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Anyone else NOT happy with there 14FF rear disk conversion?

hidesertwheelin

hidesertwheelin

1/2 ton status
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I'm not. I'm thinking about going back to drums. The peddle has always felt spongy, since the day I installed it (And yes It's been bleed, with all new fluid. The fluid in it before the swap was black). Just not sure I trust it completely. I'm just pissed I dumped all the money into the swap, not to mention the caddy calipers.
 
i just bought a set of twisted engineerings complete kit. itll be in by the end of the week, ill let you know...
 
search for master cylinder - 4 wheel disc setup....lots of research to do with a braking system. For some it works with stock prop valve, and m/c and others have results like you are having.
 
You just may not have them dialed it yet. What MC do you have?
 
Mine sucked for awhile and then it started working good one day

I took of the rear prop valve, and put a one ton master on. But it still wasn't good for awhile after that.

Some one said that there is some kind of safety valve in the front proportion block.
 
I love mine. Awesome braking performance.

I'm using a Sky Engineering setup with 3/4-ton calipers/rotors/pads and the stock proportioning valve. I've got 35" mud terrains and hydroboost, FYI.

I think a lot of folks end up unhappy with the caddy caliper performance. They require alot of setup and maintenance, but I'm not sure about their braking force compared to 3/4-ton truck calipers.

You also want to make sure your master cylinder is in good shape. A brake setup can sometimes highlight problems with an inadequate MC.
 
I have been pondering this swap also, from drums to disc. I don`t recall the Caddy calipers ever being all that good as I remember. i think I`d go to the 3/4 ton stuff and do a hydraulic park brake or one off the t-case.
 
i did k30 hydro boost / master.

then willwood adj valve and ditch factory valve.

then dana 60 front and 14ff rear with 1/2 ton calipers.

loved it.

now if you had black fluid chances are the master is tore up on the inside. ditch it and get a new one. but search the garage for the disk brake master thread. its got good info to realy dile it in.
 
I'd never go back to drums on my 14ff. I can lockup all 4 of my tires easily. I'm using a stock replacement master cylinder for my 87 K5 and the factory prop valve. Have 3/4 ton calipers at all four corners.

I know some people have have had problems with the Caddy calipers. I thought it was just with the e-brake though.
 
Make sure that the vacuum line running to your booster is actually VACUUM line, not a piece of fuel line that the PO thought was "just as good"..... :rolleyes:

My brakes were underwhelming until that hose was discovered and replaced with a proper vacuum hose. Afterwards I stopped so well I almost went through the windshield a few times until I got used to things.

The problem has to be somewhere else...either an improperly sized master cylinder (based on the amount of fluid you now need to move) or some other worn brake system component.



:usaflag:
 
Sometimes I wonder if some people may benefit from a residual pressure valve. Never played with one personally but may be just the same for some.
 
I have the stock 1/2=ton burb MC in it, with the proportioning/anti-lock thing. I guess I will do more research on master cylinders for it.
 
I am running a stock master and booster. My 60 has stock brakes and the 70 has Kert's (DIY4x4). The brake pedal feel is better than stock and the performance is great.

Are your rear pads in good contact? A 99 3500 4wd master has been shown to resolve some pedal and feel problems. Adding a 10# residual valve may also increase pedal feel and performance by keeping the rear pads from releasing.

What combination of parts are you running?
 
hidesertwheelin said:
I'm not. I'm thinking about going back to drums. The peddle has always felt spongy, since the day I installed it (And yes It's been bleed, with all new fluid. The fluid in it before the swap was black). Just not sure I trust it completely. I'm just pissed I dumped all the money into the swap, not to mention the caddy calipers.
Click to expand...

A spongy pedal means there is still air trapped in the system. It is not uncommon to have to remove the rear calipers and put a block of wood between the pads and then hold the caliper so that the bleeder screw is pointing EXACTLY straight up. Sometimes you have to tap on the caliper with a hammer to get the air pocket to move around in order to get the brake bled properly.
 
^^^^ You may not have all the air out. Use a power bleeder if you can and do as he suggested. My setup is great with the stock master, good pedal that I get after about 1.5 inches. I may play with the master at somepoint, but its the stock one for now.

Even though you may have bleed it, your prop valve could still be stuck blocking off brake pressure to the rear circuit. I know mine got flow out of it but the valve didn't reset. The way I figured out my prop valve was still stuck, I replaced my dash lights and the BRAKE light was burnt out. I opened all four bleeders with a power bleeder on it, and pumped the pedal until the light went out and it reset.
 
hmmm, I have the opposite problem with my rear discs! My rear tires actually lock up before my front ones do! haha. I'm guessing its all in the prop valve, I'm not to worried about it, its a trail only rig.
 
K10 KRAWLER said:
hmmm, I have the opposite problem with my rear discs! My rear tires actually lock up before my front ones do! haha. I'm guessing its all in the prop valve, I'm not to worried about it, its a trail only rig.
Click to expand...

Thats way worse if its a trail rig. The last thing you want is a heavy rear bias if you are heading down a slick muddy slope and have the rear lock up and then want to swap ends! Get an adjustable proportioning valve from summit and plumb it in.
 
I run a master cylinder off a 1985ish CUCV/ K30 C&C along with the hydroboost and aftermarket pump the brakes are amazing. Stock Dana 60 front brakes and 3/4 ton Chevy rotors and calipers in the back, stock prop. valve. I have ran Caddy e-brake calipers and did not like the funky adjusters. I have also ran a corvette mc with good 4 wheel discs brakes but I dont remember what year it was for.
 
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