What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Antiwrap bar pics

8

82dieselburb

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 6, 2004
Posts
105
Reaction score
0
Location
central Florida
I got my antiwrap bar done this week.It's made it out of 1.5 x.250 DOM that I turned down .15 on the end to sleeve into a 2" piece of DOM.The sleeve is about 15" long with 2 grease fittings.It should alow the bar to twist from side to side during flexing.I got the axle truss from Bluetorch.
I'm not going to finish mounting the cross member brace untill I get my HAD 1410 drive shafts in to make sure there aren't any clearance issues.By the way those are 63" springs and the axle is moved back about 6"

Picture206.jpg


Picture205.jpg


Picture210.jpg


Picture203.jpg


There are more pics in my webshots
 
Lookin good. Do you have plans for triangulation or some sort of bracing between the tubes coming off the axle truss?
 
Thanks,I plan an making a v support between both bars.I'm going to wait until I get everything hooked up to make sure I don't have to make any adjustments.
Yes those are 5150's mounted outboard through the floor.
Here's a pic of the shock mount

Picture208.jpg
 
I don't understand how these things work, somebody please explain it to me. If both tubes are attatched to the rear axle, and the other end is attached to the frame, what happens when the axle goes up, like in a landing from a jump? Or hitting a big bump? If the axle moves straight up it will make the bars move staight up, but what about the piece that connects to the frame? How does it move up like the axle does? :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
suspensions don't travel straight up and down. They travel in more of an arc. The joint at the frame end follows that arc on uptravel. Same with downtravel. You see that tis not hard mounted right? All the bar is there to do is follow the axle and make sure it can't twist. The problem with antiwrap is when the entire axle housing twists around its own centerline(and thus twists the springs causing "wrap"). This stops it from twisting like that, thus preventing axle wrap.
 
The ones that I have seen have a shackle on the end on the frame side. Without a shackle, I think you would have to make the bar pivit on the same plane as the forward section of the leaves to get leafe movement that is not restricted. The leaves themselves also flaten out and change length hence the shackle in the rear (on the leaves).

I this setup would do the job but without a shackle it would restrict the travel in some fashion unless I'm looking at it wrong. I think this setup would work great on a linked suspension (this would just be one of the links or a combination of two links) where the axles does travel in an exact arc dictated by the links.

Or am I off base?
 
you are quite right, I completely missed that it didn't have a shackle. I was even sitting in class this morning thinking about how to fab an antiwrap and thought about having to mount it in the same plane as the leaf spring mounts(same pivout point). Still didn't dawn on me that he doesn't have a shackle setup.

I'm guessing that the arm pivots AND slides inside of the sleeve??
 
No, since its nearly hard mounted at the axle the whole arm would have to travel in its own arc. The sleeve and mount prevent that, thus the antiwrap effect.
 
Oh, you are right, just had to visualize it. So, stick on a grease zerk and go for it!

I wonder if the sliding setup or the shackle setup would be better?
 
another advantage to the sleeve is that it can rotate inside its outer tube allowing more articulation. the shackle is only designed to move in one plane. to combat this, some people have put heim joints at the shackle to give them back some of the rotation.

do you want the forward pivot point where the leaf springs pivot or the driveshaft? assuming its a fixed yoke, i would think that you want the forward pivot where the ujoint is. if its a slip yoke, i would think you want it at the spring pivot. or do you pick some place in the middle?
 
Sandman said:
Oh, you are right, just had to visualize it. So, stick on a grease zerk and go for it!

I wonder if the sliding setup or the shackle setup would be better?
Click to expand...

Looks like he's ahead of you on that one

Picture205.jpg


Note the zerk fitting in the sliding sleeve.
 
Nice. I missed that from the beginning. Thats two threada in a row that I have muddied the waters on. I think I will copy that design for my setup.

I will retreat.
 
Are you going to reinforce the crossmember, maybe something like how they C notch a frame on lowered trucks?
 
70~K5 said:
Are you going to reinforce the crossmember, maybe something like how they C notch a frame on lowered trucks?
Click to expand...

No I don't think the crossmember will need to be reinforced.The antiwrap crossmember will be mounted close enough to help reinforce the frame.
 
82dieselburb said:
No I don't think the crossmember will need to be reinforced.The antiwrap crossmember will be mounted close enough to help reinforce the frame.
Click to expand...

At least clean it up. It has stress risers all over it now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom