Another shock question, and a poll to boot...

[spearchucker]

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Question on the 5150's, will the reservoir cause any problems by hitting the top of the shock tower?

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They won't hit. The upper mounting point on the 5150 as adjustable so you can rotate it to mount in the position you need. I don't have them mounted yet but I'll post a pic later showing how they tuck inside the tower.

 

[Desert Rat]

Great, can't wait to see it.

 

[84gmcjimmy]

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BTW i got them from Jack it They were the cheapest I could find at $72 a piece.

Nick

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Yikes, the shocks there that I want are around 250-300 a piece /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

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the edelbrock adjustable shocks look like they run very well.my next set will be these.comparably price wise not bad either.

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The edelbrock shocks are just as worthless as any other twin tube in my opinion.

 

[spearchucker]

Here you go /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
You can't see it in this pic, but like I mentioned earlier the upper mount just screws into the housing and is held into place with a jam nut. There's about 3/4" on either side of the shock and the tower so clearance isn't an issue. You may notice that the bottom part of the shock is sticking up, but that's just from the angled part of the tower, if that part of the tower wasn't there it'd tuck all the way inside the tower.
There are a couple other pictures in my album but they didn't turn out so well. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Jonny-K5]

i know everyone is saying twin tubes suck and i agree, but arent the pro comp MX6's mono tubes?

 

[84gmcjimmy]

yup!

 

[Desert Rat]

Looks good. Jackit.com is going to run me $424 shipped. Shockware.com would be $396. That is for the 5150 series BF5-A198-H1 with 255/70 valving.

 

[spearchucker]

I went with the 255/70 for the front and 170/60 for the rear since it is lighter.

 

[Desert Rat]

Lastly, did you center your shocks as the tech article recommends or is a certain resident expert correct by saying:

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Measure. If your spring plate is 6" from the bumpstop, you need 6" of up travel and you can use the rest for down travel.

I add a 1/2" for safety.

Definitely don't just center your shock for travel--measure to see how much up travel you will require.


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[ntsqd]

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I went with the 255/70 for the front and 170/60 for the rear since it is lighter.

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I think you're going to want the 255/70 valving in the rear too. Usually the 170/60 valving is used for double damper applications. Or you can buy another pair of 170/60's and put duals up front.

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Lastly, did you center your shocks as the tech article recommends or is a certain resident expert correct by saying:

[ QUOTE ]
Measure. If your spring plate is 6" from the bumpstop, you need 6" of up travel and you can use the rest for down travel.

I add a 1/2" for safety.

Definitely don't just center your shock for travel--measure to see how much up travel you will require.


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Buy a damper longer than the suspension will cycle AT the damper mounts, and set the mounts so that at the most extreme crossed up you can't bottom the damper. I normally measure up travel to be from the plate to halfway thru the bumpstop, and add 1/2" to 3/4" to that for safety. If the damper mount is right next to the bumpstop contact point then you can err on the low side of that range. The further out the lower mount is the more distance you need to add in.

 

[wfo163]

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whether or not taking the swaybar off is a problem for asphalt driving. Some say they didn't notice a difference, others say they wish they still had it on.

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I dont wish I had left it on but I do notice the difference. Feels like driving a boat through hard turns, meening it falls noticeably but not dangerously to the sides. I kinda like the look on peoples faces when I come banking into a parking lot at 40 mph /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
I am going to go to Bilsteins very soon. I totally dislike my RS5000's

 

[spearchucker]

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I think you're going to want the 255/70 valving in the rear too. Usually the 170/60 valving is used for double damper applications. Or you can buy another pair of 170/60's and put duals up front.

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Maybe, well see. But I went through this valving discussion some time ago with weight vs. valving and that's how I came up with this. If it's wrong then I'll just get another pair, it'll only be 2 bills. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif But they'll sure be an improvement for the non-existent shocks that were there before.

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I normally measure up travel to be from the plate to halfway thru the bumpstop, and add 1/2" to 3/4" to that for safety.

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That sounds like a much better way than the 1/2" past the bumpstop. Think about it, if you bottom out really hard the bumpstop will compress quite a bit. Also, in order to use this method it assumes that you relocated your bumpstops if you have a lift. Most people here say that cycling the suspension is the best way to determine shock location. To a point I agree but there has to be a better and easier way. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[Desert Rat]

Went with the 14" travel 5150's from Shockwarehouse.com. Ran me under 4 bills with shipping. I need to replace my bumpstops up front. I was going to go with those 4 inch tall polyurethane ones that I think both Energey Suspension and Daystar sell for the front, and not sure on the back.