Another driveline issue

[morcav]

I'm really in a herd spot right now. I'm set to get out of the army in a month and I'm getting really bad vibes from the rear now. I have angled 4" blocks out back and they were pointing my pinion to far up so I flipped them around to point it down and it made it to where the driveshaft was at such an angle that it was hitting the u-joint bolts, so I flipped it back around and now my vibes are worse. I think if I shim it my driveshaft will be at to much of an angle and get to close to those u-joint bolts again. I really didn't think I was going to run in to this many problems with only a 4" lift and I have to drive this thing with the family 2600 miles 30 days from now. I've done searches and every one seems to be recommending shackle flip and a cv Drive shaft, is this the only way I will get rid of this and if I do it how hard will it be with basic tools and will it fix the problem?

 

[nm4x4]

If your pinion angle is already pointed straight the T-case output you can just order a CV driveshaft. With a CV driveshaft, the rear pinion should be pointed straight with no angle at the rear U-jount. I hope this makes sense to you!

 

[dhcomp]

I have no direct experience, but if the blocks are angled too much, keep the blocks angled that way and add some shims to reduce the pinion angle. People think the angle for ujoints is supposted to be none....thats incorrect. You want a similar angle at the top (xfer case) u joint as the bottom (axle). So it sounds like you tried the extremes with that block, try and use shims to get somethign in the middle.

 

[morcav]

It was somewhat of an extreme with the block but it brought it to 0* and I need it at 3 or 4* to match the TC accounting for axle wrap, and if it was hitting bolts at 0*, I think it might be to close at 3* not to mention the shaft itself will be at about 20 or 21*

 

[morcav]

If your pinion angle is already pointed straight the T-case output you can just order a CV driveshaft. With a CV driveshaft, the rear pinion should be pointed straight with no angle at the rear U-jount. I hope this makes sense to you!

It's not quite straight at the TC, but somewhat close but I understand what your saying I am just trying to get this finished without any more surprises

 

[George_Pimpdaddy]

honestly from what ive heard the shackle flips usually makes for no vibe..

 

[Cowboy_80]

I have no direct experience, but if the blocks are angled too much, keep the blocks angled that way and add some shims to reduce the pinion angle. People think the angle for ujoints is supposted to be none....thats incorrect. You want a similar angle at the top (xfer case) u joint as the bottom (axle). So it sounds like you tried the extremes with that block, try and use shims to get somethign in the middle.

That is correct if you don't have a cv joint. With the cv joint the picture is correct. But yes, it sounds like shims are needed. If the angle is similar to the picture, go to the jy and grab the yokes for a cv setup. I think you'd be happier with that. If the angle is wrong for either one, shim it to be right with your current setup. I understand how time is short when you're getting out, so shims could be the quickest way, if not the best.

 

[morcav]

That is correct if you don't have a cv joint. With the cv joint the picture is correct. But yes, it sounds like shims are needed. If the angle is similar to the picture, go to the jy and grab the yokes for a cv setup. I think you'd be happier with that. If the angle is wrong for either one, shim it to be right with your current setup. I understand how time is short when you're getting out, so shims could be the quickest way, if not the best.

Can you just go to the JY and get a CV I thought they had to be custom made?

 

[Cowboy_80]

Can you just go to the JY and get a CV I thought they had to be custom made?

It'll be fine if you find one with your drivetrain. If not, then you take the yokes to a drive shaft shop and have them weld some tube on for you. They just need measurements. The yokes are the $$ part though, so if you ever go somewhere, bring your own in. For the measurement you would bolt the cv part in, then measure from the center of the outermost joint to the center of the joint on the pinion.

 

[nm4x4]

If he has a 91 K5 he has a 241 with a slip yoke. He will probably need to get one custom made because those are rare to find in a JY.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

How about blocks that aren't angled (or get rid of the blocks and get the rear lift some other way)?

 

[morcav]

How about blocks that aren't angled (or get rid of the blocks and get the rear lift some other way)?

I think I'm gonna order a custom driveline and possibly get the shackle flip, but it seems that the driveline will be money well spent, how much do you guys think I'm looking at spending and if I do the shackle flip, do I need anything else besides the kit from ORD? Thanks guys!

 

[nm4x4]

You should'nt need anything else except for maybe some shims still! Make sure you do the shackle flip first and get your pinion angle right; then measure for a new driveshaft!

 

[obijuan]

you can get the cv stuff from an old caddy with a th 400 trans, then cut to fit.

 

[SnackPack]

ORD's new u-bolts are also a good deal, $40/pair. You'll need those if you're taking out the blocks.