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Anybody here know Golfs??

Fordum

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My idiot cousin called the other day. I think its true that God looks out for drunks and fools.
At least my cousin does not drink.
I try to buy top equipment, if used, I examine it carefully, find out its history, do serious research before I buy it.

He will go down and buy a used car because it looks neat.

Somehow, he almost never gets burned.
About 8 months ago, he bought a 1999 VW Golf. 2.0 liter engine, auto. tranny.

And, of course, everything works on it and it runs great.
Until Monday.
He said that it was running fine, until he pulled into a drive through to get coffee. Then the power windows would not roll down.

He got his coffee and continued on to work.
When he went out to crank it that afternoon, it would not even grunt.
Plenty of power in the battery, all dash lights came on when he turned on the key, no sound from the starter.

Tuesday he called me.
Now that I think about it, this is how he gets away with all the junk he buys. He has me to back him up, and I can fix darn near anything.

I swung by there Tuesday, and got my meter out .
Battery is good, connections are good. Motor has good ground.

When you turn the key to start, no sound from the starter. Headlights stay bright, and I hear the fuel pump kick in, so at least some part of the ignition switch is working.

I tried it in park and neutral. Held it in start and wiggled the heck out of the shifter.
No click, nothing.

He has a Haynes on it. I started looking at the schematic.
If it can be believed, its a fairly simple start circuit.
I don't see a starter disconnect for the alarm system. But there might be one.
It shows a straight line from the ignition switch through something called the starter inhibit relay to the starter solenoid.

NOTE: The starter inhibit relay is there for the automatic transmission. A manual gearbox car does not have one, so its unlikely to be for the security system.

The inhibit relay and the fuses for the windows are on a board called a fuse and relay board which is hidden behind a panel under the dash.

We did not have the tools to take the panel off Tuesday, and I had to be somewhere else Wed.
I told him to bring his Torx set to work Wed. pull the panel off and look for a main connector to that board.

I figure something has come loose and killed the windows and starter inhibit relay.

Wed., he got the panel off and saw the board, but it started storming, so he left it alone.
I cannot be there today either, but he send me an E-mail this morning in something of a panic.
He went to some jackleg help forum, and this is what they sent back.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
<most liekly you have a central control module that failed and that would disable all window operation and the starter too .

4/27/11 8:23 PM

the module is about $270.00 and labor for the diagnosis and replacement is about $270.00 to verify the cause but very certain that the cental control module is bad>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I don't think that VW used a central control module in 1999. There is not one in the Haynes, and I still suspect that relay board.



Problem is, I am not familiar enough with that breed of cat to know for sure if they had one of those modules in that year.



I wrote back and told him to do what I said and check the main connector for that board first, and if that did not fix it, see if he could find that inhibit relay. If so, he probably could swap another relay like it long enough to see if the starter would fire.


The car is so low to the ground, its not likely I will be crawling under anytime soon.

The starter is fairly high up on that engine, but to get to it from above, the battery box will have to come out.



That is the next step in my plan if the relay board idea does not work out.

Then I can at least see if the solenoid is getting power when the key is turned.

It could very easily be a bad solenoid.



Anybody here know about a control module?
 
Give me a few hrs and i will take a look in my bentley manual. I believe i have info for that year golf ( I had a jetta). I will try to get you the pages for that motor atleast
 
A guy I work with had one of those. One day after work it wouldn't start, same symptoms you are describing. He would turn the key & the starter wouldn't turn over. Some things worked but it just would turn over the starter.

It turns out that he left his headlights on, a fuse tripped so it wouldn't drain the battery. As soon as we replaced the fuse it started up fine.
 
Vary simple from here.

Are you getting 12 volts to solinoid switch wire while cranking.

That is my first test if battery and connectors are good
 
If you happen to find the manual, that would be great. He did not bother doing much to it today.
He unplugged and replugged the relays, but did not bypass any or try to test them.
He is making noises like he is going to have it towed to a shop.
I will be in the area tomorrow. I'll be real busy, but with any luck I can get a chance to check it out before he tows it.

On the one hand, if he tows it, its one less thing I have to worry about that does not earn me money, but when I get called in on a problem, I very seldom do not fix it, and it got me a little bugged that I might not get this going.
 
Vary simple from here.

Are you getting 12 volts to solinoid switch wire while cranking.

That is my first test if battery and connectors are good


I know darn it. So far I have had about 20 minutes of actual work time on it.
The starter and solenoid are accessible from the top, but the battery and box must come out to reach them.

I thought he was going to pull them today, but he wimped out. If he does not have it towed before I get a chance, I will find out more tomorrow.
 
It turns out that he left his headlights on, a fuse tripped so it wouldn't drain the battery. As soon as we replaced the fuse it started up fine.

You would not happen to remember where that fuse was would you?

There are 4 or 5 large open type fuses on a board on top of the battery. When I got there, one of them looked really funky.
I asked about it, and he said that he blew it jumping the car off.
I asked how and why was he jumping the car off?
It seems when it would not click, he thought the battery might be dead, so he tried to jump it off and hooked up the cables backward.
He assumed that was when the fuse blew.

These fuses are just big strips of metal with a heavy wire bolted to the ends with a narrow section in the middle.
He had soldered the blown part together.

Not correct, but not as bad as it sounds. There is still plenty of the narrow fuse part left, so while he may have upped the amp rating, its probably not very much.

It might not be soldered correctly, I have seen him do cold solder joints before. And it might have been blown before he hooked up the jumpers.............
 
I think it was a fuse inside a box located on the front passenger side. Inside the box the fuse was in the rear driver side of the box.

Now this was a few years ago and sometimes my memory don't serve me so well. Once in a while I remember details in a mirror image so I could be the opposite of what I described.
 
Sorry it took me so long to get back, one of my buddies had the HD with my bentley manual on it,

I found this, which should help

Also, if you PM me your address, i can send you the bentley manual.
 

Attachments

  • fusebox.bmp
    145.5 KB · Views: 5
If I knew what model golf you are woring on I can get you the information you need.Theres 4-5 differant models.Heres something using GTI as a search.

Vehicle Application:1994 Volkswagen Jetta III GL 2.0L1999 Volkswagen Jetta GLS 2.0L, Eng Cfg L4, Eng Des ABA, USA/Canada1995 Volkswagen Jetta III Celebration Edition 2.0L, Vin C2000 Volkswagen Cabrio 2.0L1999 Volkswagen Jetta GL 2.0L, Eng Des ABACustomer Concern:Starter does not engage.
Tests/Procedures:1. Check for ignition switch signal at the alarm module located below the left side of the dash above the Fuse/Relay panel. The alarm module has both a 10-pin and a 6-pin connector.

2. Unplug the 6-pin connector from the alarm module and check for a 12-volt signal to pin 5 (Red wire) when the ignition switch is in the crank position (Note: On automatic transmission vehicles the start signal actually comes from the Park Neutral Position (PNP) relay in the fuse panel. If there is no start signal to the alarm module pin 5 with the ignition in the start position, additional diagnosis of the PNP relay and related circuits will be necessary).

3. If 12 volts is available on pin 5 (Red wire) of the 6-pin alarm module connector with the ignition in the start position, use a jumper wire to bridge pin 5 (Red wire) to pin 6 (Red/Black wire) at the 6-pin connector harness side. Leave the connector disconnected from the alarm module.

4. If the vehicle cranks normally with the alarm module bypassed as described in step 3, the alarm module is the likely cause of the no crank condition.
Potential Causes:Alarm Module
Malfunctioning Ignition Switch

Tech Tips:Intermittent loss of the crank signal from the ignition switch is the common failure on these vehicles.
Diagnostic Codes:None
Author:deleatedAverage Reported Mileage:111471
onepx.gif
Confirmed Fix Summary
arrow_down_Blacks.gif
onepx.gif
target.gif
Confirmed Fix6 - Alarm Module6 - Ignition Switch1 - Ignition Switch Connector1 - Park Neutral Position (PNP) Switch1 - Starter
 
I have been waiting for a final solution before posting further, but I decided to do an update.
After I got a good manual, thanks Euzoa, I went to try to do some work on it, only to discover he had had it towed to an independent shop that most of the guys he works with uses.

I'm scrambling with all kinds of stuff right now, so I didn't do anymore. I just waited on the verdict.

I should have known better.

The guy at the shop found a blown fuse, no. 14 supposedly, but I got that third hand, so I'm not sure its right.

He put a test probe with a 20 amp breaker across it to check the current. I still have not found out what current he measured.
The breaker did not trip, and the car would crank normally with it in place.
So, my cousin talked him into trying a bigger fuse. ( You see what I have to deal with?? )

The car cranked ok, but shortly smoke started coming out from under the dash.

It seemed to be coming out from behind the fuse and relay panel.
He checked, and there is a module that seems to be the problem.

He says its Part #: 1J0 959 799 AJ

It seems to be variously called a body control module, alarm module, comfort control module, and other things.

In some areas there is a discussion about it having to be programmed to match the car.
E-bay has them for prices ranging from about $35 to over $200.

At this point, I figured I would try to help him out again. I told him to bring the module around and I would try to do something with it.

Next thing I hear, he has taken it to the R&D folks in the place he works. They told him that they could not do anything with it without a schematic, so he ordered one from somebody.

Now, I like schematics. Heck, I LOVE schematics, and often will not work on something without one.
But, given the things I have to work on from time to time, I can't count on having one more than about 30% of the time.
So, not having one, is not an automatic deal breaker. It just usually means my price went up..........

At this point, I guess we are waiting on the module. There is no core charge, so I will get a shot at the old one.

Hes my cousin and my friend, so I hope this fixes the problem, but part of me wants it to still not work to teach him a lesson.
I mean, I take time out from a very busy schedule, bug my friends here for help, and then he goes to just about anybody but me.
Oh well, thats my life.

Either way, I should have a final report soon.

Its funny, but of all the folks I know and help, there are two who do this on a regular basis. And he is not the worst.
Another friend will call me at all hours with a problem. Often I can figure it out over the phone. When I do, nearly every time, he insists that that cannot be the problem and goes elsewhere.

Later, when he finds out I'm right, he always very graciously calls to tell me and apologize, so I don't really mind.

I'll post the final verdict when I get it.
 
Heck I learned how to drive in a Golf. A 4 speed manual with reverse below first.
Ah the good old days back in South America, besides that I know nothing about them:D

My idiot cousin called the other day. I think its true that God looks out for drunks and fools.
At least my cousin does not drink.
I try to buy top equipment, if used, I examine it carefully, find out its history, do serious research before I buy it.

He will go down and buy a used car because it looks neat.

Somehow, he almost never gets burned.
About 8 months ago, he bought a 1999 VW Golf. 2.0 liter engine, auto. tranny.

And, of course, everything works on it and it runs great.
Until Monday.
He said that it was running fine, until he pulled into a drive through to get coffee. Then the power windows would not roll down.

He got his coffee and continued on to work.
When he went out to crank it that afternoon, it would not even grunt.
Plenty of power in the battery, all dash lights came on when he turned on the key, no sound from the starter.

Tuesday he called me.
Now that I think about it, this is how he gets away with all the junk he buys. He has me to back him up, and I can fix darn near anything.

I swung by there Tuesday, and got my meter out .
Battery is good, connections are good. Motor has good ground.

When you turn the key to start, no sound from the starter. Headlights stay bright, and I hear the fuel pump kick in, so at least some part of the ignition switch is working.

I tried it in park and neutral. Held it in start and wiggled the heck out of the shifter.
No click, nothing.

He has a Haynes on it. I started looking at the schematic.
If it can be believed, its a fairly simple start circuit.
I don't see a starter disconnect for the alarm system. But there might be one.
It shows a straight line from the ignition switch through something called the starter inhibit relay to the starter solenoid.

NOTE: The starter inhibit relay is there for the automatic transmission. A manual gearbox car does not have one, so its unlikely to be for the security system.

The inhibit relay and the fuses for the windows are on a board called a fuse and relay board which is hidden behind a panel under the dash.

We did not have the tools to take the panel off Tuesday, and I had to be somewhere else Wed.
I told him to bring his Torx set to work Wed. pull the panel off and look for a main connector to that board.

I figure something has come loose and killed the windows and starter inhibit relay.

Wed., he got the panel off and saw the board, but it started storming, so he left it alone.
I cannot be there today either, but he send me an E-mail this morning in something of a panic.
He went to some jackleg help forum, and this is what they sent back.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
<most liekly you have a central control module that failed and that would disable all window operation and the starter too .

4/27/11 8:23 PM

the module is about $270.00 and labor for the diagnosis and replacement is about $270.00 to verify the cause but very certain that the cental control module is bad>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I don't think that VW used a central control module in 1999. There is not one in the Haynes, and I still suspect that relay board.



Problem is, I am not familiar enough with that breed of cat to know for sure if they had one of those modules in that year.



I wrote back and told him to do what I said and check the main connector for that board first, and if that did not fix it, see if he could find that inhibit relay. If so, he probably could swap another relay like it long enough to see if the starter would fire.


The car is so low to the ground, its not likely I will be crawling under anytime soon.

The starter is fairly high up on that engine, but to get to it from above, the battery box will have to come out.



That is the next step in my plan if the relay board idea does not work out.

Then I can at least see if the solenoid is getting power when the key is turned.

It could very easily be a bad solenoid.



Anybody here know about a control module?
 

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