88k5blazin
1/2 ton status
What are the advantages/dissadvantages or recommendations for trying to get a better pinion angle on my d60. I am debating welding in some shims if its recommended. Wanted to see if t affected driveability or steering
CK5
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angling a d60
- Thread starter 88k5blazin
- Start date
Only way to get a better angle is to knock off the inner C and reweld at a different angle. You are pretty much stuck with whatever degree your knuckles should be at.
88k5blazin
1/2 ton status
So if I were to say put a 5 degree shim between the perch and spring it wouldn't help the pinion angle
Treeman587
Registered Member
Changing caster by 5 degrees is a lot. I wouldnt do it
It would, but you'd be near 0 deg caster and the thing would steer terribly.
Bicycle forks are angled back, that angle is the caster angle and that's what lets you ride a bicycle with no hands. When you go to zero caster, think of a unicycle and how well it keeps going straight.
Unfortunately, cutting and turning the c's is the way to go.
88k5blazin
1/2 ton status
I was just using that hypothetically. I have a set of 2.5's but sounds like that's not a good idea either
88k5blazin
1/2 ton status
Does anyone know the stock pinion angle of a d60. I think I may have already altered it when I did the 52 in conversion with longer shackles
Varies quite a bit but 5-7 is a good bet
88k5blazin
1/2 ton status
Cool thanks. Now of I wound up bringing the pinion angle to around 2 or 3 by changing the springs would it be ok to use shims to bring it back to the stock angle or is it better for the steering and driveability with it lowered?
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
Sure, I ended up with a caster angle of 12* (@ ride height) after I swapped in the 56" springs.
So I installed 6* shims to get it down to 6* (12-6).
But you could probably get away with 4* of caster as well.
If it's a trail-only rig, you could even get away with 0* caster
You can find some more info here in this post in my build thread:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2711679&postcount=138
Be aware that you'll need two shims on the passenger side.
And the upper one needs to be pretty long (not many mfg's takes that into consideration it seems):
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271389
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88k5blazin
1/2 ton status
I put 2.5 degree shims in the front to see how it would effect things. Wow what a difference it made. Steering got real wobbly. Vibbed real bad. Wandered all over the road. I thought it would be ok cause my caster is about 8 degrees. I thought id be bringing it to standard level but not so. Guess I gotta start looking into cutting out the c's and rewelding
smalltruckbigcid
1/2 ton status
Castor is a very important angle.
Sorry I've been slacking I told Rene I would put up an alignment 101 article explaining this so those that don't understand will have some help. I've been sort of busy
Sorry I've been slacking I told Rene I would put up an alignment 101 article explaining this so those that don't understand will have some help. I've been sort of busy
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
I don't think it should be that bad with 5.5* caster, I think something is worn out.
Less caster can make worn out joints more noticeable...
88k5blazin
1/2 ton status
I do plan on checking over all the parts. The truck hadent been driving for awile so its getting quite a makeover. I just wanna get everything right to eliminate any problems that are gonna lead to me getting towed home on a flatbed
88k5blazin
1/2 ton status
If I were to cut and reweld the c's to a more preferable angle id still have to insert shims to match the offset... right? Since I can't relocate the perch on the d60
correct the pinion angle to what you want.
then cut and turn the inner "c" s to get them to stock specs and reweld.
the hard part will be turning the inner "c" s and measuring them to watch the movement.
then cut and turn the inner "c" s to get them to stock specs and reweld.
the hard part will be turning the inner "c" s and measuring them to watch the movement.
88k5blazin
1/2 ton status
When the c's are cut off does the axle tube slide into them to eliminate the need for bracing to ensure proper positioning and can this job be achived with the axle still under the truck and just the knuckes left on?
only my self heard of this . and seen pics years ago somewere of a jig made to hold the axle housing with shafts/spindles/brakes off and bolted up to knuckles were spindles would have been. then bottle jack under the pinion section of the diff.
thay had some measuring devices setup to set spec on axle for caster. then with welds cut and broken free thay pumped the jack up and set the pinion angle desired.
then when all set and verified it was welded back up.
but dont forget the tubes are press fit tight to the inner "c" s and welded. so its a bit of a job.
thay had some measuring devices setup to set spec on axle for caster. then with welds cut and broken free thay pumped the jack up and set the pinion angle desired.
then when all set and verified it was welded back up.
but dont forget the tubes are press fit tight to the inner "c" s and welded. so its a bit of a job.
