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Anyone blown an OE Spicer hub on a 60?

P

pcorssmit

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I'm sitting here on hold w/Six States to order my 35 spline stub shafts. I'm still undecided on whether to buy the Warn lockouts or modify my stock ones. I know at least one guy thats blown a Warn, but don't know anyone w/the Spicers. So, has anyone broken (or seen) a Spicer hub (Dana 60), not counting failures due to blown stub shafts?

Also, if you've had your's modified, how much and where? I can get a local shop to do it, but need to provide a drawing of the splines. Any info?

Thanks,

Pete

'83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
'97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
 
A friend of mine is using Spicer hubs that were modified for use with 35 spline stubs. I'm not 100% sure, but I don't believe he has ever broken one. He's running 42x15 Swampers, a moderately health 454, and a Detroit and 4.88 gears in the front.
 
Pete, I would check into getting the OEM Spicer units. They have more metal and are a better material too.

ORU yellow '57 uses the 35 spline outers and Spicer lockouts. Their motor makes something like 700 to 800 horsepower. Those Spicers have to be strong enough to hold up to that much HP!!!
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<font color=red>I'm a "black top mudder"!!!</font color=red>

<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy</a>
 
Already got the Spicers. Came w/my axle, been running them a couple years. Blew the dial on one, but can get another one along w/a spare hub. emailed ORU about it.

Also emailed Warn about a normal type (non-set screw) hub for this app. I don't see why you couldn't mix'n'match the 35 spline internals w/a regular 30 spline dial to make it work.

Pete

'83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
'97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
 
ORU says $75 each. ouch. Would really like to find specs (drawing) on how to do it.

Pete

'83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
'97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
 
Pete-
Is that the cost for the whole spicer hub or just the internals? I know the Warns run $100 each. Thinking about getting another for a spare. I don't mind having the hub as the wink link. It's much easier to replace a hub than it is to replace the shaft(s)/ujoint.

Shawn
87 K5
few mods
smile.gif

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.off-road.com/chevy>www.off-road.com/chevy</a>
 
Shawn makes a good point here.

If you were to break down, it would be easier and faster to change a lock out rather than change a broken u-joint, if it were to break, and therefore you lose down time with disassembly of the hubs, rotors, calipers, spindles, etc.

Much faster and easier to change hubs, so the money spent on hubs will make the other people on the trail much happier to get you out of the way!!!
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<font color=red>I'm a "black top mudder"!!!</font color=red>

<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy</a>
 
The cost is to modify my hub. The Spicers have been out of production for like 20 years. I didn't ask them if they broach them, use a wire machine, or what.

Six states told me $185.71 for the pair of Warns.

As for the hub breaking first, I understand the concept, but I don't want to break anything. I hate broken parts. I'm not exactly running a ton of power though, either.

Pete

'83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
'97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
 
I agree.. build it so nothing breaks.. I know thats not always feasible but I dont like the idea of having a "fuse" in the drivetrain.. if everything cant hold up, I dont like the idea of downgrading another part so it purposely breaks.. call me crazy :) just my way of thinking. then again what do I know, my truck is mostly stock

mike
 
Update: here's Warn's reply to my inquiry:

"The hublock you are referring to is our 35 spline hublock for our Dana 60 rear full floater kit. These hubs were not designed or tested for use on the front of a vehicle, only for our rear full floater kit. At this time we are not planning on making any other 35 spline hublocks."


Pete

'83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
'97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
 
Designed or tested??? WTF? Its the same thing as the D60 30 spline hub except it has that stupid blocker ring which you can easily remove.

You know... Warn could make so much $$$ if they made an "Extreme" 35 spline D60 hub. I guess they don't realize the potential. Too bad MM wouldn't make a set either.

I think I will buy an extra Warn as a spare. The allen wrench thing isn't too bad as long as you always carry it. I kind of like it since no punk can just walk by and lock in a hub as a joke. I abused them Saturday on Hackett with no problems. I was really gunning the BBC's throttle on the 1st obsticle.

Did you get your 35 spline outers yet? I just saw a set on ebay if you do a search for dana 60.

Shawn
87 K5
few mods
smile.gif

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.off-road.com/chevy>www.off-road.com/chevy</a>
 
Ordered them Fri, should be here tomorrow/Weds.

Pete

'83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
'97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
 
How much for the stubs and where? Just curious since I forgot what I paid for mine.

Shawn
87 K5
few mods
smile.gif

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.off-road.com/chevy>www.off-road.com/chevy</a>
 
I broke a joint up in Kremling with a warn hub. It was at full right turn, so that made a difference I'm sure.
I've seen a 35 spline warn hub with no set screw, but it was on Pat Gremillion's Bronco and he didn't even realize one had the screw one didn't at the time. So we don't know what happened. I loctited the set screws and haven't touched them since.

If you really don't want to break, run drive gears!

I personally like having something built to break that's easy to fix, but it's not always an easy thing to do. And now I have a truck with no weak links so I blow a joint out of a D60 front and waste an inner and outer shaft and the joint. Not sure of the sense of it all.....

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
SW-ORD
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
 
I think it's about time ORD comes out with their own hubs! I'd buy em in a second!
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Seams like they want twice as much for the drive gears.

With the long slip driveshaft, it seams like it has vibes at higher speeds. I like to be able to unlock mine. It's also better for when I have to cruise the mall...
smile.gif


Shawn
87 K5
few mods
smile.gif

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.off-road.com/chevy>www.off-road.com/chevy</a>
 
Actually, the drive gear set is within about $5 of a hub set. You're right, being able to unlock the hubs is nice, and really they hold up pretty well.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
SW-ORD
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
 
Got the stubs from 6 states, used numbers you posted some time ago (found w/search). $73.xx each, plus actual shipping.

I'm w/Shawn on being able to unlock them, I don't like the way mine drives w/the hubs locked in 2wd w/the Detroit.

Pete

'83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
'97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
 
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