CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Anybody here PreLube??

Fordum

1 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Jul 31, 2008
Posts
11,474
Reaction score
2,318
Location
Fl
No, this does not belong in the lounge or pigpen.

I have played around with the idea of a preluber for years.

Many years ago, I saw a report from SAE, that stated that tests had shown 80% of engine wear occurs during startup before the oil pump gets up to pressure.
OK, if they are off by a factor of 2, that is still 40% of wear that occurs at startup
Which makes sense. Rod bearings and Mains normally run on a pressurized oil film.
When the sudden load hits, the oil is trapped between the bearing and the rod or crank and cannot squirt out fast enough.
This prevents the two surfaces from touching much.

When you first start the engine, there is oil in there, but its not full, so the surfaces touch.
They are lubed, but they do touch.

Prelubers cause the engine to have full oil pressure before it ever turns over.
I tend to keep my equipment a long time. I routinely expect 200k on an engine without any other than regular maintenance. I start looking for warning signs above 250K.
An extra 40% moves that to 350K.

Of course, there are wear points besides the mains and rod bearings, but prelubeing should help that too.

I keep saying I am going to install a preluber on the next new car or engine I get, but I never do.
However, if I had a turbo I would put one on no matter what.
The ones I like, use a pump to pressurize the oil system before you crank it, and keep running for a while after you shut it off to keep circulating the oil through the hot turbo.

Otherwise, the oil in the turbo just sits there and cooks after you stop the engine.

The cheaper ones, have a small pressurized tank with a check valve and a solenoid valve.
When the engine is running, oil is pumped into the tank to the max system oil pressure.
Then, when you turn the key back on, the solenoid valve opens and the oil flows back out to pressurize the system.

I like the pump better.

Most folks here though, will have blown up or upgraded their engine before any benefits show up.

But, I figured someone might be using one.
 
the higher end dizzles have em in the boats.. I see, and use them fairly frequently.. some big time hrs get put on those motors, in that time frame it is very beneficial...

obviously these are pretty high end electric pump driven systems.. iirc, each pump is in the $500 range...
 
I definitely agree with the pressurized system at start up.
My burb had a rod bearing start knocking at 140K+ and it would immediately go away when the oil pressure came up.
The rod knocking got to the point of always hearing it.
Would it have helped to have oil pressure at startup, I think so, it may have prevented the wear in the first place. But I have run SBC's over 200K before without problems, and have run them only a few thousand miles and needed bearing replacement. Usage has a lot to do with it I think too.
A turbo engine I could really see the benefit of having oil circulating til the heat was dissipated from the turbo housing....not sure what temps the oil is exposed to, but full syn would probably help there too.
 
Yep, that is my thinking. $500 is not cheap, but if you stack it against an extra 100K or more of useful motor life, its cheap.
 
Its been my experience that when the oil pressure gets lower than you usually expect to see the rod bearing end up being the problem and if you drop the pan and replace the bearings before it damages the crank and rod you'll be good to go.Bearing are cheep and on my 84 its nothing to get done on a saturday morning.A 383 I has developed a knock with 5psi at idle and seemed as though it was coming from the fuel pump area but go figure it was the #1 rod which is farthest away from the pump.The crank had some light grooving and had nothing to loose so replaced the bearings.I ran it another 4 years after then sold the short block to a friend who beat the pis out of it and as far as I know the guy who bought it from him is still going strong with it.
 
of coarse you never never shut down a turbo motor without idling for two minutes minimum as the shaft spins up around 100k when in boost. I learned the hard way in a 930 to the tune of 650.00:eek1:

I have run the accupressure systems (Morroso brand name I think?) Did nothing for start up but still helps IMO. If they had a valve now like you say that seems a cheap way to do the job you want. It holds at whatever your high pressure is. :woot:
 
I do know a guy that does usually very small plumbing jobs, kind of emergency things.

He drives an old 60s Ford van. Has a straight 6 in it and an electric preluber, he bought some years ago when he rebuilt the motor.

I asked him if he though it helped at all. His response, well the motor has about 10 years on it over 175k and I start it over 20 times a day on a slow day. It runs as good as it did the week I rebuilt it, so yes I think it has helped.

That was about 6 years ago and I saw him last year, same van, same motor.
 
Yep, that is my thinking. $500 is not cheap, but if you stack it against an extra 100K or more of useful motor life, its cheap.

I don't think you can expect to get that much more engine life just because of a preluber. I think they can only help, but they won't help piston rings or anything. Try it and let us know! :waytogo:
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom