Mudbug1979
1/2 ton status
List of materials, pics, how to's? Anything? Thanks. I have done some searching but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for.
CK5
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Anyone got a tech article or write up on thier twin sticked Np203?
- Thread starter Mudbug1979
- Start date
copied this from PIRATE4x4.com a week or so ago, there are pics just search over there. I saved them but they did not save on my computer correctly /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
QUOTE:
""I have already had a couple requests for this info so I did a write up and
am posting it here. Please excuse me if my terminology is incorrect
The way I did it was to start by taking apart one of the shifters paying
close attention to the way the plates go together. To take apart the casing,
bend the little tab straight, remove the two 1/4" nuts/bolts, and the large
nut/bolt that the unit pivots on. Leave the bolt itself going through to
hold the plates in place. Lift off half the casing.
This is where you pay close attention to the way the plates are layed in
there. Study it until you know it very well. Mark them somehow if you need
to. One of the engagment plates is longer than the other. Make sure you
don't flip flop them or you may not have enough adjustment in the rods.
Take it apart cleaning all parts completely as you go. When you get down to
the shift lever itself, you will notice that the little detent pin is inside
a casing that is spot welded to the lever in 4 places. Remove the detent pin
and all components. Take a grinder and grind down the 4 spot welds until you
can remove that casing from the shift lever.
Now take your clean shift lever and clamp the apropriate plate to the lever
in the same position as if the detent pin was still there. When you are sure
it's right, spot weld the engagment plate to the shift lever.
Now you will take apart the other shifter assembly and all you need out of
it is the shift lever. Again grind down the 4 spot welds and remove the
detent casing from the lever. the only other parts I used were 4 washers
that will fit around the pivot bushing.
This is where you will need to re-shape the 2nd lever a bit. All I did was
hold them together and mark 2 spots where I wanted it to bend, then I cut a
groove in it about 3/4 of the thickness of the shifter with my grinder so I
was able to slowly bend it to the shape I wanted it, then welded the grooves
back up. If you have a torch you could probably heat and bend it also but I
just used what I had. You may also have to turn the bolts for the chrome
lever around so the heads are facing each other for maximum clearance.
What I did next once the lever was shaped properly was to use a 1/4" bolt
going through the neutral alignment holes in the bottom of the engagment
plates to hold them in position as they were stock, and clamp the 2nd
engagment plate and 2nd lever to the other plate/lever while aligning your
shift levers so they will be even in the cab. Keep in mind that the 2
engagment plates go BETWEEN the 2 levers so they ride close to each other as
they did stock. when satisfied, spot weld the 2nd plate/lever as before.
You will need to grind the pin and the upper "bump" from the inside of one
of the shifter casing halves so there is no obstruction. The other side
needs nothing done to it.
At this point I did a preassembly of the parts as follows.
You will have 1 washer on the inside against the casing, then your inside
shift lever assembly, followed by 2 more washers, then the outside lever
assembly, and one washer on the outside against the outside casing which I
filed down slightly so that it was the exact thickness so the levers move
freely when the pivot bolt is all the way tight yet will not be loose enough
so the shifters rattle.
Once you have them pre-assembled, you will see that the levers will move
more in one direction than the other. I was unsure if it would be enough
throw for engagment so I marked the plates where they hit the casing on the
short side and took it back apart and used a grinder to cut a notch in the
long plate and ground some on the shorter plate also. When I was satisfied
that there would be enough throw to the levers, I simply assembled it all as
before using light axle grease on all the pivot points and the pivot
bushing.
Install your new assembly back on the truck, align the neutral position with
your 1/4" bolt and adjust your rods accordingly. I had to cut my floorboard
back about an inch or so but I have a 3" body lift so I am unsure if it
would need it without the body lift.
Reading back over this, it seems a little confusing and pretty involved but
it's really not very hard. I wish I had taken pictures before installing it.
If you need me to clarify anything feel free to send a PM or contact me at
[email protected]
I have found that the T-case shifter boot from a 86 Bronco II will work
great for this. I picked up 2 of them today at the local salvage yard and it
will be perfect. My shifters are about 2" apart. These boots are rectangular
and measure about 2.5"x7" so if you overlap the bottom plate they will work
great. They are very flexible so if your sticks end up a little closer or
wider(depends how you modify your levers) , they will still work. All you
need to do is fab up a hold down ring to go around both.
Ok ladies and gentlemen, here are the pics I promised.
The trim ring you are seeing here is from a Hurst single shifter boot
available at Kragen or the like that the previous owner had in there. I
think Hurst has a big one and a smaller one, this of course is the bigger
one. The ring just happened to be the perfect size to fit around the 86
Bronco II boots which are overlapped a bit at the bottom as mentioned
before. Mine are a little squishy at the top due to the 3" body lift but if
you have no body lift, there is still plenty of expansion in them. And
please, no comments about my birdshit welds . They aren't too pretty but
they work and are under the floor anyway . Enjoy!
QUOTE:
""I have already had a couple requests for this info so I did a write up and
am posting it here. Please excuse me if my terminology is incorrect
The way I did it was to start by taking apart one of the shifters paying
close attention to the way the plates go together. To take apart the casing,
bend the little tab straight, remove the two 1/4" nuts/bolts, and the large
nut/bolt that the unit pivots on. Leave the bolt itself going through to
hold the plates in place. Lift off half the casing.
This is where you pay close attention to the way the plates are layed in
there. Study it until you know it very well. Mark them somehow if you need
to. One of the engagment plates is longer than the other. Make sure you
don't flip flop them or you may not have enough adjustment in the rods.
Take it apart cleaning all parts completely as you go. When you get down to
the shift lever itself, you will notice that the little detent pin is inside
a casing that is spot welded to the lever in 4 places. Remove the detent pin
and all components. Take a grinder and grind down the 4 spot welds until you
can remove that casing from the shift lever.
Now take your clean shift lever and clamp the apropriate plate to the lever
in the same position as if the detent pin was still there. When you are sure
it's right, spot weld the engagment plate to the shift lever.
Now you will take apart the other shifter assembly and all you need out of
it is the shift lever. Again grind down the 4 spot welds and remove the
detent casing from the lever. the only other parts I used were 4 washers
that will fit around the pivot bushing.
This is where you will need to re-shape the 2nd lever a bit. All I did was
hold them together and mark 2 spots where I wanted it to bend, then I cut a
groove in it about 3/4 of the thickness of the shifter with my grinder so I
was able to slowly bend it to the shape I wanted it, then welded the grooves
back up. If you have a torch you could probably heat and bend it also but I
just used what I had. You may also have to turn the bolts for the chrome
lever around so the heads are facing each other for maximum clearance.
What I did next once the lever was shaped properly was to use a 1/4" bolt
going through the neutral alignment holes in the bottom of the engagment
plates to hold them in position as they were stock, and clamp the 2nd
engagment plate and 2nd lever to the other plate/lever while aligning your
shift levers so they will be even in the cab. Keep in mind that the 2
engagment plates go BETWEEN the 2 levers so they ride close to each other as
they did stock. when satisfied, spot weld the 2nd plate/lever as before.
You will need to grind the pin and the upper "bump" from the inside of one
of the shifter casing halves so there is no obstruction. The other side
needs nothing done to it.
At this point I did a preassembly of the parts as follows.
You will have 1 washer on the inside against the casing, then your inside
shift lever assembly, followed by 2 more washers, then the outside lever
assembly, and one washer on the outside against the outside casing which I
filed down slightly so that it was the exact thickness so the levers move
freely when the pivot bolt is all the way tight yet will not be loose enough
so the shifters rattle.
Once you have them pre-assembled, you will see that the levers will move
more in one direction than the other. I was unsure if it would be enough
throw for engagment so I marked the plates where they hit the casing on the
short side and took it back apart and used a grinder to cut a notch in the
long plate and ground some on the shorter plate also. When I was satisfied
that there would be enough throw to the levers, I simply assembled it all as
before using light axle grease on all the pivot points and the pivot
bushing.
Install your new assembly back on the truck, align the neutral position with
your 1/4" bolt and adjust your rods accordingly. I had to cut my floorboard
back about an inch or so but I have a 3" body lift so I am unsure if it
would need it without the body lift.
Reading back over this, it seems a little confusing and pretty involved but
it's really not very hard. I wish I had taken pictures before installing it.
If you need me to clarify anything feel free to send a PM or contact me at
[email protected]
I have found that the T-case shifter boot from a 86 Bronco II will work
great for this. I picked up 2 of them today at the local salvage yard and it
will be perfect. My shifters are about 2" apart. These boots are rectangular
and measure about 2.5"x7" so if you overlap the bottom plate they will work
great. They are very flexible so if your sticks end up a little closer or
wider(depends how you modify your levers) , they will still work. All you
need to do is fab up a hold down ring to go around both.
Ok ladies and gentlemen, here are the pics I promised.
The trim ring you are seeing here is from a Hurst single shifter boot
available at Kragen or the like that the previous owner had in there. I
think Hurst has a big one and a smaller one, this of course is the bigger
one. The ring just happened to be the perfect size to fit around the 86
Bronco II boots which are overlapped a bit at the bottom as mentioned
before. Mine are a little squishy at the top due to the 3" body lift but if
you have no body lift, there is still plenty of expansion in them. And
please, no comments about my birdshit welds . They aren't too pretty but
they work and are under the floor anyway . Enjoy!
