CK5
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Any special tools needed when I rebuild my Q-Jet? Difficult level?
- Thread starter Scott A
- Start date
pauly383
Daddy383
Just be careful when you drive the pin out for accellerator pump lever, the casting isn't too strong. Use the right size flathead on the jets , they are soft. I always like a set of pics and some nice bent and straight needlenose pliers on hand. Its little tricky on later ones to get the choke rod to go back in through the little opening , three hands would be helpful at times /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
Most of the rebuild kits I've used come with a new accelerator pump setup...
make sure that if it does, it is IDENTICAL to the one you pull ed out. There are numerous differences in the piston assembly that can cause problems.
make sure that if it does, it is IDENTICAL to the one you pull ed out. There are numerous differences in the piston assembly that can cause problems.
pauly383
Daddy383
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Most of the rebuild kits I've used come with a new accelerator pump setup...
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I actually managed to crack one of the ears off that the lever sits in between. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
Most of the rebuild kits I've used come with a new accelerator pump setup...
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I actually managed to crack one of the ears off that the lever sits in between. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
kits usually dont come with floats, if your interested in replacing that... the kit will have directions for setting the float.
not difficult, i do about 20 a year for work. just take your time and notate how things come apart. carb cleaner and compressed air for cleaning...
not difficult, i do about 20 a year for work. just take your time and notate how things come apart. carb cleaner and compressed air for cleaning...
cool,my bud may want his carter AFB back.so i gotts me two Q-jet,s to rebuild. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gifto /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
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I actually managed to crack one of the ears off that the lever sits in between.
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Did that myself. Something stupid when I first started messing with automotive stuff...I think I was trying to bend the two ears closer together to get the accelerator pump lever to "center" better on the piston. lol
I actually managed to crack one of the ears off that the lever sits in between.
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Did that myself. Something stupid when I first started messing with automotive stuff...I think I was trying to bend the two ears closer together to get the accelerator pump lever to "center" better on the piston. lol
One other thing to grab at the parts store. JB Weld. Your going to need it to seal up the casting plugs at the bottom of the main body of the carb. These are notorious for leaking fuel into the intake casusing numerous problems like running rich, irratic idle and so on. Once you get the throttle plate off you'll see them. mix up the JB and cover the plugs with a good coat on the freshly cleaned and dried casting.
While you got the throttle plate off, check the condition of the holes that the throttle shafts ride on. These are known to wear out (get hogged out of round) and cause an uncontrolled vacuum leak. If its really bad the throttle blades will bind up in the bores. You should be able to get a repair kit with a big drill bit and nylon bushings at a better part store than auto zone.
While you got the throttle plate off, check the condition of the holes that the throttle shafts ride on. These are known to wear out (get hogged out of round) and cause an uncontrolled vacuum leak. If its really bad the throttle blades will bind up in the bores. You should be able to get a repair kit with a big drill bit and nylon bushings at a better part store than auto zone.
I highly reccomend a new float--those foam ones can get soggy after 20 years,brass ones can have pinholes in them--i'd say a bad float or float adjustment is 90% of the cause of carb trouble.
As for how difficult--on a scale of one to ten I'd say its a 6 or 7--the hardest part for me is getting the top on and off without bending anything. And make certain the top bowl gasket is the exact one--the kit will probably have more than one in it--make sure all the holes match up,and that no "extra"holes are in the gasket the old one didnt have.
The J-B weld is a good idea too on the bowl like the other post said--they make a foam thing that goes in there too if you dont want to epoxy it.
A nice clean workbench is a must--and a magnet from an old speaker will be handy to keep all the screws and ball bearing check balls from escaping(some of those balls are aluminum--dont lose it!)and with the exploded veiw in the carb kit,you should be golden--good luck!. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
As for how difficult--on a scale of one to ten I'd say its a 6 or 7--the hardest part for me is getting the top on and off without bending anything. And make certain the top bowl gasket is the exact one--the kit will probably have more than one in it--make sure all the holes match up,and that no "extra"holes are in the gasket the old one didnt have.
The J-B weld is a good idea too on the bowl like the other post said--they make a foam thing that goes in there too if you dont want to epoxy it.
A nice clean workbench is a must--and a magnet from an old speaker will be handy to keep all the screws and ball bearing check balls from escaping(some of those balls are aluminum--dont lose it!)and with the exploded veiw in the carb kit,you should be golden--good luck!. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
