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Anti Freeze PH level, pitting thru cylinders?

uglytruk

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IN A JUNKYARD, UNDER A TRUCK*N E Rust Belt
I just came from the machine shop that's gonna re-build a 6.5 for my '87 'Burb. He had a John Deere industrial engine. The cylinder liners were pitted right thru! The high compression causes a chemical reaction that eats right thru the heavy, good quality steel. Pix to follow.
Truckers check the PH level of the coolant to minimize this effect. What should I look for on the 6.2-6.5?
Anybody ever see this phoenomina on a "fixed sleeve" block?
 
uglytruk said:
I just came from the machine shop that's gonna re-build a 6.5 for my '87 'Burb. He had a John Deere industrial engine. The cylinder liners were pitted right thru! The high compression causes a chemical reaction that eats right thru the heavy, good quality steel. Pix to follow.
Truckers check the PH level of the coolant to minimize this effect. What should I look for on the 6.2-6.5?
Anybody ever see this phoenomina on a "fixed sleeve" block?

I don't think we have sleeves, it's all cast and machined.
I have never seen this go thru our blocks but I use the havoline GM (orange) fluid, it has no problems, and it's recomended for 5 year intervals.
:D
 
uglytruk said:
I usually get "used" antifr from the local shop. too many vehicles to buy new... nice, huh?

Well you are supposed to change it because the PH level gets too corrosive. :D
So you are making sure it's corrosive before you put it in your truck?
It's not that expensive to put it once every five years.
I buy it at your favorite place: Walmart :D
 
YOU know why I do it! I've got a dozen or so vehicles on the road... It really got going when I bought a Detroit Diesel from SF with no antifreeze, just rusty water. Didn't have $30 or so $$$, and it was already well below freezing, and I justified by not wantin to put fresh AF in a rusty block. So free slime at the local tire shop..... Let it sit 6 months, and the silt settles out... but at least I should check the PH... already have enough rust holes...

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