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Anybody put a short lift on a Jeep Cherokee XJ?

AJMBLAZER

Better to be lucky than good.
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Only asking because a coworker of mine is a Jeep guy. Local 4x4 shop just closed on Friday and he never got to order his kit or have it installed. Screwed up his hip so he can't do it himself very easily anymore.

He's thinking just a front spacers and whatever lift in the rear. 2-3" and using the original control arms. I know, longer would be better but it's his Jeep, not mine.

Anybody done these? What's involved? It's a fairly late model Cherokee. The last body style and in pretty good shape so other than the usual rusty bolts and all I'm not too worried.

Anybody know which rear axle it would have or how to tell?
 
I got a friend with an XJ and he did a small lift at first. He used the ACOS coil spacer in front and I think he used an add aleaf in the rear and possibly a longer shackle as well. Rear is pretty self-explanitory if you've done a lift on any leaf sprung vehicle.

The front, I think he used a vehicle lift so he just unbolted the coil raised the truck up put in the spacer and then lowered it down. The rearend is 1 of two options Dana 35 (this has an oval shaped cover) or there's a chrysler one (sorry im no help here I forgot what this one looks like)
 
Yeah, I figure it can't be harder than the lift I did to our '03 Grand Vitara a few years back. A-arms + small space + CV shafts in the way + stiff coils + 2" spacer = the suck.

However my experience with Chrysler 4x4 in the past was my '99 Ram 1500 and I'm fully prepared for it to suck ass. Big POS under engineered and under built waste of my time and money...gag...

I've done coil springs on my Ranger, spacers on the Grand Vit, blocks, zero rates, and long AAL's on a bunch of vehicles...I guess I'm more looking to find out if there's any hidden surprises. Do the brake lines or drive shafts need any upgrading, lengthening, etc?

Yeah, it's the MOPAR 8.25" or the D35. I know there was a D44 option but I THINK that was in the early 90's or something.
 
Yeah, I figure it can't be harder than the lift I did to our '03 Grand Vitara a few years back. A-arms + small space + CV shafts in the way + stiff coils + 2" spacer = the suck.

However my experience with Chrysler 4x4 in the past was my '99 Ram 1500 and I'm fully prepared for it to suck ass. Big POS under engineered and under built waste of my time and money...gag...

I've done coil springs on my Ranger, spacers on the Grand Vit, blocks, zero rates, and long AAL's on a bunch of vehicles...I guess I'm more looking to find out if there's any hidden surprises. Do the brake lines or drive shafts need any upgrading, lengthening, etc?

Yeah, it's the MOPAR 8.25" or the D35. I know there was a D44 option but I THINK that was in the early 90's or something.
Im pretty sure he didnt have to do anything with his d-shafts. With the front brakelines he just made a little drop bracket, I think the rear was ok. The rear dana 44 was only offered in the early years (pre 90) and only if that vehicle came with the tow package. We found one in a junkyard last year and he just geared and locked it and put it in this summer
 
The Chrysler 8.25 has a ridge running sideways across the bottom of the cast housing that gives the diff kind of a square bottomed look. The D44 should have a roughly D-shaped cover. The lifts are easy to install, just take off the lower spring retainer and the shocks. That'll let you do one corner at a time.
 
Cool, thanks guys. I figure at worst we get them custom made at a place locally. I had to do this when I put the zero rates on Big Ugly. Try finding D60 U-bolts in Traverse City, MI.
 
Hey, AJM, my buddy's nephew lives in Traverse City. He's probably the only guy in town with an Isuzu P'up (winter use only). He was shocked I had heard of the place.:D
 
What color is it? I might have seen it. There's a few running around but they're all different colors and in various shades of paint and/or rust/neglect.
 
I think it was silver, but pretty beat. His summer car is a blue Subaru WRX STi. His name's Kevin if you want to mess with his head.:haha: "Oh hey Kevin, long time no see." "Who are you?" "You don't remember me?":D It's fun to make poeple think they're losing their minds.
 
There's a lot of crazy folk up here anyways. He'd probably think I was one of them.
 
The front end is pretty easy,newest Ive done was my 98 TJ or 95 XJ,both the same basically. I put it up on jack stands,unbolted the shock at the bottom or remove entirely if changing,disconnect the sway bar and remove the coil retainer clip that seems to only be installed on one side of the vehicle on some. Do this individually per the side your working on BTW, then simply push down a bit on the axle and the spring can manupilated out. if your adding spacers which are fine pluck out the rubber snubber from the cup holder and up inside the cup is a 14mm bolt if I recall,unscrew that and the retainer/cup comes off. Then you can remove the old small or just add the xtra spacer. Install is a reverse however the spring will be a bit tougher to slide back in. The diff will be held up a tad buy the lower A control arms bracket that has a bottom and acts like a stop of the arm. push harder,it will move down enough to get the spring in.
The rear is also easy,biggest pain if your swapping shackles is the upper bolt due to its access. AAL are OK and easy as well,If you can do the front the rear a pile of icing covered cake.
 
easy to work on.

and look up rusty's off road he has good info and great prices and products on jeep stuff.
 
Anybody know what the front spring rates are on these? I have external coil spring compressors but the problem I ran into with my Ranger and the Suzukis is their rates are like 500+ and oy, that's a lot of force to get them to compress a lot.
 
dont need compressors. thay pop out fairly easy. i have a few big pry bars at work that make it real easy.

i did a 2" lift spring on a jeep wrangler with the coils. 4 new shocks and all done in about 1.5 hrs first time install. and big note. DO NOT unbolt the trac bar on the rear for any reason if you can help it. thay are a pain to reinstall.

link to rusty's http://www.rustysoffroad.com/
 
He's buying the lift. I'm just installing it maybe. Frankly I told him to go find the Old Man Emu lift kit but he's going a cheaper route. Might not even do it, who knows?

XJ has leaf springs in the rear anyways.
 
fyi if he does more than around 2" he will need drive line work in the rear. like a slip yoke eliminator kit . the super short wheel base problem.

and soak all in pb blaster. good luck.

and i would tell him to at least look at rustys and stay clear of jcwhitney and there stuff. god i hat that crap and wont even install it at my work.
 
if hes wanting only 2in of lift he can use V8 Grand Cherokee w/ac sprigs in front and 2in block in back....will save alot of money


im using modded s10 springs in back and GC springs in front with 3in spacers on my 89 XJ...still gathering all parts together
 
Anybody know what the front spring rates are on these? I have external coil spring compressors but the problem I ran into with my Ranger and the Suzukis is their rates are like 500+ and oy, that's a lot of force to get them to compress a lot.

Somewhere in the 200 lbs/in. range, most lift manufacturers advertise their spring rates. Its also really easy to calculate coil spring rates if you know wire diameter, number of coils, diameter of the coil and overall height.
 
i have a 92 4 dr xj with a total of 5.5" of lift-2" budjet boost and 3.5"suspension- and the rear drive shaft is still stock with no vibrations.they are a simple rig to work on suspension wise.one thing to look for is the rear upper shock bolts like to break.actualy plan on then breaking they love to rust into place.
 
Sweet. Are they easy to replace or some sort of a stud welded in place from the factory?
 
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