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another axel 6 to 8 question, doing this tommarow

S

supersize75

1/2 ton status
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gilbert az......by Phoenix
I still need to get the part numbers for the...

d44 3/4 ton bearings/races

seals for the axel shafts

and what grease do ya recomend or brand


please /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif or my tuck is going to be stuck like this..

7887rear_new-med.jpg


these 35 inch tires got to go! btw this looks really tall for an echo bit shackle flip and 3 inch body lift huh?
 
Just go to Autozone and ask for bearings and races for a 78 3/4 ton chevy. Inner and outer races & bearings, seals, etc. Or if you know what year your components are from then get the bearings from that. Autozone carries Timken bearings and races for a good price. Make sure to take your hub assemblies in with you when you go to get the races and such. I went to Napa and they gave me the wrong races for the outer bearings. They fit the upper part of the bore but it necks down to a tad smaller and they wouldn't fit. Autozone's races are about 1/2 the price of Napa. And they are timken.
 
thanks again harly, I tried to get them with out a specific year because I didn't know what year they were from, this will work, thanks for your /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
 
Also if you have your old races in your hubs you can use them to drive the new races in. This was the easiest I found. Drving them out is PITA. Also make sure to get new lug nuts & a few good grinding wheels for the calipers and backing plates if you are running 15" rims. I used Marine grease in my 8 lug conversion. I bought mine at Ace Hardware in a can. (like a peanut can). It is for boat trailer wheel bearings and such. I drove 1000 miles to Colorado on that grease with no breakdown that I can tell. I didn't have any hub problems with 500 miles per day nonstop use so I think it must be pretty good stuff.

I used one of the BIG Craftsman screwdrivers & a 2lbs sledge to get my races out. It is a PITA, but it worked. They say not to use steel on steel but I couldn't find brass punches that were long enough to get them out. Use your old bearings to drive in the new bearings and then drive them back out the same way. It worked fine for me.

Also right at the end when you are reinstalling the locking hub you might have to take a prybar or I use the big screwdriver to push the axleshafts back in (put the screwdriver in at the ujoint and pry them inward) to get the outer hub snapring back in its groove.

Handy tools for the job:

Snap ring plyers (axleshaft snap ring)
small screwdrivers or picks (outer hub snapring)

Needed tools:

Brake caliper allen head (for brake bolts)
Hub socket
obvious hand tools
 
I hate to do this but ...... For the grease I think you know what I will say... But some will say a water resistant grease and you can and it should work just fine. I feel that a Synthetic oil or grease is the only way to go.

Have fun doing the swap /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif


Eric
 
Valvoline marine grade grease is what I use on all my trucks I think the bearings and races are the same ????? as a halfton aren't they?????? Trucks looking good /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif why did he cut the axle in half like that?? seems kinda wasteful /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
 
You can take the rotors and see if they can be turned. If they can be then yes they are good. If they are to bad or warped then no. Also make sure you take those locking hubs off the old axle and use them for trail spares if they are in decent shape. Also you can salvage the outer axle shafts (stubs) for trail spares too.
 
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