What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Angle of carb base - Edelbrock Aluminum intake manifolds...

Greg72

Greg72

@MIGHTASWELLK5
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Posts
17,071
Reaction score
5,716
Location
Austin, TX
Intakes usually have the carb base angled to accomodate the fact that the engine is installed at an angle....helps to keep the carb level on perfectly flat ground (where we ALL drive, right? :wink1:)

Anyway, from a few of my own guesstimates, I believe it's setup with 4 degrees of angularity. Does anyone have information that can confirm this value?? :dunno:


:usaflag:
 
Last edited:
They measure anywhere from 3-5 degrees, so anywhere in that range is fine. It probably doesn't matter that much since you're running fuel injection anyway.:wink1:
 
That's about what I figured...

I've been taking measurements off the top crease of my 502 valve covers. It's pretty flat and I believe it to be a good reference point. The intake manifold shows 4 degrees when I have the valve cover leveled.

For some reason, I seem to get more repeatable numbers off the manifold base (any twisting of the anglefinder skews the readout) so I thought I'd use the manifold instead and lay the edge right across the two tapped holes, so I'd be sure to get a nice "square" reading.

:thinking:

I'm setting up the motor to be exactly level, just like the framerails under the cab are... to me it looks a lot more "correct" than the normal "laid back" orientation from the factory. PLUS, once I installed the tranny and xfer case up as high as I'd wanted....the engine ends up a lot more level as a byproduct anyway.
 
I usually set mine up to where the transmission pan is paralllel to the frame and use the angle gauge (or level) to check side to side. Seems to work great for trucks and jeeps.

Cars are usually more particular just because the driveline angle is so critical to keep vibration under control.
 
From back in my race car days you want the carb flange to be angled back 4 degrees. This helps with fuel distribution.
 
Won't it help with oil control as well, forcing everything from the top down to (theoretically) head towards the sump? Not to mention less likelihood of pooling in the heads.
 
There are oil return holes in the front and back of the heads. The whole reason it is angled is for fuel distribution and nothing else. If the engine were port injected it wouldn't matter at all but since his won't be it would be wise to keep the proper angle.
 
Well, now that I've got the engine in it's final position the manifold is raked FORWARD at 4 degrees.

The engine block itself is completely level. It sits about as high as I can allow between the framerails. If I drop the tranny/xfercase a few inches, I can rake the motor backwards, but I'm not willing to give up the underbelly clearance.

So...what to do now? Some sort of 4* angled phenolic spacer so that the carb will set level again?? :thinking:

I guess I could JB Weld the existing mounting holes shut, then CNC the carb base area to whatever angle I want....then drill, and re-tap the threads for the carb?? :dunno:

Edit: Photo added for clarity...

DSC00988ps.jpg


:usaflag:
 
Last edited:
He would still need to weld or plug the carb mounting holes and then redrill so that they are square to the new mounting surface or machine the carb base to match the new angle. We've already discussed this over the phone.
 
As I see it you have a few options, and all have a downside.

1: Leave as is and see what happens, (how often is this thing going to be level?)honestly this is the best until you can go injection IMO.

2: Mill intake, a Holley or AFB will still bolt up OK a Q-jet will not.

3: Adjust drivetrain angle.

4: Step up to fuel injection.

5: Stop build and sit in the house nekkid.


You've undoubtedly thought of all of these and know the ins and outs of each option. I don't think it's anything to serious so just continue on with the build and the best option will probably become pretty obvious as things progress.
 
bigblock72 said:
As I see it you have a few options, and all have a downside.

1: Leave as is and see what happens, (how often is this thing going to be level?)honestly this is the best until you can go injection IMO.

2: Mill intake, a Holley or AFB will still bolt up OK a Q-jet will not.

3: Adjust drivetrain angle.

4: Step up to fuel injection.

5: Stop build and sit in the house nekkid.


You've undoubtedly thought of all of these and know the ins and outs of each option. I don't think it's anything to serious so just continue on with the build and the best option will probably become pretty obvious as things progress.
Click to expand...

I've already decided to go with some sort of EFI.... something like a Holley 950 Commander or that new Powerjection "look alike" carb that has hidden injectors. I want the "carb look" but want the functionality and performance of an EFI system... http://www.professional-products.com/EFI_Main.php

Any comments on that one? :deal:
 
Greg72 said:
I've already decided to go with some sort of EFI.... something like a Holley 950 Commander or that new Powerjection "look alike" carb that has hidden injectors. I want the "carb look" but want the functionality and performance of an EFI system... http://www.professional-products.com/EFI_Main.php

Any comments on that one? :deal:
Click to expand...

I'm curious too... It's basically just 4bbl TBI. Can it be controlled with a standard GM ECM or FAST/Megasquirt, etc...???
 
I thought you were going to inject it but some of the things that were said made it sound like you were going to run a carb for a while. I'm very glad to hear that it is going to be injected. With injection there is nothing to worry about. Even a TBI setup will work properly running at 4 degrees. It's only semi important for a carb to be level for the float level to be semi consistent and not cause drivability problems or in high horsepower cars to not uncover jets etc.


I don't know anyone who is running that particular system nor have I installed one. It looks quite nice and I think it will very well. The only thing I worry about is the returnless fuel system as they don't mention a fuel regulator anywhere. It's quite important for fuel pump life and drivability to have a return style regulator somewhere so the pump isn't deadheaded and trying to make 80-90 psi of pressure. The fuel injector volume changes drasticly with pressure so it would be almost impossible to get any kind of consistency without a pressure regulator. Fortunately that would be easy to remedy with a regulator that they make or even mounting a Corvette style fuel filter after the pump.
 
RGV72BLAZER said:
Greg you should have just sent me this link :D :haha: Perfect info here...Thanks
Click to expand...


Whaddya want me to do.....hand you all the answers on a silver platter? :D

Next you'll be asking me to fly down to the real South Texas to finish your build for you! :doah::haha:

Get busy! BlazerBash 2010 is just around the corner, and I want to check out your rig in person....



:usaflag:
 
So does that mean that if I attend BB10 that I will get to meet you in person?

Too bad that is still two years away, but I might actually have mine ready by then. I will be attending BB09, at least that's what I told my wife.
 
2010.... that's the plan.

So far it's a caravan of two. Me and VTBlazer. No tow vehicles either....just our 1st Gens and the open road.

I feel very strongly that a Blazer should be capable enough to wheel offroad AND run well down the highway, and that's exactly what I intend to do. However, if you've seen my build thread you already know that I've still got a lot of work ahead of me. :wink1:


:usaflag:
 
My cheapo redneck solution:
1-get a 1" plastic carb spacer
2-mill/grind/plane/erode/drag it on the highway until you get the desired angle
3-install it with 5/16 reddy rod of the required length bent to fit
4-have a beer and call it done!:woot:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom