ANti-lock and bleeding

[ftn96]

Is it neccesary to dis-connect the battery when bleeding brakes with anti-lock? I've heard that you have to reset the computer so the anti-lock crap wont effect the bleeding or the proper operation of the brakes after bleeding. Just curious.

Will work for beer, parts and tools.
90 Jimmy 350TBI-700R4-241-33" BFGs-10 bolts w/4.10's
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[Triaged]

I believe you do have to disconnect the batt. when you bleed. Also with the engine off and the batt. disconnected pump the brake a dozen or more times. The anti-lock brake system has a high-pressure reservoir in it and if you crack the bleeder it could spray high press. brake fluid at you. Also make sure to ware safety glasses (brake fluid sucks when it gets in your eyes).

'71 Blazer CST with alot of rust

 

[ftn96]

Ok, I've got the brakes bled. Now the pedal feels great. But I still have a strong pull or tracking action to the right. IT doesn't feel like the brakes are causing the wheels to turn, but it feels more like the whole front end is shifting to the right causing me to counter steer to the left under hard braking. I've read several post on this before but I cant seem to find them this morning. Any ideas? I got good fluid to both sides no air in the lines, with good solid pressure.

Will work for beer, parts and tools.
90 Jimmy 350TBI-700R4-241-33" BFGs-10 bolts w/4.10's
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>

 

[RLBstein]

It could be just an alignment problem, have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth and look at all your tie rods. If they move too much it can cause a pull to one side. My camaro had it bad and it also vibrated when I put the brakes on. Found both sides to be bad, replaced them, and it fixed both problems. On another note it could be a wheel bearing going bad. And even on one more note, after I bleed my blazers brakes, mine pulled real bad to the right, found out I had a sticking caliper. It ended up working itself out, I guess after two years of sitting, it just needed to be worked in.

85 Blazer on an 82 chassis, 6.2L Diesel, ORD flip, 35's with no cutting on a 4" lift.

 

[CaptCrunch]

Check your right side caliper. Is it hot? It is probably sticking and causing your pull. Also would pull off the caliper again and check the return. Most likely will need a new caliper on that side.

1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI

 

[DPI]

A collapsed brake line will also cause pulling.

 

[ftn96]

Ok, 1st: I ve replaced the wheel bearings, inner outer both sides, new spindles, new tie rods, new lift springs, with about 500 miles on them, new shocks, new tires, new rotors, and somethiong else I cant remember.
@nd, I honed the spacer sleeves on the caliper guide bolts. And greased them real good and check for slippage. All goood there. Brake pads are new. Here's the kicker **********
I repalced the brake lines with the skyjacker extended stainless brakes lines for a 4" lift. Ever since then have I noticed the pulling. However, when I rebuilt the rear end with a new R&P and carrier, I had the brake line off back there. NOT PLUGED&lt; YES I KNOW. So this is screaming bleeding problem. But it is being a pain in the ASS!!!! But I have beer now, ALL is good till tomorrow.

Will work for beer, parts and tools.
90 Jimmy 350TBI-700R4-241-33" BFGs-10 bolts w/4.10's
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>

 

[jarheadk5]

I notice you didn't have new calipers on that list of replaced items. You could have a caliper whose piston is canked in the bore and is now hung up. I have the same EXACT problem and I think that's what it is on mine-the guy I bought it from had just replaced front pads. When brake dust starts to accumulate on my wheels, the RF is heavily coated, but the LF has almost none.

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