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Any issue using exhaust pipe to join radiator hose?

73k5blazer

73k5blazer

End the H1B Program!
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With the weirdo serp setup and the giant flex-a-lite radiator with 1.75 nipple, I needed a custom 1.75<->1.75 hose. I could not find one that would fit. I tried ordering by spec, I've visted every auto parts store around and spent probably hours staring at hoses on the wall. The flex stuff wouldn't work either as it wouldn't keep it's shape good enough to keep the belt and idler pully from hitting it, not to mention sitting the frame rail, even a piece of loom or extra rubber between would wear away the way it fit.

But I did take 2 different hoses and cut them right, twist em right and join them together and it fits very nice.

I used a piece of aluminized exhaust tubing. There's no bead on it, and it's so short I'm not sure an exhaust place could get the die in to do the bead. I've been driving around on it, it seems fine. I can't pull them apart with my hands hot or cold to save my life. I'm also concerned with corrosion, but the splicer is completely encased within the hose, it's only a few inches long.

I had that stainless hard flex stuff with the coupler pieces at each end. I had concerns about the coupler pieces, 2 clamps at each end business. The upper blew off quite quickly, I replaced that with one I found that fits. The lower though seemed ok and I couldn't find one, so I left it. Well, the rubber coupler pieces started seeping after a few months.

There doesn't seem to be a store around that carries those hard splicer pieces, I found a couple on the interweb and but they had a 3/8 tee in it as well or something. I know there was a places that made these. I can't find 'em though. I would like to go on a week long hunting trip saturday so I'm a little out of time to order something from the interweb anyway.

Any issue with using the exhaust tubing without a bead? It seems ok. Long term has me a bit concerned however.
 
JTR's site is...difficult to navigate, but they show them here: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_TPI-TBI_HoseSplice.html

And then there is this page http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Cooling-System-Parts_Order.html

I am fairly certain I saw others out there, can't find them now.

My Dad had a problem with the engine outlet and radiator inlet being different sizes after the TBI swap and aftermarket radiator. He cut the "stepped" fitting off an old copper/brass unit, so of course only one side had the bead to keep the hose from popping off. He lost it shortly after putting it together and starting to drive. Made it maybe 10-15 miles. He got more fluid and tightened it down more, and it's been working since.

Enough to make me NOT want to do it other than for a temporary fix. One of the linked splices would be the most correct way to do it, although I'd rather not have anymore connections than absolutely required...unfortunately when you can't find the right hose, you don't have much choice I suppose.
 
I ran a 90* piece of .12 wall tube for about a year with no issues. I think if you can find a stainless piece and keep it tight you should be good to go
 
I would either double clamp it or use a higher quality clamp than just a lowes jobby. It wont go anywhere but I would pull it out and run 4 small beads evenly spaced to make a lip on each end.
 
You can also run a small bead of weld on the end of the tube around the diameter. This will prevent the hose from sliding off. Sort of a barb.

Have a couple of joints like this on my blazer and has never given an issue.
 
I've use exhaust pipe adapters and straight peices to splice a radiator hose together with no issues,when one was the wrong size on one end after changine the radiator ,or to patch a hose that got sliced by a fan belt or had a bad spot burst--I've use EMT conduit too,and thats better in a way,because it is galvanized and wont rust as fast as exhaust pipe.......they had no flare on the ends to help prevent the hose from coming off ,but I had no issues with that--if your paranoid about that you can put some 3M weatherstip adhesive on both the hose and pipe and it wont budge,you'll have to cut it off later most likely............................................................................................................................................................................................................I've also used a peice of radiator hose as a bushing when I had a radiator with a 1-1/2" nipple and my upper hose was 1-3/4" and it never leaked or threatened to pop off in use.....you can find barbed brass couplings that large at marine supply or plumbing supply stores too,and plastic ones too,but I'd be leery of trusting a plastic fitting unless your sure it will hold up to automotive use ,household plumbing ones might get brittle and crack after a short time...a copper fitting would work well too,but would not be cheap...
 
Anybody use these? Was thinking one of these with a copper insert underneath.

Gates->Automotive -> Clamps -> PowerGrip® SB Clamps (Order exact quantity required in multiples of 10.)
Maintenance-free clamps that retain dynamic tension and never need retightening.
These clamps stop leaks, even on out-of-round applications.
Clamp down better in all conditions and temperature extremes.
Easy to install with ordinary heat gun. No scraped hands.
Environmentally friendly, eliminates antifreeze leaks and ground water contamination.
Made from heat-sensitive thermoplastic with a memory to prevent over or under-tightening.
Unique indicator tells you when clamp has shrunk to seal.
Can be used with all brands of silicone hose.
Click to expand...

PowerGripSBClamp.jpg

PowerGripSBClamp.jpg
 
Check out post 130
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop-tools/482425-show-your-hand-made-tools-6.html#post10304688
8-26-09%20003%20(Medium).jpg
8-26-09%20005%20(Medium).jpg
 
I've never seen or heard of those new "clamps"...sounds to me like they were made for silicone hoses only,those always did have trouble with "normal" worm gear clamps,being so soft they would dig into and ruin the hose--so they came up with special clamps that have no slotted openings in the band (like fuel injection clamps)...I dont know if they would work well with typical rubber hoses..personally I'd rather have a old fashioned clamp that can be tightened manually,I'd be leery of those not shrinking enough to clamp good or coming loose later on...would suck on the trail if you dont have a heat gun with you!...
 
mine has a exhaust pipe union for 4 or 5 years now (serpentine conversion). had problems the first week hose would pull off under a heavy load. made a bead and never look back!
 
GM and Chevy did it OEM on first gen blazers and jimmys on the upper radiator hose. Two straight pieces of rubber hose with a piece similar to exhaust tube in the middle for the bends. I still have one in my parts stack. Seems like they had a slight bump on the end to keep the hoses on. When I ran them I used two clamps. Works fine.

Just went and looked at it. 1 and 1/2 O.D. with a small bump on the ends.
 
I still have one of those pipes off my '72 K5 somewhere in my garage!..I found out a 1972 Monte-Carlo's upper hose fit it's 350 perfect,so I decided to "lose" the steel pipe and use an all rubber upper hose instead on it..............................I'd use double worm gear clamps on a straight pipe woth no "bead"--I have tranny lines with no flare or bead with 11/32" P/S return hose on them double clamped on my pickup,and no leaks or evidence of them trying to pop off...and the lines are 5/16!.
 
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