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Another welder Buying Decision thread

gotblazers

gotblazers

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My grandpa lets me use his 220 or 225 volt (i forget which) lincoln arc welder whenever i want so heavy **** is no issue but its a monster of a machine and no good for taking on the trail or using on body work which as you guys have seen from my build threads i have some to do. So i was looking at mig welders at sears to keep things local and i found a few options that seem pretty good to me so i was hoping to get some opinions from people with knowledge and experience with welders.

1.http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00920568000P?prdNo=5
My top choice because it needs no gas so i could take it on the trail pretty easy although im worried it would be no good for the body work on my trucks (73 k5,76 k5,84 Burb) due to a minimum of 18 gauge. But the 3/16th max should work for trail fixes which from what ive heard since sadly ive had nothing break (despite my best efforts) consist of cracked leaf springs,frame cracks,studs and whatever else gets thrown at me.

2.http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00982888000P?prdNo=14
i chose this 2nd because it has a minimum of 24 gauge which is cool enough for body work and has a 3/16 max like the first but it requires gas.

3.http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00920580000P?prdNo=2
It has a 24 gauge minimum like the Hausfeld but only a 1/8 max and requires gas but its got the lincoln brand name.
 
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It looks like all three welders can weld with flux core shielded wire so none of them have to use gas. I recommend saving another couple of hundred $ or more and buy one that can weld at least 1/4" .

Just make sure whatever you buy has a selectable heat settings (Not just a high / low) and an infinite wire speed adjustment knob. Duty cycle is the other thing to look at. A 20% duty cycle means you can weld for 2 minutes out of 10 minutes before it overheats. Shouldn't be a big deal if you don't weld a ton of stuff all the time. Also get a GOOD auto darkening helmet. Save your eyesight and a good helmet makes welding so much easier to see what you are doing.
When you say "on the trail" do you mean "ON the trail" like pop the hood and run an inverter from your battery? If so, I think an inverter that goes from 12volt DC to a 20 AMP AC will cost you a bazillion dollars.

I have been using my little Lincoln 3200 for 6 years and weld everything from very very thin Suzuki Samurai sheet metal up to 1/4" all the time. I have welded some heavier stuff as well and just made several passes. it seems to be holding although I know I didn't get the penetration as good as I wanted.. I think I paid $569 for it. I have made that money back a million times over welding my own junk than having a shop do it for me. I have had it stop working twice (definitely not the overheat auto shut down or blown breaker issue) and have had to take it to a shop. But of course it worked fine when I carry it in.

I don't know about the brand on number 2 so can't help you on brand name quality but from I did a quick google search on it seems to be a decent brand and is made in America; at least that is what I have read...no personal experience welding with it.
 
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Alright firstly IMO your wasting your time trying to find one machine to use on the trail and for body work. Thats like the two opposite ends of the spectrum lol.

Secondly for body work your going to want the thinnest solid core wire (.23 is most common) with gas.

Fluxcore while has its purposes (god knows I've used it for EVERYTHING for the last 4 years) its sloppier and more prone to blow through work. Plus I dont think anyone makes .23 fluxcore wire. The reason I mention this is because a cylinder of gas is just one more thing to secure and transport on the trail.

What I would recommend is you stick to your grandpas machine for heavy bench work, set your truck up with an alternator converted to a stick machine (theres a write up on the board), and pick up a hobart 110v with gas for body work and light bench stuff.
 
hughmungas said:
It looks like all three welders can weld with flux core shielded wire so none of them have to use gas. I recommend saving another couple of hundred $ or more and buy one that can weld at least 1/4" .
The Lincoln Arc my grandpa has will do 1/4 and likely more, this is for lighter bodywork purposes and i thought maybe some trail work but thats optional. Is there a certain reason you recommend a heavier mig instead of using the Arc for my deep penetration purposes.

Just make sure whatever you buy has a selectable heat settings (Not just a high / low) and an infinite wire speed adjustment knob. Duty cycle is the other thing to look at. A 20% duty cycle means you can weld for 2 minutes out of 10 minutes before it overheats. Shouldn't be a big deal if you don't weld a ton of stuff all the time. Also get a GOOD auto darkening helmet. Save your eyesight and a good helmet makes welding so much easier to see what you are doing.
Looks like the #1 craftsman has 10 heat settings and the other two only have 4 so that also makes it attractive i never thought about that.

When you say "on the trail" do you mean "ON the trail" like pop the hood and run an inverter from your battery? If so, I think an inverter that goes from 12volt DC to a 20 AMP AC will cost you a bazillion dollars.
Noo, When my suburban tow rig gets prepared and i have a trailer as well as a trail rig to tow (in 20 years :doah:) Im going to put a generator,Air compressor and a welder in the back of the burb where the 2nd row bench seating currently sits. So i would use the generator to power the welder/compressor as needed ideally. I Was hoping the body work welder i need would also work as a small portable low power welder i can take on the trail and use out of the back of the tow rig.

I have been using my little Lincoln 3200 for 6 years and weld everything from very very thin Suzuki Samurai sheet metal up to 1/4" all the time. I have welded some heavier stuff as well and just made several passes. it seems to be holding although I know I didn't get the penetration as good as I wanted.. I think I paid $569 for it. I have made that money back a million times over welding my own junk than having a shop do it for me. I have had it stop working twice (definitely not the overheat auto shut down or blown breaker issue) and have had to take it to a shop. But of course it worked fine when I carry it in.
I couldnt find anyone selling the lincoln 3200 anymore but it sounds like a great welder.

I don't know about the brand on number 2 so can't help you on brand name quality but from I did a quick google search on it seems to be a decent brand and is made in America; at least that is what I have read...no personal experience welding with it.
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Stomis said:
Alright firstly IMO your wasting your time trying to find one machine to use on the trail and for body work. Thats like the two opposite ends of the spectrum lol.
Its mainly for body work but its also going to be small and portable so i figure having a small weak welder on the trail is better than none.

Secondly for body work your going to want the thinnest solid core wire (.23 is most common) with gas.

Fluxcore while has its purposes (god knows I've used it for EVERYTHING for the last 4 years) its sloppier and more prone to blow through work. Plus I dont think anyone makes .23 fluxcore wire. The reason I mention this is because a cylinder of gas is just one more thing to secure and transport on the trail.

What I would recommend is you stick to your grandpas machine for heavy bench work, set your truck up with an alternator converted to a stick machine (theres a write up on the board), and pick up a hobart 110v with gas for body work and light bench stuff.
Not a fan of the alternator set up because its powered by rpms and all my motors are low rpms but i may put that on the wheeler rig as a last resort. I want an actual welder to put in the tow rig though and to do body work at home with. Nothing fancy just patch work.
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I dont see any Hobart 110s on google,sears,home depot,e-bay,welding depot. If im going to power it via generator out of the tow rig would that change your opinion at all? Its not going to be sitting in the wheeler while im wheeling most the time. The air compressor/generator/welder will spend most there time in the back of the tow rig.
 
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I have el zippo experience arc welding so I am totally unqualified to answer any pro or con of a MIG vs ARC welding. My thought process for having a higher end Mig/Flux welder that can weld 1/4" is that you just need one welder to do all of your fabbing on your rig.
With all that said, now I want to go out and buy myself an arc welder and learn how to use one.
 
hughmungas said:
I have el zippo experience arc welding so I am totally unqualified to answer any pro or con of a MIG vs ARC welding. My thought process for having a higher end Mig/Flux welder that can weld 1/4" is that you just need one welder to do all of your fabbing on your rig.
With all that said, now I want to go out and buy myself an arc welder and learn how to use one.
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I love my grandpas arc welder so far its the only welder ive used so i dont really know what anything else feels like, But it goes through THICK STEEL like nothing if your lacking penetration.

Lot of good info so far, really appreciate it guys. More input is always accepted though since im not even finished paying off the credit card cash advance i took for the suburban that made it home and took a **** in my driveway :doah:
 
Check out northern tool online. They always sen me emails for hobarts on sale with free freight. For a 140 with helmet and basic kit it was like just under $500. And would do up to 1/4". An had setup to run gas or flux core.
Another thing to look at is a battery powered welder. My buddy has one that has a small spool gun that has terminal clamps. He hooks up to his optimas and can weld. Dont remember the thickness capability tho. If you get a better mig you can turn it down far enough to do body work. Just remember that is going to be more bout technique then bout the tool.


Oh ya. Don't skimp on the ole noggin protection.
 
thats actually the exact welder i was talking bout above. thats what i plan on getting, or atleast i was going to til my dad decided to give me his.
 
Smokinthehippies said:
Check out northern tool online. They always sen me emails for hobarts on sale with free freight. For a 140 with helmet and basic kit it was like just under $500. And would do up to 1/4". An had setup to run gas or flux core.
Another thing to look at is a battery powered welder. My buddy has one that has a small spool gun that has terminal clamps. He hooks up to his optimas and can weld. Dont remember the thickness capability tho. If you get a better mig you can turn it down far enough to do body work. Just remember that is going to be more bout technique then bout the tool.


Oh ya. Don't skimp on the ole noggin protection.
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Stomis said:
I meant 110v not amps. Heres mine I love it.

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500500-Handler-115-Volt-Single-Phase/dp/B0002PS7SA
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That looks perfect
1.It can use gas or flux core wire by the looks of it so i might not even need to borrow my grandpas arc for the heavy stuff.

2.it goes as thin as 24 gauge and as thick as 1/4 :eek1:. Never thought id see a mig under 1000 bucks go that thick.

3.And according to both of you guys its very durable which is also important.

Looks like thats definitley the best deal although its almost 200 bucks over what my total budget was :doah: so ill pay off the credit card and see if theres any better deals on it on-line around T-DAY.
 
as someone who has migged a ton of body panels.... get gas if at all possible.... tho definitely doable, fluxcore on sheetmetal sucks....
 
ryoken said:
as someone who has migged a ton of body panels.... get gas if at all possible.... tho definitely doable, fluxcore on sheetmetal sucks....
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The recommended hobart is also gas compatible by the looks of it. I think i may be goin for that one.
 
I have a Lincoln 3200HD. Got it from Home Depot. Had it for about 4 years now. I think they quit selling them. have you check craigslist and flea-bay. Might be able to find a used welder cheap.
 
bronc3buster842001 said:
I have a Lincoln 3200HD. Got it from Home Depot. Had it for about 4 years now. I think they quit selling them. have you check craigslist and flea-bay. Might be able to find a used welder cheap.
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bronc3buster842001 said:
have you looked at this one.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_2961-1703-K2479-1_4294857445_4294937087_?productId=1082349&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&pl=1&currentURL=/pl_Welding%2BTorches_4294857445_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1
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Thanks for lookin for me man, Although my issue with that is many reviews say
1.it lacks heat settings for thinner metal
2.it doesnt come with a mig set up just fluxcore only which many others have said is no good for sheet metal.

Although i like it alot because its very portable and i can take it wherever i go.

But the goal of getting the second welder is to be able to operate with the thinner metals, The ability to penetrate deeper is a nice thing to have but not my primary concern here since the 225 Stick welder covers all my thick steel needs.
 
Sign up for a few online tool places mailing list. Like I said northern tool sends me coupons and free shipping codes about once every two three days. Maybe check out some other places also for online sales.
 
Well then it looks like im down to these 2 welders

They both can weld a min. 24 gauge and max 1/4''.

1.-469.00
http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500500-Handler-115-Volt-Single-Phase/dp/B0002PS7SA
The hobart is 12lbs heavier and includes a regulator for the price,but needs a special power source.

2.-419.00
http://www.lowes.com/pd_2961-1703-K...-_-shopzilla-_-09152010-_-Pro Core 125 Welder
The Lincoln can run on a household 120v which is a major plus although it needs a special self shielding wire from lincoln to reach the 1/4 capacity according to the lowes AD but it is cheaper and has the lincoln name and lowes is local to me. This may be the good deal since a regulator is only like 40-50 bucks, Is anything but a regulator needed for mig capabilities.
 
The hose that the wire comes thru has to be for gas use also. so yes a machine thats not for gas needs more than just a regulator to run gas.

i still haven't got a mig. for 20+ yrs i have arc welded & i use my tig on really thin stuff. i have used my arc turned down and fed tig rod w/other hand on thin stuff when i'm out of tri mix or co2 for the tig. i like tig on sheetmetel b/c there is no garbage/splatter in a tig weld to grind out afterwards..
 
blazin_blazer said:
The hose that the wire comes thru has to be for gas use also. so yes a machine thats not for gas needs more than just a regulator to run gas.

i still haven't got a mig. for 20+ yrs i have arc welded & i use my tig on really thin stuff. i have used my arc turned down and fed tig rod w/other hand on thin stuff when i'm out of tri mix or co2 for the tig. i like tig on sheetmetel b/c there is no garbage/splatter in a tig weld to grind out afterwards..
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I probably should have figured the gas wouldnt magically appear at the weld point :doah::haha:.

So i'll spend less now for the lincoln but if i want to use gas at some point ill end up paying more than the other one that includes it. Although i dont plan on doing alot of sheetmetal anyways just the bare minimum required to make my truck's not look like swiss cheese :whistle:.
 
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