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ANY THOUGHTS ON THESE X-OVER KNUCKLES??

T

tree_entz

1/2 ton status
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Finally planning on doing a blazzzzer build-up and will
need x-over for the front spring swap.
you guys think the knuckle will hold up? any1 run these?
 
Those are for the newer Ford axles, mainly the Super Duties. Won't fit or work for anything GM D60's. Those arms on the ORU site are the ball-joint style knuckles.
 
your better off going down to the junk yard. Are finding one in the for sale section on this board.
 
The one shown is for a 50, but I belive hes referring to the 10b and 44 knuckles they make.

I think ORU is rather pricey, you can go to the junkyard like as stated above. Or just hold off if you are going to later swap in a 60.
 
all i'm thinking is that you gotta find the flat top knuckle,
send it out, get it back and even then it's not one piece.
a 2wd box is easy to find of course.
but I guess what I really want to know is the one-piece knuckle stronger? you also have the option of added height on some for larger lifts too.
 
Well it is cast. That isn't horrible but if it breaks you will not be able to fix it. There is also no option for hi-steer if you ever wanted to move in that direction. It works, I don't know of anybody running that style on the trail though. For the price for one knuckle you can do the whole x-over like everybody else and have parts that will be easier to find if you have problems.
 
you realize they want $600 dollars for that crap right? You would feel horrible if you spent $600 on crossover on a 1/2 ton axle. I mean, maybe all together. I usually sell the flattops I get for $100 a piece. $50 to get them machined I believe. $100 for a steering arm. Thats $250 for a knuckle they are charging $600 for. You could get your drag link,($95) and pitman arm($80) AND STILL not pay as much as that.
 
Thanks for the thoughts... wanted to see what everyone thought, and when the time comes for the reasons outlined here, i'll probably have an ORD setup or something similar
BUT....FYI
the $600 is for everything but the 2wd steering box /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]

BUT....FYI
the $600 is for everything but the 2wd steering box /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Are you positive? When we did SAS on my buddies truck the drag link, ends, pitman arm and steering arm were something like $600. And the drag link was screwed up. Thats what I paid for my Hi steer and crossover from Sky, and MUCH better quality parts.

So I dont see how pitman arm, drag link, ends, hardware AND a macined knuckle can cost the same.
 
index_12.jpg

index_16.jpg

[ QUOTE ]
All of ORU's Crossover Steering Kits include: pitman arm, drag link, tie rod ends, and jam nuts.

[/ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Chevrolet NOTE: All of the Chevy kits require 2WD steering box of same year as vehicle.
This section covers all Chevy's from 1968-1987, and 1988-1991 Blazers and Suburbans.

[/ QUOTE ]
 
[ QUOTE ]
index_12.jpg

index_16.jpg

[ QUOTE ]
All of ORU's Crossover Steering Kits include: pitman arm, drag link, tie rod ends, and jam nuts.

[/ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Chevrolet NOTE: All of the Chevy kits require 2WD steering box of same year as vehicle.
This section covers all Chevy's from 1968-1987, and 1988-1991 Blazers and Suburbans.

[/ QUOTE ]

[/ QUOTE ]

Just by looking at how high up the drag link is, I would think that unless you are running 15 inches of lift that drag link will make contact with the engine crossmember which then you will have to re bend or have the draglink bent ( To this -\_/- ) to clear the crossmember...
 
[ QUOTE ]
index_12.jpg

index_16.jpg

[ QUOTE ]
All of ORU's Crossover Steering Kits include: pitman arm, drag link, tie rod ends, and jam nuts.

[/ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Chevrolet NOTE: All of the Chevy kits require 2WD steering box of same year as vehicle.
This section covers all Chevy's from 1968-1987, and 1988-1991 Blazers and Suburbans.

[/ QUOTE ]

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes exactly, no mention of a steering arm or machined knuckle.
 
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