Besides skip plates, has anyone come up with a good use for titanium bar, sheet or plate?
CK5
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Any good uses for Titanium
- Thread starter LVJimmy
- Start date
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
I am pretty sure you can use Titanium anywhere you use steel. Lighter than Aluminum and stronger than steel and expensive as ****. I think an ORD doubler machined from titanium would be ultra bling 
Ira
Ira
resurrected_jimmy
1/2 ton status
start building your own nuclear sub ??? 
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Not to be a Know it all but our subs are made out of an alloy steel and it is only 1 5/8" thick. The Russians however do have titanium hulls. As a matter of fact the Russians have 2 pressure hulls on every submarine one inside the other. 
Ira
Ira
resurrected_jimmy
1/2 ton status
just a thought....... 
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
I know it would be sweet to have your own submarine though dont you think.
Ira
Ira
surpip
1 ton status
ya and look how much it had helped them outsandawgk5 said:Not to be a Know it all but our subs are made out of an alloy steel and it is only 1 5/8" thick. The Russians however do have titanium hulls. As a matter of fact the Russians have 2 pressure hulls on every submarine one inside the other.
Ira
im making a switch plate out of Ti, pic's to come
resurrected_jimmy
1/2 ton status
bumper brackets that won't bend !!!!!!!! I could finally fix my warn bumper so its worth a flip
as a machinist i make as much stuff as i can out of titanium. i hang on to every piece left over from a job if i can. plus a friend of mine who is also a machinist does all kinds of large parts out of titanium, so if i need a fairly large piece i can usually get it. i am making a custom suspension part that i cant go into details on but a part of it will be titanium. when its all prototyped out and tested im going to try for a pat. pending on my part. then i will post pics of it and i might get into selling some of these parts possibly. i dont think the production parts will be titanium cause of cost to manufacture the parts, no one could afford them, but my part for my rig will be though.
blk87K5
1/2 ton status
We have made roof skins for a buggy out of it once. I would hate to know how much the piece of plate cost that we used though. 
jeeptuff
1/2 ton status
Have thin sheet titanium??? A custom faceplate for your gauges?? Just a thought.
PsychoticDeadGuy
1/2 ton status
definatly tie rods and drag links. do you have the skills and equipment to weld Ti? i will be learning how to weld it in a couple weeks. but im only 17 so im not sure if i could find a job in the welding industry.
Cost of Ti
about $30 a pound if you are buying 8000# pounds worth and it's not an exotic grade. THe smaller the order the more expensive.
about $30 a pound if you are buying 8000# pounds worth and it's not an exotic grade. THe smaller the order the more expensive.
Problem with Ti
Can't use any of the contact cleaners on Ti. It causes corrsion INSIDE the metal. Can't see that it's much until it fails. Don't know if that's limited to 1,1,1 and 1,1,2 type cleaners or if it applies to all chlorinated solvents.
Can't use any of the contact cleaners on Ti. It causes corrsion INSIDE the metal. Can't see that it's much until it fails. Don't know if that's limited to 1,1,1 and 1,1,2 type cleaners or if it applies to all chlorinated solvents.
ntsqd said:
Yep, titanium and chlorine don't play well together.
**Off-topic alert** This fact was learned during the manufacture of the prototype A-12, the single-seat version of the SR-71. Some of the titanium skins were cracking as they were being riveted into place on the frames. Kelly Johnson, Ben Rich, and the other geniuses at Lockheed's Skunkworks spent weeks going through the entire manufacturing process for the skins, and found that only the skins made in the summer were the ones cracking. Took them a couple more weeks of investigation (during this time, the prototype assembly process was dead in the water) to figure out that the water used by the manufacturer to rinse the skins before packaging and shipping was plain tap water. The town the mfgr. was located in used more chlorine in the tap water in the summer. They changed the specifications to require that only distilled water be used on or near titanium parts for the project... and they never had another cracking problem.
Ti Sub
I've seen two subs hulls cut apart as scrap. The russians had lots of problems with Ti subs. I think I'll stay with the USN designed subs.
I've seen two subs hulls cut apart as scrap. The russians had lots of problems with Ti subs. I think I'll stay with the USN designed subs.
blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
how about
macining out some u joint bodies cross drill them and put in a grease zert and when we buy a u joint we just use the cap and roller bearing...i would like all my yokes made out of it even the staps...what do you think that would run each?
macining out some u joint bodies cross drill them and put in a grease zert and when we buy a u joint we just use the cap and roller bearing...i would like all my yokes made out of it even the staps...what do you think that would run each?
I'm planning to make my upper links out of Titanium...
The lower (bashable) links will still be mild steel.
From what I've already learned Ti is very hard to machine, and the cutters need to be sharpened constantly.... still you can't argue with the bling-factor. And there's nothing like saving 6 oz of weight on a 6000 LB rig!!
The lower (bashable) links will still be mild steel.
From what I've already learned Ti is very hard to machine, and the cutters need to be sharpened constantly.... still you can't argue with the bling-factor. And there's nothing like saving 6 oz of weight on a 6000 LB rig!!
Greg72 said:From what I've already learned Ti is very hard to machine, and the cutters need to be sharpened constantly....
greg, ti is not hard to machine at all, you just have to use good sharp carbide endmills to mill it and to turn it you have to use carbide tool bits or carbide inserts in a insert tool holder that has a sharp edge or keen edge. i dont mean a sharp point, you still need a radius on your tool tip but the edge needs to be sharp with the proper relief clearences. turning inserts for most materials have a honed edge, meaning it actually has a radius it cuts through the material with, thats where your edge strength and edge wear resistence comes from along with increased tool life is the honed edge. if you run your speeds and feeds corectly with cutting fluid your tool life is good with titanium, when the tool or turning tip does get dull though you should sharpen or change the tool right away. steel, aluminum, other materials are somewhat forgiving with a slightly dull tool, but not titanium and other exotic materials. you can even cut it dry too, you just put alot of heat into the cut and your tool life is decreased alot, but a small turn pass or a small bit of milling dry wont hurt anything, but for alot of milling or turning, cutting fluid or cutting oil is a must, especially since the chips can catch on fire IF they get hot enough.
