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anyone know anything about this product?

Its cheap enough and seller has great feedback, I think it would be worth a chance.
 
73redblaze said:
1st: why would a tie rod not connect? because its not tapered? and
2nd: im running heim joints so i think it will be ok.
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I don't know off the top of my head how much off-axis a TRE will go... I'm trying to remember from doing my truck.

Plus, err ... the taper is only an issue for high-steer, for arm-to-arm ... if you're just doing crossover, only the draglink connects to the arm, and it's coming in at an angle anyway.

I think that's a "never mind" ... :doah:

-- A
 
The ball joint axis points inward (i.e. the lower ball joints is further outboard than the upward one) at 10 degrees or so. If you bolt a joint to a flat arm like that, your draglink end will be at 10 degrees more angle than it should be and that very well could be enough to bind the steering under articulation.

Look on this page about a third of the way down, there's a picture and explanation. That's the D60 page but the same thing applies to the 10 bolts and D44's.
 
ball joints yes but heim joints as well? sorry if im an idiot but im not seeing how this wont work unless the joint will bind aginst the arm when flexed
 
73redblaze said:
ball joints yes but heim joints as well? sorry if im an idiot but im not seeing how this wont work unless the joint will bind aginst the arm when flexed
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Yes, that. The top of the knuckle isn't actually level to the rest of the truck, so the beveled bit on e.g. WFO's knuckle brings it back to level.

That make sense? I'm waving my hands about to show you, but that doesn't work so well on the forum :haha:

Depending on lift and spring configuration etc etc, the draglink will have some angle to it, so the extra angle of the unmachined arm may or may not be an issue. I'd have to go look at my truck and wave my hands some more to sort out which direction the knuckles are angled.

-- A
 
73redblaze said:
It all makes perfect since now. I guess since my knuckle is not machined yet i can have the arm machined at an angle at the same time. It would still be cheaper than buying a $100 + arm wouldnt it?/QUOTE]

You may or may not have a problem depending on your setup. The hole needs to be drilled at an angle so it's not a simple flywheel operation. Unless you have a buddy like Scott, it would easily cost $60+ to redrill a larger hole at the right angle and then machine the face.



-Brian
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so the polyperformance one would be the way to go because i have it tapered if i need it or not?
 
73redblaze said:
so the polyperformance one would be the way to go because i have it tapered if i need it or not?
Click to expand...

If you're going to run Heim joints then the hole in the arm MUST be drilled to the proper size for the bolt and CANNOT be a tapered hole for a TRE. :deal:
 
38377k5 said:
The ball joint axis points inward (i.e. the lower ball joints is further outboard than the upward one) at 10 degrees or so. If you bolt a joint to a flat arm like that, your draglink end will be at 10 degrees more angle than it should be and that very well could be enough to bind the steering under articulation.

Look on this page about a third of the way down, there's a picture and explanation. That's the D60 page but the same thing applies to the 10 bolts and D44's.
Click to expand...


Can't argue with that....
 
73redblaze said:
It all makes perfect since now. I guess since my knuckle is not machined yet i can have the arm machined at an angle at the same time. It would still be cheaper than buying a $100 + arm wouldnt it? or this might be the way to go
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop...ogle&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=4X4products
Click to expand...

I think if you look at the knuckle and what would happen if you machine it at an angle you'd see that there isn't going to be much material left.

You're definitely best off getting an arm with the angle machined into it, you really want one that is machined flat as well because raw steel isn't smooth and that friction between the knuckle and steering arm is what keeps shear off of the studs (which is what breaks them).
 
4X4HIGH said:
If you're going to run Heim joints then the hole in the arm MUST be drilled to the proper size for the bolt and CANNOT be a tapered hole for a TRE. :deal:
Click to expand...
i have misalignment spacers so the heims will be the same size as the hole and il ask if they can give me a arm with no taper
 
73redblaze said:
i have misalignment spacers so the heims will be the same size as the hole and il ask if they can give me a arm with no taper
Click to expand...

Correct me if i'm wrong but aren't misalignment spacers nothing more than a spacer that the OD is no larger than the flat portion of the sperical ball of the Heim that allows you to space the Heim joint away from (in this case the steering arm) in order to keep angularity to a minimum? If so then they have nothing to do with the taper in the steering arm and my statement still stands true that the hole in the arm MUST be a straight hole of the correct diameter for the bolt being used.

Ok, I just checked out what the misalignment spacer is and i'm correct, you MUST have a straight hole in the arm for the given size bolt you're going to use.
 
Maybe the spacers are not what im refering to. the heims i have are 3/4" that step down spacers to the give you the proper size. you can get them in many sizes. so i will just need to get the spacers to fit the machined hole.
 
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