw.
Not long enough for his meter to see, but long enough for the computer to shut down.

Don't forget computers must start under certain conditions as to memory clearing, certain data lines at zero, that sort of thing.
So they all have a watchdog circuit that does a reset on the processor whenever you first start it up.
When the voltage goes below a certain point, the watchdog triggers a reset and restart of the processor, even though it might be able to keep going, because otherwise it might have corrupt data.

This will stretch out the dropout.
While the actual voltage drop might occur so fast that the engine would not have time to stumble, the reset takes long enough for a misfire or a complete shutdown for a few seconds.

Or, you are measureing the voltage at the battery, and its going too low at the computer.
If the computer or some other part of the ignition system shares a power buss with the amp, the voltage level on that buss might go way low without the battery ever seeing it.

Also, you could be overloading the ground.
You usually think of the ground as just being......well, ground. Its everywhere, sort like Chickenman.

But, its is a power line just like the hot wire. Just the other end.
And its made of steel instead of copper, so it has more resistance. The only reason you don't usually get problems with it, is because there is so much of it.

But, with sudden heavy current loads, it might not hold up.

If you are not coming directly off the battery with both the hot wire and a dedicated ground wire for your amp, that could be your problem.

The third reason, might be your choice of music.
Some K5s are hard rockers, but every so often you find one that likes the classical or easy listening...........

Think about your grandmother being forced to listen to Metallica.......
 
Oh, and 12.1 with everything turned on means your alt is not handling the load. Probably going to have to upgrade.
 
Funny stuff! Thank you for the suggestions. I've never heard of Chickenman, but I have heard of Goatman though. I upgraded the alternator to a higher output PowerMaster alternator from Jegs.com. It's rated at 170 amps. I thought for sure it would've been enough to keep up with demand.

What would be your recommendation at this point? Should I consider adding a second battery in parrallel? Should I add a capacitor or two for the amps? Should I throw my Yanni cd out the window? Too funny.
 
Been watching your truck work, and all your posts have been brought up some good questions and discussions... UNTIL NOW... You just lost 17 cool points due to the Yanni CD.
Yea, just kidding on the Yanni cd. I do appreciate all the suggestions and comments. Thanks guys! I hope everyone has a great 3 day weekend.
 
I've put a few decent stereos in my Suburban and now the Blazer. In the suburban, I had 2 - JL Audio amps and 1 - Phoenix Gold amp. At full volume and at large drum/bass beats, I noticed my headlights dimming to the beat. There just wasn't enough power to supply everything. Stereo shop suggested a capacitor (as mentioned above) but I decided a new battery was in order (and also due). I opted for the Yellow Top Optima vs. the Red Top (that was being replaced).

Wow, big difference! Just switching from the Red top to the Yellow Top, I had more reserve power and the headlights didn't dim anymore.

The blazer has the same system less one JL Audio amp. I haven't had much of a problem there. Ground could be something. Is everything going to a single, common ground location? You want the ground location about 12" from the amp. Not a long run for grounding.

Just some thoughts for you.....
 

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