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Another B52 swap post!

chevyfan77

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I've searched through here about the B52 swap. I have the springs and the B52 brackets. I'm just curious if there is a list of everything I need to complete this job and have my truck drivable. I've seen people say you have to have crossover steering, you need a drop pitman, etc... My question is, is there a list of all things needed to be purchased for the swap before I put my truck on jack stands and lift it. This way I won't have it sitting forever on the stands waiting on parts. Thanks.
:sign22:
 

nvrenuf

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Yes and no. There are a lot of variables that prevent a cut & dry list - Which 52's do you have (stock or lifted, leaf count, etc)? How much lift will you get? How hard will you push it with the 52's? Budget?

Crossover is recommended (but there are people that have done the swap with modified push/pull steering but it doesn't work right). Longer brake lines but there are no set part numbers. Some of the items like brake hoses and the driveshaft are best bought after you measure the amount of travel you gain from the swap.

Lots of folks will recommend the B52 swap but most do not give an accurate description of what may be required to get it driving again.
 

chevyfan77

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I've got the extended brake lines, I'm using stock K20 pickup 52 in springs, the lift I'm looking at is around 4 inches. As for pushing it, I'm starting basic and planning to improve/build on as I go... throughout years...
 

1977k5

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Are you moving the front axle forward?
 

chevyfan77

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At this time I was hoping not to move the axle much.
 

chevyfan77

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Mainly for the lift and added articulation. I'm not going for a hardcore crawler or anything, just something that can hit the trails and drive home or drive my son around our small town. eventually, as I get more money and knowledge, I'll begin to modify it and create a better crawler.
 

K85 Octane

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I think this is one of those modifications that folks can't pin point what needs to be done. Myself included.
It's a modification, not so much a "swap". A swap would be 10b to 14bff but even that comes with a whole list of weird issues folks can run into.
I have completely custom 52s up front, so I can't offer much advice because that might steer you the wrong way.
Right off the bat I can think of...
Shock lengths and mounting locations, or use regular 4" lift shocks for now
Brakelines. I use 12 lift lines from ORD front and rear
Longer shackles, make sure the bolt holes are right with the springs/bushings you are using
Try to use your stock spring plates and swaybar. I recommend sway bar end links for better movement, less binding.
If you don't have a raised axle side steering arm, you'll need one to continue rocking the stock steering. (also needed if swaybar is used)
Driveshaft, but that can wait
 

obijuank5

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I'm not going for a hardcore crawler or anything,

Then a nice set of 47s and boogie.
52s are for a dedicated rock crawler and the drawbacks outweigh the benefits for anything else.
These are off the shelf 120 dollar 47" springs.
Theres more to what i got but what im getting at is the spring length does not dictate offroad capability.

20170301_193927.jpg
 

K85 Octane

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Really nice, specifically built for you 47s will also ride better on the street without all the other needed “adjustments”. I’ve got nothing bad to say about my 52s, I can still get a speeding ticket on any road just fine, but most would freak out over the trucks handling.
 

mrk5

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I always thought we did the 52 spring swap because it was cheap, not necessarily better performance wise.
 

K85 Octane

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I did it cause they ride smooth and flex nicely.
But also, keep in mind, I already had all the needed modifications made before going 52s. Had all the set up with my 4"TCHD 47s (shocks, longer slip DS, brakelines, A-bomb front)
 

500$k5

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But that amount of stock flex is only achievable with a bad PS pump.
Tell him the truth, you never leave home without a broken one.
Power steering problems are definitely my nemesis. Some day I'll get some components that stay together. LOL
 

chevyfan77

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Already with you on that one! My power steering pump is constantly leaking and having issues. I always keep fluid in with the emergency kit!!!
 

Stephen

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I'd second the 47" lift spring idea. Pick your flavor but bolt something in and work on a part of the truck that will make a bigger difference offroad for the work you put in. "Flex" is cool and I'm a huge one to push for ride quality but really the best things to get you farther down the trail are lockers, steering and body protection. Obviously matching drivetrain strength and tires will factor in too but in our trucks those things are not that hard to deal with. Keep the tires mild and maybe do a 3/4T swap if it's not already and you're good to go.
 

muddermilitia

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If I wanted to move the front axle forward, I would be looking at 52s. If I wanted to keep the axle in the stock location or maybe just 1" forward, I would stick with the 47" factory length springs. But I would either get Tuff Country EZ ride or look into a custom spring pack from Offroad Design.

To get the most out of 52s, you need a long slip front drive shaft, long travel shocks, crossover steering, and extended brake lines probably longer than you think. My trail rig which had 52s and was about 5" lift in front, I think I ended up using brake lines for an 8" lifted truck.

Some of those things listed above you could get away with if you limit strapped your suspension to decrease some down travel. But at that point, why do 52s at all?
 
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