Another D60/14Bff thread

[SchnorrCS]

Ok...first off, I did search, but didn't get a really good answer.
Here's the question. 84 K5, 350/700r4/10b/10b. I am running 35's right now.
I got a line on a D60/14ff with an eaton locker. Already has crossover and is in great shape. But the rear end has a flange on the pinion shaft where a yoke is on mine. I'm assuming it's to run a CV at the rear end and trans case, but am not sure what else that flange could be. Should I change my driveshaft to flange style or change the rear to a yoke? How would I do that, and what do you think it will cost me?
Also, with about 4" lift should I even worry about my drive shaft length? Or is it time to lengthen? What if I get a driveshaft with the diffs and it has been lengthened for an 8" lift? Or does the length matter that much? And finally I have heard horror stories about the slip yoke in a 208. Is this going to compound my drive shaft issues? I know I should upgrade to a 205, but it's not in the cards right now.
I drive my truck on the street to work sometimes, but it's not a daily driver, and I like the rocks, probably will stick with 35s at least for a while.
What else can you guys tell me about this swap? Thanks for the help, it is greatly appriciated.
cS

Oh yea....14ff already has disc brakes too!! Do I need a proportioning valve or will my brake line from the 10 bolt rear work ok?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I got a line on a D60/14ff with an eaton locker.

That Eaton "locker" is a gov-lok and its not really a locker. Plus if you want to install a real locker, you will have to find an open carrier unless you spend the big $$ on an ARB (which also replaces the whole carrier).

But the rear end has a flange on the pinion shaft where a yoke is on mine. I'm assuming it's to run a CV at the rear end and trans case, but am not sure what else that flange could be. Should I change my driveshaft to flange style or change the rear to a yoke? How would I do that, and what do you think it will cost me?

Never heard of a flange yoke on a 14 bolt but I would probably keep it. The flange setup is superior to the strap/u-bolt business. You won't need to change your driveshaft, you'll just need to find the correct driveshaft side yoke for your size joint.

Also, with about 4" lift should I even worry about my drive shaft length? Or is it time to lengthen? What if I get a driveshaft with the diffs and it has been lengthened for an 8" lift? Or does the length matter that much?

There's no way to know for sure until you start putting everything together. GM used so many different driveshafts that nothing there is certain. Generally a 4" lift does not require and driveshaft changes.

And finally I have heard horror stories about the slip yoke in a 208. Is this going to compound my drive shaft issues? I know I should upgrade to a 205, but it's not in the cards right now.
I drive my truck on the street to work sometimes, but it's not a daily driver, and I like the rocks, probably will stick with 35s at least for a while.

The 208 is so-so, I know a few people who have broken a bunch of them. The slip yoke contributes to vibes and puts lots of extra stress on the t-case tail-housing on lifted trucks.

Oh yea....14ff already has disc brakes too!! Do I need a proportioning valve or will my brake line from the 10 bolt rear work ok?

The stock stuff worked perfect for me, it doesn't for some people. That's another one of those "try it and see" deals.

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Should I change my driveshaft to flange style or change the rear to a yoke? How would I do that, and what do you think it will cost me?

Not sure on whats the best, but you can pick up a new 1350 U-bolt style yoke (which is better) for about $100 and just swap it out.

What if I get a driveshaft with the diffs and it has been lengthened for an 8" lift? Or does the length matter that much?

If the driveshafts from the truck with the axles has the flange then picking it up and having it shortened to the correct length may be the easiest/cheapest route to go. A driveline for 8" of lift will be too long.

Also, with about 4" lift should I even worry about my drive shaft length?

No definite answer for this. Some people get away with stock length up to 6" and others have to change theirs after 4". Get the longer ones from the donor trucks and do what I said above about shortening.

And finally I have heard horror stories about the slip yoke in a 208. Is this going to compound my drive shaft issues?

No they aren't that bad they are just a weak link. It won't make your driveshaft issues any worse. I have a 241 with the slip yoke and have wheeled with it trouble free (except the seal leaks) for years. I still plan on a slip yoke eliminator to gain some driveshaft length.

Oh yea....14ff already has disc brakes too!! Do I need a proportioning valve or will my brake line from the 10 bolt rear work ok?

No definite answer here either. Different people get different results. Trial and Error.

What else can you guys tell me about this swap?

Click my build link in my sig. Scroll about half way down for my 60 and 14B rebuild. Search around here there is a plethora of info on this swap.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Not sure on whats the best, but you can pick up a new 1350 U-bolt style yoke (which is better) for about $100 and just swap it out.

You can't simply swap out the yokes; you have to replace the crush sleeve, pinion nut and reset the pinion bearing preload.

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Yeah I know

 

[SchnorrCS]

"Never heard of a flange yoke on a 14 bolt but I would probably keep it. The flange setup is superior to the strap/u-bolt business."


Do you know if there is an adaptor or something I can buy to put on my drive shaft to make it work with the flange?

 

[90'K5]

From HAD website. under the Toyota section..

HERE'S THE 14 BOLT FLANGE CUSTOM MADE ITS EXPENSIVE AND HAS LEAD TIME - COST IS 289.00$​

 

[MTBLAZER89]

"Never heard of a flange yoke on a 14 bolt but I would probably keep it. The flange setup is superior to the strap/u-bolt business."


Do you know if there is an adaptor or something I can buy to put on my drive shaft to make it work with the flange?

Why don't you get the shafts from the donor truck and keep the flange. Everybody keeps sayings its a better set up, ane as mentioned above if you swap yokes you are supposed to re set up the crush sleeve and pinion preload. Shortening the donor driveshaft would be much easier.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Do you know if there is an adaptor or something I can buy to put on my drive shaft to make it work with the flange?

The piece you need looks like this. You'll need to figure out which u-joint your driveshaft uses, who made that flange which pilot size and bolt pattern your flange has.

My guess is that high angle driveline made your flange and calling them will get you the info you need.