I always use the vise grip first, once it slips it's rounded up, I don't give it a chance.
CK5
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An entire brake job?
- Thread starter Aviodont
- Start date
What I am dreading is the snaking of the lines. I think I will try initially just to do the master, the lines from the master to the distribution block (or whatever is is called), the lines to the calipers and their rubber hoses, the calipers/pads, the lines along the rear axle and their hoses, and complete rebuild of the rear brakes.
Would you go straight away with vice grips or would you give it a chance with a brake line wrench. I’d have to buy one.
If the vise grips butcher the nut, are you committed to changing the line? How about if it only deforms it a tad?
After I ruined a few that I thought should be easy, I started using the vise grips from the beginning, do it so well you can't see a mark.
there is a fine line with vise grips. Normally you squish the hex enough that a flare wrench will not fit the nut any more. The direction of vise grips may or may not make a difference. I like to push on the straight side, my 1st go to would be the 6" long nose. If those slip on 1st attempt, then the 6" curved jaw, if those ain't doing it 8" curved jaw. If its not loose by this time, cut the line and pound a socket over the nut use a long ratchet.
Pro Tip try tightening the line just a smidge before you try to loosen.
Pro Tip try tightening the line just a smidge before you try to loosen.
should I do the little tightening with a brake line wrench first, then loosen with vise grip? Or both directions vice grips?
I use the long nose, and I go just tight enough to not crush but not allow to open and slip.
I also smack it with a small hammer to not allow a deflection, a snap and it breaks loose.
which ever you choose to use do both with same.
like i said before HEAT and COLD water shock .......... my whole life in rust belt i know how to deal with rust .
Well, ten months later , I sat down to finally do this job. It turns out the one with bad wheel cylinder and rusty brake line (after months of PB blaster), came off with….get this…. An adjustable wrench.
The other side, that I thought would be easy (and also got the PB blaster treatment) needed the vice grips. And the first time, the vice grips spun. I had to bring a larger vice grip and then it came off.
Drums were turned today. Brake hardware kit, shoes and cylinder coming in a few days. Then…. Ah the joys of brake bleeding!
The other side, that I thought would be easy (and also got the PB blaster treatment) needed the vice grips. And the first time, the vice grips spun. I had to bring a larger vice grip and then it came off.
Drums were turned today. Brake hardware kit, shoes and cylinder coming in a few days. Then…. Ah the joys of brake bleeding!
rampage
3/4 ton status
You can make a pressure bleeder from a garden sprayer for easy one person bleeding (Google something like “DIY pressure bleeder”). I don’t fill the canister with brake fluid though, just use air pressure and keep an eye on the fluid level and top off when needed.
This is what I was going to say. When the nut is corroded to the fitting enough you can't turn it, usually the nut is also corroded to line. At that point, whatever you use to turn the nut, the line will get twisted and no wrench grips as well as a hex socket pounded on for 360-degree engagement.
But sometimes luck is on your side and some time/heat/penetrant can turn the impossible into possible.
So I was able to get the lines out without twisting, then cleaned everything and it looked good. Then I went to put line into the new cylinder and it would not go in well. I even freed the line up to be able to work the angle. Still, no dice. I was thinking maybe I got the wrong cylinder, so I found a bolt that would go into both the old and new cylinders easily. So I just assume the nut is the issue.
So it looks like I will need to cut the end of the line and put new nuts on, then do the flaring. Does anyone know which type of flaring tool I need to use? I borrowed a double flaring tool from OReillys. But how do you know which parts to use. First timer here.
Unbolt th cylinder from the backing plate and try again.
The wheel cylinder was not even connected so as to have wiggle room. I actually loosened the brake line from the differential so that I could raise it above the backing plate for unimpeded access and tried to screw the wheel cylinder on watching carefully at the angle of entry to avoid cross threading. It would only go on one turn before I could no longer turn it by hand.
Okay, sounds like you did everything. You can buy the line flared with tube nuts, since you have the other end loose.
Measure the length of your part, should be able to get close.
Do you have a flaring tool? If not the parts stores do rent them. Inspect the tool well if it is not a new 1. Watch a few yt vids on flaring before you tent tool.
Might want to look at NiCopp brake line, if you are going make from scratch.
Measure the length of your part, should be able to get close.
Do you have a flaring tool? If not the parts stores do rent them. Inspect the tool well if it is not a new 1. Watch a few yt vids on flaring before you tent tool.
Might want to look at NiCopp brake line, if you are going make from scratch.
I was going to just cut a half inch off since the line has some bends that I can stretch a little.
I don’t know how easy it would be to get out the other end of the line that attaches to a three way adapter on top of the differential.
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I ended up saying “F-it, wheel cylinders are cheap” and just got a wrench and started threading the nut into the wheel cylinders. It ended up working fine. Bled the brakes and closed her up.
That said, I think air is in the master which happened when the wheel cylinder originally ruptured and the pedal fell to the floor and he had to find somewhere safe to park it. Since it wasn’t the best looking inside, I may as well replace the master cylinder and flush all the fluid.
With regards to bench bleeding, I saw one guy who didn’t even use the push rod. He connected the bleeding kit lines from the outlets (which go to the brakes) up into the reservoir. He filled up the reservoir, then took a syringe, sucked up brake fluid and holding the syringe downward from the reservoir towards the master cylinder, he injected directly into the master cylinder. It took the air inside the cylinder, exhausted it out the outlet ports, up the tubes and into the reservoir. Does that work?
I ask because I don’t have a vice and I have heard bleeding on the vehicle is not wise because of the angle of the master cylinder could leave air trapped. Perhaps I could jack up the rear of the vehicle to level the cylinder.
That said, I think air is in the master which happened when the wheel cylinder originally ruptured and the pedal fell to the floor and he had to find somewhere safe to park it. Since it wasn’t the best looking inside, I may as well replace the master cylinder and flush all the fluid.
With regards to bench bleeding, I saw one guy who didn’t even use the push rod. He connected the bleeding kit lines from the outlets (which go to the brakes) up into the reservoir. He filled up the reservoir, then took a syringe, sucked up brake fluid and holding the syringe downward from the reservoir towards the master cylinder, he injected directly into the master cylinder. It took the air inside the cylinder, exhausted it out the outlet ports, up the tubes and into the reservoir. Does that work?
I ask because I don’t have a vice and I have heard bleeding on the vehicle is not wise because of the angle of the master cylinder could leave air trapped. Perhaps I could jack up the rear of the vehicle to level the cylinder.
I think it should work.
I never bothered with bleeding the master, just fill it and start bleeding the lines for a few minutes, leave the bleeder open with a clear tube up a bit for a few hours, come back finish bleeding then go for a drive on long down hill pumping it, it always worked
