Any use for an adjustable ball pivot for SM465 running stock mechanical linkage?

[handloader90]

Mating a LS 6.0 to a SM465 and have the flywheel, clutch kit, pilot bearing and the associated metric bolts ordered and heading my way.

I noticed that Novak sells an adjustable ball pivot for SM465's. I believe it is mainly to go with their hydro clutch kits and when doing conversions such as a SM465 to say an AMC engine.

Any use for this thing in a stock SM465 using mechanical linkage setup?

I ****ed my clutch fork up when pulling the old SBC... don't know how but that spring steel clip inside of the fork was broken and fell out of the clutch fork.

Figured I would replace the ball pivot at the same time, thought that it may have worn out over time with specific wear to the old clutch fork.

Below are screenshots of Dorman P/N's of what I plan on getting.

Dorman lists the parts as compatible with eachother in addition to being the proper parts for a '79 K10, I have a '79 K5 which I'm going to assume has the exact same setup.

 

[Chevy305]

I'd just use the factory style clutch fork and the ball pivot. You're not mating the trans to a different brand engine, no need for something special. Only need the correct flywheel to be sure everything lines up just like a factory Gen 1 SBC.

 

[ashman]

I mated a 4500 to a 6.0 and wish I would have had an adjustable ball. I don't remember how I ended up solving the issue (probably in my build thread), but I had issues with it being too short.

If the price difference isn't much, I'd get it just in case.

 

[The Butcher]

@handloader90 did you end up getting the adjustable ball and the Dorman clutch fork? After watching YouTube videos on manual trans installs (mostly getrags it seems), there seems to be a need to set the pivot ball height so things engage properly. I'm going from a TH400 to an SM465, and it looks like I need to be concerned with the pivot ball height as well as centering the bell housing on the motor. In a few of the videos they end up using offset dowels to get the bell housing centered. Just wondering if you had any issues, and how you set yours up.

 

[handloader90]

I changed my mind about the adjustable pivot ball.

I read a lot of reviews about them where people stated that the max length of the adjustable pivot balls were the same length as a non-adjustable one. Which means no real adjustments.

I also read about people having a hard time making proper adjustments.

I just decided not to go that route.... yet.

I still haven't got all of my stuff together. I'm going to be using the Novak hydraukic clutch kit and need to get those pieces delivered and installed before I can tell if I need anything adjustable.

About the offset dowel pins, I've seen it done but I won't be going that route. You have to measure run out and have a dial indicator and stuff like that. Too much precision for what I'm doing.

 

[The Butcher]

Good to know on the pivot ball. I'm staying mechanical just for ease.

On the offset dowel pins, are they not necessary? It seems to make sense that you should check for run out with a dial indicator to make sure everything lines up so you can prevent premature wear on the bushings/bearings and shaft. Is that not the case? If I can get away with just slapping the flywheel on the motor and bolting the bell housing on then I'm fine with that. It just seems (from watching YouTube) you need to check the run out.

 

[handloader90]

You probably do need to check the runout and use offset dowel pins if needed. It seems to be the proper way to do things.

I'm just slapping all my stuff together though. It'll be ok.