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Anybody mess with the wiper delay module?

tRustyK5

tRustyK5

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Delay module on an '83 C1500. Today the wipers wouldn't shut off no matter what position i slid the switch to. I still have low speed and high speed...they just refused to shut off. When i got to work i unplugged the upper two blade plug...and now the wipers at least shut off.

Anything anyone can point me to as far as servicibilty (sp?) of the delay module? It was working just fine...then the next moment they wouldn't shut off.

I'm wondering if there could be contacts that can be cleaned or..?

Rene
 
When you get it apart, let me know. :)

I had a collection of 5 of the delay modules (my car, truck, and my friends all have vehicles that use these things) and I decided to test them the other day. I ended up with one in the trash (no delay at all) and one marked "finicky", :) while the other three passed ok.

I didn't have time to pull them apart, but there is certainly something in there that causes problems. The finicky one only had about 50% of the travel that did anything. On one end, and the wipers never moved. On the other end of travel of the switch the other direction, they acted like they were on low. Maybe 1/8" of switch travel between slow delay and fast delay.

They should come apart pretty easily, 9the ignition switch does for instance) I have no idea how they operate though.
 
Problem fixed thanks to CanmoreK5. The button is a bit sticky, so once in a blue moon when you use the washer the button doesn't come back all the way and the wipers stay on. I plugged the plug back in, gave the button a little tug outwards and it all works as it should now. All my problems should be this easy to fix. :doah:

it's pretty cool when the previous owner calls you up and helps you out with a 'quirk'.

Rene
 
Huh. Even on the non-dash mounted switches constant running tends to be a problem. Wonder if they are related to your issue?

Lucky you! :)
 
Paul mentioned this happened to him once and told me to try pulling out on thw switch. It could be this is what the common problem is. The switch is just closed enough to activate the wipers, but not completely closed so the washer isn't pumping. It could be the wiper control on the stalk can do the same thing.

Rene
 
wiper related question - on the firewall, inside the engine compartment, can someone post a pic of where the white wire is connected? i accidentally pulled that wire out and can't find the spot where the wire is connected to the firewall from the wiper motor.
 
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that's the best i could get in the dark. That wiring is dead stock and unmolested...hope it helps.

Rene
 
cool. i appreciate the pic, but it doesn't show me where the white wire goes to.
 
I see a white wire right next to the pink one going into the wiper washer, plus one going into the wipe rmotor below it.

That's an early setup with washer motor mounted on the wiper motor from the looks of it.

The later ones are wired a bit different.
 
that one is like mine. the issue is that i had to hot wire my wiper motor once when i was up at a ski resort so i could get down the mountain, and while i was trying to cut the white wire, i accidentally pulled it straight out of the firewall - so i don't know where it goes back in or how to reinstall it. so now, when ever i need my wiper blades, they are on a switch hanging precariously from my dash b/c i haven't been able to put it back together. it gets annoying to have only the "fast" speed here in the PNW b/c it usually drizzles, so i get to deal with the squeek alot. :(
 
So you are saying you need a picture of the engine bay side of the fuse panel connectors, right?
 
well, i guess that's what it would go to... somewhere. so yeah. :) mine's an '83 diesel like rene's.
 
Yes, that's where they run through the firewall, there are three separate connectors at the fuse panel, engine side, I *believe* the wiper ones are all on the same one of those three. Two narrow ones, one large: Lights, wipers, engine respectively?
 
Later trucks use a 10MM(head) bolt through the center of the fuse panel connector on the engine side, earlier might be a 3/8" head...it's quite simple to pull the bolt out, then the connector will pull out straight out from the firewall as far as the wiring will allow, and you slide the two smaller ones sideways out of the guides that are cast into the larger connector portion.

That should give you plenty of room to study the connector and see where your wire came from.

IMO if the wire broke right at the connector, its best to go to the wrecking yard, de-pin the exact white wire you need from a firewall connector, cut it off with a decent length of wire left on it, and solder that to your broken white wire. It's been awhile since I've de-pinned any of those connectors, I believe all you need is a thin wire papeclip inserted from the connector side right down the center of the pin (top or bottom, not sure which) and pull straight out on the wire. Won't take much force at all if you get the connector locking tab with the paperclip.
 
I have issues with mine too. Mine come on OK, .. but once you turn them on, you have to swivel the selector past off, to the manual "one wipe" and then release, to stop them. You have to time it so they are at the bottom of the winshield when they stop... lol.

I really need to spend a little time to see if I can correct it. Maybe I'll go tinker with for a while since it's been raining a lot.
 
Ok... fixed mine. Cleaned the plug connections, although they looked ok. Poped the black cover off and choke and carb cleaned the gears, and after they dried slathered them in wd-40. They work like a champ now.. shut off when they are supposed too.. and even my delay works again.
 
thanks dorian - that should make it alot easier. i didn't know you could move it out, so that should really help. thanks a ton. ill take a look at it friday i suppose. :)
 
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