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Anybody having issues with 56" springs up front?

RockinChevy

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I wanted to know if any flex/binding and steering related contact issues exist... Those who have the 56" springs up front, post up what issues you have. I'm pretty sure I'll have the axle moved forward but not too far to run into pitman arm/u-bolt issues.
I'm going to start saving up and build with a straight frame. I'm going for some coilovers in the rear and stay leaf-sprung up front. I don't want to drill any more holes for the B52s and 56s can be bolted on in stock location and 7.25 shackles. So your feedback will help me decide what direction to go. Not sure if I should use my 48" Superlift HD springs (I hated them, they're super stiff) or go 56s.

Thanks
 
I wanted to know if any flex/binding and steering related contact issues exist... Those who have the 56" springs up front, post up what issues you have. I'm pretty sure I'll have the axle moved forward but not too far to run into pitman arm/u-bolt issues.
I'm going to start saving up and build with a straight frame. I'm going for some coilovers in the rear and stay leaf-sprung up front. I don't want to drill any more holes for the B52s and 56s can be bolted on in stock location and 7.25 shackles. So your feedback will help me decide what direction to go. Not sure if I should use my 48" Superlift HD springs (I hated them, they're super stiff) or go 56s.

Thanks

You do not have to drill holes for the B52s and you have to move the forward bracket just like you would for running 52" springs. The only thing running 56s will get you is not having to relocate the rear shackle hole in the frame. I do not run them but I will I just need to go get a set at the junkyard.

Dik
 
You do not have to drill holes for the B52s and you have to move the forward bracket just like you would for running 52" springs. The only thing running 56s will get you is not having to relocate the rear shackle hole in the frame. I do not run them but I will I just need to go get a set at the junkyard.

Dik


I'm currently in the 52/56 setup. My frame was bent, twisted and cracked then welded up. I had to drill new holes to make the B52s fit then I twisted the frame some more from running short shocks. Whoops.
Anyway, aside from that, I wanted to try a different setup, maybe 56s and go 4 link in the rear. But wanted to see what the issues are before I go this route. Just looking for a quick-n-easy bolt in, no more drilling hole cuts. And I assume 56s handle worse than 52s on the road?
 
I love mine, need to do some sort of track bar because it does move side to side more than i like. both main leaves are starting to bend, been about a year of hard wheelin. on sunday i drove some dirt roads and apparently did ~75 and it rode like a caddy.
 
Thanks ScoobyDann, a track bar or panhard bar is already on my list. So I guess nobody else has any steering contact issues then so I'll go ahead and toss this into my build project.
 
I love mine, need to do some sort of track bar because it does move side to side more than i like. both main leaves are starting to bend, been about a year of hard wheelin. on sunday i drove some dirt roads and apparently did ~75 and it rode like a caddy.




Hmmmmm :thinking: .



Good to know!
 
I am running 56"s too. I have had no problems with steering. I am running ORD high steer & WTO assist. I have n oticed more side to side movement also, but not enough to do a track bar. I really don't have the room for one. I moved the front axle forward 3.5" & am running 7.25" shacckles in the stock location.
 
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I'm running 56's up front. Moved into the "normal" 52/56 spring mount position up front, with 7.25" shackles to the stock position in rear. I agree in the side-to-side movement being more than stock, but not enough to get scary. Hydro assist basically eliminates all the side forces anyway.
 
Depending on how low you are would a 4 link set up get real close to the gas tank if left in stock locale?
 
Would the 3" wide Ford 57" long springs help reduce the "side to side" feel that occurs or does this happen mainly because of the longer shackles?
 
I am running 56"s too. I have had no problems with steering. I am running ORD high steer & WTO assist. I have n oticed more side to side movement also, but not enough to do a track bar. I really don't have the room for one. I moved the front axle forward 3.5" & am running 8.25" shacckles in the stock location.


I thought about it but I'm not sure if I will actually move the axle forward or not. I'll have to discuss that with the fabricator who will be doing the 4 links for me. I had Kert make me some 7.25 cross tied shackles to reduce (not eliminate) the lateral movement. This is just a quick solution to my issues with the 52" springs. Eventually I will get the hydro assist stuff later when money allows.
 
Depending on how low you are would a 4 link set up get real close to the gas tank if left in stock locale?

I thought ahead. I'm replacing the stock tank with an aftermarket one and mount it on top of the frame, probably on the floor pan.
 
Would the 3" wide Ford 57" long springs help reduce the "side to side" feel that occurs or does this happen mainly because of the longer shackles?


Yes. 3" ford springs are twice as thick than the chevy springs, my buddy has them and he says he barely gets any flex out of them. He has the 12" travel Bilsteins and he doesn't use all of it. He also has no issues with lateral movement, even before he installed hydro assist. I haven't heard anything from anyone else yet.
 
Also I'm still running the 14.53" travel Bilstein 5150s.... is this enough travel to take on the 56s' extra droop? What travel shocks are you guys using?
 
I had Kert make me some 7.25 cross tied shackles to reduce (not eliminate) the lateral movement.


There is not enough room between the frame & the spring to run a crosstied shackle in my set up.

On a side note I believe the shackles are what causes the majority of the extra lateral movement.

I edited my shackle length in my first post they are 7.25" not 8.25"


Also I'm still running the 14.53" travel Bilstein 5150s.... is this enough travel to take on the 56s' extra droop? What travel shocks are you guys using?



My 56" springs droop enough in the front & rear to max out 15" stroke shocks. I mounted them after building bumpstops & left minimal compresion at the top. My fronts are mounted straight up & down on shock hoops & the rears are mounted in DIY4X inboard kit.













.
 
Yes. 3" ford springs are twice as thick than the chevy springs, my buddy has them and he says he barely gets any flex out of them. He has the 12" travel Bilsteins and he doesn't use all of it. He also has no issues with lateral movement, even before he installed hydro assist. I haven't heard anything from anyone else yet.

i have 2 sets of 57s laying in the floor..one has like 6 leaves and the other 4...the 6 leave seems like it might be really stiff but the 4 seems like it might be really,really soft like i might not get much lift out of them...im prolly gonna build a hybrid pack or something similar but im willing to bet they will flex just as well if not better than a standard set of 56's..
 
There is not enough room between the frame & the spring to run a crosstied shackle in my set up.

On a side note I believe the shackles are what causes the majority of the extra lateral movement.

I edited my shackle length in my first post they are 7.25" not 8.25"

I forgot to add that Kert moved the cross tie closer to the spring eye, so it will be 1/4" of rubbing the springs. They're not on my truck yet but I might find time to swap the BWP shackles with those and see if I notice any change.

My front shocks are set up the same way yours are, straight up above the axle. I'll definitely keep the towers and the crossmember and put them on the new frame.
 
Depending on how low you are would a 4 link set up get real close to the gas tank if left in stock locale?
You can move the rear axle back several inches before the gas tank gets in the way. Mine is 5.5"s back and the diff cover will just barely touch the gas tank skid plate, but it wont hit the tank. It's very close though
 
I thought ahead. I'm replacing the stock tank with an aftermarket one and mount it on top of the frame, probably on the floor pan.
Will you be running an external fuel pump then? or have you found a aftermarket tank that will accept the gm sender/pump?
 
Will you be running an external fuel pump then? or have you found a aftermarket tank that will accept the gm sender/pump?

I haven't found a fuel cell to accept the stock pump, so I'll use an external electric pump and sender instead.
 

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