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Anyone ever 'build' their own half cab?

S

Stumpuller

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So I was hit with divine inspiration.

I remeber a blazer running around my town when I was younger that looked like somone grafted the back of a pickup cab onto the blazer and made it into a unibody pickup thing. it looked good! they did a fine job, but i dont remeber quite how they did the bottom.

Now id like to try the same thing with my 87, but id like to make it removable. gaskets an' all. im not even sure if it will work, or even if the contour of the pickup cabs are the same as the blazers. but ive got a rotted out 74 cab up here with a sliding rear glass that is begging to be chopped up!
any ideas?
 
There used to be a conversion kit that consisted of a fiberglass back with a window in it. I don't think the pickups are the same, but you could probably work something out.

The original design came down to the floor and sealed the back of the half cab up. Someone on the board actually talked to one company that used to make them, but the price was prohibitive, but I believe they may have been willing to let the pattern go.
 
Check this out!
http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/projects/rec62.pdf

The REC rear cab panel design (90-6200C) is
mostly made of 14 gauge steel sheets and a
portion of the existing cargo box “cap.” Steel
cutting and bending equipment will be required.

The steel sheet is too thin to cut with an
acetylene torch. Warpage will be too great.
Plasma or saw cutting are best. If you do not
have this capability, take the drawings to a steel
supplier. Full service steel warehouses will cut
and form the pieces for you.

Be careful of warpage when welding these
pieces as well. The design is set up for MIG
welding with corner joints meeting inside corner
to inside corner.

The drawings for this design are found in
Appendix B. Fabrication follows the process
below.​
§​
​
The front portion of the original cap is cut off
as shown in drawing 90-6201B. This part
fits and seals properly to the back of the
“cab” top and will help us form an extension
to the cab top. See Photos 1 and 2 in
Appendix A.​

§​
​
The cab back (90-6209B) aligns with the
front edge of the cargo floor. The existing
cargo floor screws are used to fasten the
panel to the floor. Seal between the cab
back and the floor with 1/8 inch thick closed
cell foam strips to reduce the potential of
water entering the cab. Two pieces of angle
stiffen the panel.​

§​
​
Two mounting angles (90-6205B and 90-
6206B) secure the cab back (90-6209B) to
the inside of cargo box sides. Closed cell
foam will be needed to fill the gaps between
the angles and the box sides. See Photo 3
in Appendix A.​

§​
​
The cap back (90-6203B) bolts on top of the
cab back (90-6206B). It is cut to match the
curves of the modified cap (90-6201B).​

§​
​
The steel cap top halves (90-6202B) are
formed over the top of the modified cap (90-
6201B) by wrapping and bolting it to the
modified cap. The cap back (90-6203B) is
then welded to these parts and all seems
are welded water tight. See Photos 4 and 5
in Appendix A. Tack weld in position only.
Remove for finish welding to reduce damage
to modified cap.​

§​
​
Use silicone caulk to seal between gaps.​

§​
​
Install a window with gasket. An auto glass​

dealer can help with this.
 
GOD I LOVE BLUE PRINTS!!!! now if i can only find some to build a t bucket body haha!


This is just what i need. I am a fabricator by trade again. so I have acess to all sorts of metal/ torches/ plasma cutters/welders implements of construction and destruction. and my own welder at home.
I hate to hack up my top but my buddy is getting ready to junk one that i sold him in the first place, so maybe i can get it off his....
hmmm... bow tie shaped back window... too tacky you think?
 
In the 80's I did one like shown here. Used the short section of the removable shell. Built a separate lower out of glass over MDF. The 2 pieces went in separate and sealed well.
 
blazerboss 85 said:
did you ever end up getting the kit
Click to expand...

Not yet... money is a serious consideration right now. I'm hoping that I'll finally be able to throw some $$$ into the K5 within the next 2-3 months.

I do think it'd make the truck way more versatile. For sure, the heat and A/C would work better with the smaller space to heat or cool. That and the mini "top" would be extremely easy for one person to remove in case you wanted to go "topless".

I'd personally leave the steel bulkhead in place permanently to keep my crap in the back from sliding forward and hitting the front seats--since I've sold my back seat and have no plans to ever have rear passengers.
 
I was playing around with the plasma table tonight. there is already a bowtie stored in the shapes! all i have to do is get the contour, lay it out and let the machine do the rest! i think it would look great with a big bowtie back glass. i just hope rob will come off that other top. i hate to butcher mine....
 
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