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anybody running either of these headers?

beater_k20

beater_k20

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i'm thinking about replacing the manifolds on my K20 with a set of headers. the reason being, both of my manifolds are cracked. i'll be using the Dynomax 2 1/4" dual kit to replace the exhaust at the same time, so i might as well keep the brands the same so they fit together well. does anyone have experience with these headers?
wlk-85003_w.jpg

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WLK%2D85003&N=700+0&autoview=sku

the exhaust kit i'll be using...
wlk-89003_w.jpg

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WLK%2D89004&N=700+0&autoview=sku
 
I put the hookers on my trail project . I can tell you this much so far , they clear the frame with room for flex , and they cleared my shackles , cleared my starter , and just plain gave me less fits than the time I installed them in my 76 Chevelle :thumb:
 
i have a set of the dynomaxs, they fit really nice and have a pretty thick flange. I have not really ran them but I know projunkracing ran them for a while before i got them
 
so they came off of my truck. haha

i had a set of Dynomax headers on that truck when it was 2wd, and they were decent. nothing really to write home about. never owned a set of Hooker headers though. maybe they're better. :dunno:
 
I have had 2 different sets of Dynomax headers on my truck and would recommend against them. the flanges lines right up with the lower bolt in my shackles. I have the ORD shackles now but the stock ones did it to. I can take some pics if it would help you. I also bought the complete kit from Dynomax thinking the same thing as you. same company and it should all work together. hard torque or flex causes contact betweent the flange and the bolt.

Don't bother getting the coated ones either from dynomax. the first set I bought was painted black like in your picture. they lasted one year. The second set was coated from Dynomax, lifetime finish, yeah right. they are good and rusted now. Unless you plan on changing to a big block then spend a little extra to get a set headers that will out last your truck. Go stainless.
 
I have run the dynomax headres and now run hookers they are a much better quality . as for the rest of your exhaust why buy a kit???? Are there no good exhaust shpos in the town you live in?
 
I have used Hedman, Hooker and Dynomax, Hooker on my 1st gen Camaro, Hedman and Dynomax on past (RIP) Blazers and Flowtech on my current K5,
the only ones I cant complain about are the Hooker
 
there are several exhaust shops in town, however nobody mandrel bends, and if they did, it wouldnt be cheap. my C10 had the Dynomax kit on it, and it was fully mandrel bent, not crimped like a regular muffler shop exhaust. around here, header back duals will run you $250+, depending on how you want it done.
 
I see, I guess were lucky we have 3 shops in town with mandrel benders a set off 3" duals with 4"x24" chrome tips $180 plus mufflers ...... well unless you want glasspacks they come in the price
 
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DTE%2D364Y&N=700+0&autoview=sku

Here are some Doug Thorleys which I might add just came down in price. They have 3/8s flanges, 14 gauge tubing, tri-y design, and are nickel-chrome plated. If you want to go fancier then go for ceramic coat Thorleys.

dte-364yc_w.jpg


Or the top of the line Hooker Headers:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HOK%2D2827%2D1HKR&N=700+4294923429+4294839039+4294918680+4294908216+4294907043+4294880275+4294902409+4294908181+4294840140+115&autoview=sku

hok-2451-1.jpg
 
its a stock truck, i cant see dropping a bunch of coin on a set of headers for a truck that will only be driven occasionally.

i'm leaning more towards the Hookers.
 
I run the hooker headers and exhaust kit and like others said it clears everything and fits good haven't had a problem with it except i upgraded a couple of exhaust hangers that had broke.
 
I'm running Dynomax with heat wrap.

CONS:

1. I think the block flanges are too thin.

2. The passenger side rear shackle lines up with the header flange as previously stated. You can get around that by taking the bottom shackle bolt out and reversing it's position so the bolt head is towards the header.

3. One header tube developed a crack next to the header block flange and had to be tack welded

PROS:

1. Dynomax flows well

2. They don't cost much


Honestly the best headers I've ever seen are Thorleys. The only experience I had with Hooker brand was on my Cuda, there was interference with the auto shifter linkage.
 
jiminycricket said:
I'm running Dynomax with heat wrap.


3. One header tube developed a crack next to the header block flange and had to be tack welded
Click to expand...

think there's a connection there?
 
beater_k20 said:
think there's a connection there?
Click to expand...

No, I had the problems long before I put on heat wrap, just added that last year and I've had the headers since 2001.
 
i decided to cheap out a bit and buy the Dynomax setup. ordered it Monday night, and it was here waiting when i got home. now i've just got to get the truck down here so i can rip everything off of it. it has holes in the tranny lines, cracks in both manifolds, and one of the mufflers rusted off. oh, and its supposed to snow tomorrow.:crazy:
 
looking back, i should have gone with the Hooker setup. its mandrel bent, where the Dynomax kit is compression bent. oh well, im sure i'll get to replace it at some point.
 
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