What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Any body installed a 1 inch body lift on a K30

trevmountain

trevmountain

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 28, 2007
Posts
158
Reaction score
0
Location
Jackson, WY
Just curious if anybody has installed the ORD 1 inch body lift on an mid eighties K30, mine happens to be an 84. I started the task today and it's looking to be quite the ordeal.

First question: What's the deal with the body mounts for the cab? Do I have to pull the carpet up? The bolts go up into the floor pan so there is obviously no way to access a nut. Is there a threaded capture nut or something. If it is a capture nut can I just hit em with the impact gun?

Second question: Can I hit the bed mounts with the impact without spinning the dome styled bolts, (sorry forget what they are called). If that's not the best option how does a guy go about popping these loose? How do you hold them? If I recall these dome styled bolts have a square base that should seat in so in theory I should be able to hit them with the impact??

Also if anybody has any tips of jacking locations and or ideas of materials used to hold the body up the most effective way. Also what kind of poundage should I retorque the bolts to when re installing.

Thanks in advance
 
Dont use an impact, there are hidden welded nuts. Alot of times the ones behind the seats spin. If that happens you need to cut a hole in the floor and reweld the nut.

Do the passenger side mounts first and then the drivers side, dont take out all the body bolts at once. Check for stretched ground wires and fan to shroud clearance.

Jack the cab up where your feet would be if you were in the seats and the bed in the middle of the wheel well.
 
I actually have new poly mounts for it. But thanks for the tip.

It appears that both the cab mounts (the ones behind the seats and the ones at the front of the cab) have a capture nut or weld in nut. Not just behind the seats or am I wrong.

I was nervous about spinning them off with an impact but my hell they are so stinking tight. I tried cranking one with a 2 ft socket bar and it would move slightly but wouldn't ever seem to break loose. Doesn't appear to be any way to get a lube on the threads because they are buried, well unless I pull the carpet. Would be alot easier if it wasn't perfect interior.

Thanks again
 
On the bed bolts, yes they do have square shoulders but once they have slack they can pop up out of the hole and spin. Have somebody there to help by simply standing on the bolt while you loosen them. This will keep them puzzle pieced down in the square hole and prevent spinning.

Also be sure to check for fan to shroud clearance after installation. Even with only the 1" B/L I had to trim my shroud because the fan was hitting.
 
I drilled all the way through and bolted it that way when I swapped, it worked great and I didn't feel like messing with the captured nuts ever again...
 
Trevor if you have to cut find yourself some body plugs, be very careful about locating the hole then cut it with a hole saw. Then use a body plug. Looks factory
 
Ok so the verdict is, I've got all bolts loose minus the two cab mounts in the floor pan, they are spinning. Better it's those than the ones behind the seat I guess, (fairly easy to get to).

So I need to access through the floor and I like Eric's idea of using a hole saw and body plugs. Has anyone done this? The hard part is going to be getting a perfect location for the center of the capture nut or bolt. Is there some kind of marking, dimple ect for this located on the floor pan? Measuring will be a pain but possible I guess.

This wouldn't be much of an issue if the truck were a beater but this has to be done mucho professional or it's kind of like setting fire to money.

Thanks
 
Just talked to an auto body guy who seemed to know his ****e with 80's K30's and he said that there is an access panel through the firewall. He said you have to remove the fender liner and there it is. He said the panel will most likely be a snap in style and easy to access. Does this guy know what he's talking about???

I'm headed out to investigate but thought I'd through this out there before I dig in to deep.

Thanks
 
There is no access panels to the capture nuts. I would cut a hole in the front of the support, not through the top.
 
and 1 layer thick.

make 3 cuts. bend down. then when done bend up and weld tight. and coat it with undercoat. :thumb:
 
In the past when I have done body lifts it was always with minimal tools so I went in from the top, no welder or anything at the time.
 
Well after inspecting I quickly saw for myself there is no access panel. I proceeded to come in from the top. Actually wasn't that bad, I welded the nut solid and with even the small amount of heat from the welds was able to break the bolts loose. Maybe should have just tried heating the bolt from the base before cutting but it probably wouldn't have gotten hot enough where it was needed. 1" 1/2 body plugs will be here tomorrow to fill holes.

I did try the side entry techinque as well just to see what was up but ended up hitting a cross plate, I couldn't fit my 1 1/2" hole saw in deep enough, it was all I had. Decent Idea though for sure.

Tomorrow I'll start with the passenger side first and start the install, over the hump now.

Any body have any pics of there jacking techniques (where and what types of materials were used ect}?

Body lift 001.jpg

Body lift 002.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom