I've been searching and thought I had it all figurered out. I wanted longer 9/16 studs for the swap, and to help facilitate running aluminum H2 wheels. Shakerbuilt's site says studs from a dually 14 bolt will work. So I found Dorman p/n 610-194 from www.rockauto.com listed as a 1985 rear stud for a DRW axle. I got them today; the knurled area is too small and drops sloppily into the rotors (p/n 5014, raybestos for a 76 K2500) and the shoulder or flange is far too fat. So obviously *any* dually stud won't work. Does ANYONE actually have the p/n for the proper stud for this application? thanks.
CK5
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ANOTHER 14FF Disc swap question: Stud part #
- Thread starter alaskatoy
- Start date
OK; can anyone tell me how the thickness of the stock drum is where the studs pass through?? The rotors I have are 1cm thick. If the drum is the same or thicker, I can live without new studs. If the drum is less than 1cm, new studs are mandatory.
i just swaped in rotors from a 76-78 ish front 3/4 ton in my disk swap. i used the dulley studs. my rotors didnt center with the studs and i have over 5k miles on them now with no problems or vibrations.
some rotors are cut with a relefe and some are flat. you might need to grind down the head of the stud just a bit to let it seat in the flat spot in the rotor.
some rotors are cut with a relefe and some are flat. you might need to grind down the head of the stud just a bit to let it seat in the flat spot in the rotor.
55Willy
3/4 ton status
of the 5 axels I have swapped to disc I used the front studs on the rear.
55Willy
3/4 ton status
78 2500 burb since that was what my axels were. basicly I run 32 of the same studs on my rig.
studs need to be 3" min. K20/25 front studs are all too short.
k20/25 rotors are designed to run hub-centric on the back of the k20/25 hubs; so stud hole size on the rotors is not a big issue. The 14 bolt drums have a much smaller center bore than the K20/25 rotors do, so the rotors CANNOT seat hub-centrically on the back of the 14 bolt hubs. SO the best hope is that they can be staked lug-centrically to the hubs. The problem is the stud holes in the rotors are about .630ish". The commonly recommended dually studs are only .620-.622 - they are sloppy in the rotor holes. This means the rotor may not center on the hub. Not to mention grinding the heads on 32 studs sucks. I finally sourced a stud for a ford application that come closest to meeting all the needs of the above. Dorman 610-301 is 9/16-18, 3-1/4" long with a .622 knurl, but necks up just before the head. The portion that necks up seats in the rotor MUCH better; not a press fit, but not sloppy like the regular dually recommendations like 610-189 and 610-194. Plus the 610-301 head size fits into the relief in the rotors and requires no grinding. $1.99 at autozone, $2.48 at Advance, and $3.49 at Napa. Pix later. HTH someone someday.
k20/25 rotors are designed to run hub-centric on the back of the k20/25 hubs; so stud hole size on the rotors is not a big issue. The 14 bolt drums have a much smaller center bore than the K20/25 rotors do, so the rotors CANNOT seat hub-centrically on the back of the 14 bolt hubs. SO the best hope is that they can be staked lug-centrically to the hubs. The problem is the stud holes in the rotors are about .630ish". The commonly recommended dually studs are only .620-.622 - they are sloppy in the rotor holes. This means the rotor may not center on the hub. Not to mention grinding the heads on 32 studs sucks. I finally sourced a stud for a ford application that come closest to meeting all the needs of the above. Dorman 610-301 is 9/16-18, 3-1/4" long with a .622 knurl, but necks up just before the head. The portion that necks up seats in the rotor MUCH better; not a press fit, but not sloppy like the regular dually recommendations like 610-189 and 610-194. Plus the 610-301 head size fits into the relief in the rotors and requires no grinding. $1.99 at autozone, $2.48 at Advance, and $3.49 at Napa. Pix later. HTH someone someday.
55Willy
3/4 ton status
so technicly my rotor should pull right off of the studs? (.622 vs .630) cause they don't. I have had to pound all 64 studs in (4 axles)
what rotor you using???
what rotor you using???
ok so have anyone decided which stud is the best here? Get the long one with large head and turn it down or the small head? I used to have a thread from pirate bookmarked but lost it and now I need to get studs this week and can't find the info I was lookin for.
The middle 1 looks like the right part.....I used my old studs from the drums, I was careful when I smacked them out, then I used a thread chaser on each stud and they were like new.MNorby said:
Not entirely sure what the problem is. As far as I know there are only two studs that work for the 14BFF. SRW and DRW. The studs are not supposed to be a tight fit to the rotor.
As far as the head being too large, sounds like the rotor is wrong or the stud is wrong. There should be a recess on the backside of the rotor for the head of the stud to drop into. Its approx. 1/4" bigger diameter relief than the head of the stud when using the factory studs or the factory DRW studs. I'm running the SRW studs that were in my axle when I acquired it. I believe Stomper is running the DRW studs. Most probably using the studs they knocked out when doing the swap.
As far as the head being too large, sounds like the rotor is wrong or the stud is wrong. There should be a recess on the backside of the rotor for the head of the stud to drop into. Its approx. 1/4" bigger diameter relief than the head of the stud when using the factory studs or the factory DRW studs. I'm running the SRW studs that were in my axle when I acquired it. I believe Stomper is running the DRW studs. Most probably using the studs they knocked out when doing the swap.
I currently have the stock drum studs in mine but there is only maybe an inch if that pokin through which worked with the steel wheels but isn't with the aluminums. I may knock one out and turn the head down so it fall into the reliefe but I dunno if I will gain enough
MNorby said:
I'd have to say probably go with the DRW studs. They are the same in the spline length and shoulder size and all that. Just way longer thread. 4" something like that.
Can you shoot a photo of the back of your rotor with a stud sitting in the hole? like the photo that was posted earlier in this thread?
yeah I'll try to get one tomarrow. I put the axles in the 71 today but I'll try to see if I can get a clean shot of it. Another local guy took his studs (metric ones so he could use special slined lug nuts for his deep holes alumin wheels) and had the heads turned down to fit in the relief. I think I could stuck a stud in the drill press and spin it and lightly grind the head down (insert redneck lathe)
Stomper said:
at that point I hope my bling chrome lug nuts wouldn't bottom out. They are like 3" long. The ones you use look like the center ones in that pic above?
