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Another slider idea,

63chevyll

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So while attempting to strengthen the frame without a complete box I thought of this idea for my suburban sliders. Hope it makes sense

Sorry for the cad files, I had to use sharpie engineering
 
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So while attempting to strengthen the frame without a complete box I thought of this idea for my suburban sliders. Hope it makes sense

Sorry for the cad files, I had to use sharpie engineering

Nope.
If you were trying to reinforce the frame, putting a hole through it is not the way.:dunno:
 
My last K5 was similar except just welded to the frame...no holes through it. It was also welded to the rocker panel
 
My last K5 was similar except just welded to the frame...no holes through it. It was also welded to the rocker panel

Yeah welded to the frame is ok although I prefer bolted to the frame.
I made a setup that bolts to the frame and doesn't even have hole drilled throught the frame to bolt it on. :thumb:
It slides on from the bottom, and then bolts go on the top of the frame.
 
With the slider tube as far away from the frame as it will be, alot of leverage will be created.
 
Yeah welded to the frame is ok although I prefer bolted to the frame.
I made a setup that bolts to the frame and doesn't even have hole drilled throught the frame to bolt it on. :thumb:
It slides on from the bottom, and then bolts go on the top of the frame.

Got any pics of that setup?
 
Nope.
If you were trying to reinforce the frame, putting a hole through it is not the way.:dunno:

Even though it will be welded around the hole?

My thought would be instead of welding just to outside edge, it would spread the load to more places
 
Oh and by the way Kert, thanks for the hook up with the shackles.
I've been meaning to get back with you on that.
 
you could achieve the same support by welding to the outside, than putting a short spacer on the inside... that's how i thought it was till you mentioned cutting the frame.. plus it would be easier..
 
I hear ya, but aren't all sliders far away from frame, making a lot of leverage on the mounting spots?

If they are mounted to the frame then I would say yes. Alot of sliders are not mounted to the frame but the body. There are structural components on the body that do a fantastic job of supporting the slider and much more. Then again, i've seen some sliders mounted to both which eliminates the leverage issue but raises other concerns depending on how its done. Most of us of course have a flexible mount between the body and frame allowing them to move seperately from each other. Tying them together with something like a slider can cause other issues unless there is an isolation built in.

Oh and by the way Kert, thanks for the hook up with the shackles.
I've been meaning to get back with you on that.

:thumb:
 
Yeah I hate body flex, maybe I will make some solid body mounts 1st. Long term may be a cage,

I'll like into the idea of going just to the body I just haven't seen many I'm.person to understand how they mount.
 
Even though it will be welded around the hole?

My thought would be instead of welding just to outside edge, it would spread the load to more places

The C Channel fore and aft of where your slider would mount is roughly the same dimensions as where the slider would mount. At the point where your plating stopped, you'd have the original stock dimensions of the rail, with the same torque from the slider, so you'd have the same stress points as you would with no plating, they'd just be moved horizontally down the frame rail.

If you really want to do a frame mounted slider, make the belly pan for your tranny/tcase mount to the top and bottom of the frame rail. That way any torque down the length of the rail will be fought in tension/compression by your belly pan/crossmember, and ultimately the opposite frame rail (which due to being a couple feet away, has very good leverage to resist deformation).

Like most guys around here, mine are just welded to the bottom of my A and B pillars. They are very good in vertical compression that way. The design somewhat concerned me with the horizontal strength such as sliding sideways in to a rock, so I gave the floorboard more dimension to prevent buckling by welding some tube under the seats and to the slider tube. I also beefed up the firewall body mount with that, and gave myself a good place to mount seats to when I start doing a cage and run the tube across the floor of the cab. My plan to deal with the flimsy frame on these trucks is to slowly increase the rigidity of the frame and body together with stuff like this, and eventually solid mount the body when I am confident that the frame has significantly low enough deflection to not have to worry about the body mounts falling apart. Then, I will probably put runners from the rail to the slider and stuff like that the spread force out over more than just the few body mount bolts.
 
Very good points. do you have any pictures of how you beefed up the firewall mount.

I'm not against running the slider along the body and welding to body only, but trying to see both sides. Also, I know its been beaten to death around here but the searches don't yield what I'm looking for.
 
Very good points. do you have any pictures of how you beefed up the firewall mount.

I'm not against running the slider along the body and welding to body only, but trying to see both sides. Also, I know its been beaten to death around here but the searches don't yield what I'm looking for.

I just cut it open and hammered 2x2x.120 in to it. It did reduce the vertical dimension at the outside, but the highest bending stress is inboard anyway in a rollover. Its also not going to be all dented and smashed anymore, and I plan to mount the cage above the slider, so that there will be little bending moment at the intersection anyway. Basically, my plan is to essentially widen the dimensions of the frame so that the structure has more leverage against the forces that the leaf spring mounting uses to twist the frame rails.
 
Nope.
If you were trying to reinforce the frame, putting a hole through it is not the way.:dunno:
If the frame is boxed, it would pick up strength from a piece of tubing passing through and welded to both sides. Yes, there is a lot of leverage from tieing sliders to the frame, but this approach does make things better than just welding tubes to the outside of the C-channel. Even when you look at the bending force that the slider wants to put on the frame, both the boxing and the tube through the middle help. The longer the boxed section is, the more torsional resistance the frame will have.

But as has already been said, the real question is whether or not sliders should tie all the way back to the frame. This would work better on later model trucks where the frame rails are spaced further apart. Now if your tube could pass all the way through BOTH frame rails you would really have something.
 
If the frame is boxed, it would pick up strength from a piece of tubing passing through and welded to both sides. Yes, there is a lot of leverage from tieing sliders to the frame, but this approach does make things better than just welding tubes to the outside of the C-channel. Even when you look at the bending force that the slider wants to put on the frame, both the boxing and the tube through the middle help. The longer the boxed section is, the more torsional resistance the frame will have.

But as has already been said, the real question is whether or not sliders should tie all the way back to the frame. This would work better on later model trucks where the frame rails are spaced further apart. Now if your tube could pass all the way through BOTH frame rails you would really have something.
Well on my next wheeler I am putting bars all the way accross over the frame for best performance.:thumb:
 

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