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Anyone know anything about trailer brakes?

76k5blazerr

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So as most of you know, I got a 6.5x16 car hauler on a trade a couple weeks ago. It's a sweet rig, extremely well built, sturdy and strong (not homemade though). I'm not sure what brand it is but it's a good old trailer. Anyway, the only downfall is the braking system is not hooked up. One of the axles has brakes on it but there is no "control box" to control the brakes. Pardon my ignorance, I've never owned a trailer with electric brakes, I've always had surge brakes. Anyway, just hoping someone can educate me on electronic trailer braking systems and tell me what I need to buy to set this trailer up and make these brakes work so I can haul heavy sh!t!
 
Its very typical to only have brakes on one axle on a normal car trailer. They can be added to the other axle but I havent found the need with mine hauling my fat blazer around. Youll need a trailer brake controller thatll work woth your tow truck. I got mine off amazon pretty cheap. I assume you have the 7 pin connector or its equivalent on the tow hitch?
 
Yes. The trailer has a 7 pin connector, it is old and crappy though, the lights are shotty as well. I plan to replace the lights and rewire them all when I get the brakes working, and put on a new 7 pin connector.
 
Yes. The trailer has a 7 pin connector, it is old and crappy though, the lights are shotty as well. I plan to replace the lights and rewire them all when I get the brakes working, and put on a new 7 pin connector.

Good idea. All that stuff is super cheap. Are you towing with a newer truck? The brake controller is pretty much plug and play if its a newer truck. The e brakes are great... a little grabby but damn they stop good!
 
I love etrailer.com for their how-to's and wiring diagrams and such. I've also bought tons of stuff there, not bad, not necessarily the cheapest place in the world, but nice folks and they have a phone number to call to talk to a human in a pinch.

They'll have all the diagrams you need to rewire the trailer yourself, plus any parts required, both for the trailer and the tow rig if you need a controller.

As mentioned, the controller goes in the tow rig; the electric brakes are basically just drums with a solenoid instead of a hydraulic cylinder to activate them.

-- A
 
Gotcha, right now I tow it with an 03 suburban that has the 7 pin connector but no brake controller. I'm hoping to get a friend of my mothers 97 dodge 2500 cummins in the spring. It already has a controller. So basically what you guys are saying is that all I need on the trailer is the brake drums on the axle and then wires going from the drums to the 7 pin plug?
 
Does it have a brake away switch and battery on the trailer?
 
No there is not breakaway or battery.

Consider hooking one up. Hopefully you will never need it, but its nice when sh*t happens.
As for the brakes, pretty much all of them work the same way. You have a thick plate on the brake drum around the hub. There is an electromagnet that rubs lightly on that plate. Its mounted on an arm that actuates the brakes like the wheel cylinder on a hydraulic drum brake.

As you put power to the magnet, it gets dragged around by the wheel turning. The more power, the harder it gets dragged and the more braking.

Usually they adjust with a spoon exactly like regular drum brakes.

Now, controllers:
Here is where it gets interesting. On the surface, it seems simple. Just apply more current the harder the braking is needed. But, how to determine how much to supply?

Everybody has a "better" idea. The first controller I bought for my travel trailer, the one I still use, actually had a piece of brake line that was supposed to be spliced into the output of the master cylinder.
I hated that idea, and never hooked it up. Since I only tow twice a year, I lay the controller on the front seat, and actuate it with the manual lever when I need braking. Whatever type you get, make darn sure that you can use the manual part easily. Its important to be able to apply the trailer brakes only in many circumstances.

Other controllers have a weight inside mounted on an arm that is free to swing against a spring. The spring tension is adjustable. When you begin to brake, the weight swings forward and applies the trailer brakes.
The harder you brake, the more the weight swings and the more trailer brakes you get.

Others are hooked to the brake lights. When the brake lights come on, the controller begins to gradually apply the brakes. The ramp up rate is adjustable. The longer you have the brake lights on, the more trailer brakes you get.
When you turn off the brake lights, the trailer brakes release.
The downside to that, is if you are easing into a gas station or doing some slow moving while gently riding the brakes, eventually you will either be unable to move or will be dragging the trailer.

You have to remember to release the brakes for a second every so often.

As to which controller is best, its hard to say. Check with folks here who have the different types and get their ideas.

As for the manual part, if you are going down hill on a slippery road, you can apply the trailer brakes only to slow you down with little chance of jackknifing.
And its really nice if your trailer starts swaying due to wind or whatever.
You simply apply the trailer brakes and give the truck gas. That stretches the system right out and stops the sway.
 
No there is not breakaway or battery.

Might want to look into installing them....It will a whole lot easier to do if your planning on rewiring.

One other thing, replace your hook up chains or cable.....It's cheap insurance.
 
Ok, so let me get this straight. I need wires coming from my brake drums on the trailer to a solenoid... Where does this solenoid typically reside? Then what, a wire from the solenoid to the 7 pin connector? Then obviously a controller in the truck. And then a breakaway system... It has a control box and battery, then what? Is it wired to that solenoid too? It has a little wire/cable that hooks in with the safety chains right? Thanks for all your help guys.
 
The brake controller mounted inside the vehicle does all of that so you don't need a solenoid or anything on the trailer. Really all you need are the two wires coming out of each of the brakes. One is just a ground and the other is a power wire that goes to the appropriate pin on the trailer connector. It's the brake controller that sends a varying amount of voltage to the brakes which controls how hard they are braking.

The break-away kit and battery talked about above are not needed for normal trailer brake operation. They are there for an emergency if the trailer comes unhooked from the tow rig. There is a cable that goes from the trailer to tow rig which gets pulled in the case of the trailer becoming unhooked. The cable activates the break-away switch and sends 12V power from this battery to the trailer brakes. You might want to check state laws but thinking it was required, in at least some states, for the setup to be legal on the road.
 
I wouldnt own a trailer without the break away. Its a must have. I dropped my brand new trailer on the freeway once because i loaned my hitch to someone...they put a slightly smaller ball on it and didnt tell me so i stuck it back on my truck, picked the trailer up and it fell off the ball. The break away never pulled because the trailer was still attached to my truck but man was it scary. I usually double check things like that but the thought of someone switching a ball out on my tow hitch never entered my mind. So you definitely want that trailer to lock up if it gets away from the truck.
 
Ok. So the breakaway system doesn't wire into the 7 pin plug? I guess this is what I will do, buy a new light kit for the trailer, rewire it completely, buy a new 7 pin plug, hopefully I will be able to use the brakes that the axle already has, I haven't looked to see if they have wires coming off of them or not. And then I need to hook the brakes up to the 7 pin plug and buy a controller for my truck. Doesn't sound to bad. Thanks y'all.
 
Your 03' Sub.should have all the provisions in place for a brake controller, I run a Tekonsha prodigy myself and love it. Get a brake controller that is for at least two braking axles if not three, it will have a good amount of power for anything you should be hauling with a Sub. They sell a wire harness that plugs into the truck and then you hook the wires up to the brake controller, in fact I think when I bought mine it had a plug on each end and simply plugged into the truck and controller. I just had to hide like three extra feet of wire under the dash. There is a nice spot to mount the controller on the dash on the right side of the steering wheel on the "kick" panel in the GM trucks.

The brakes on the trailer simply have a magnet inside the drum that is activated by the "brake" circuit from the truck. There should be a ground and hot wire coming from the backing plate on each brake location. I like to add a decent length of ground wire and ground to the trailer frame near the axle. Remember that their is some amount of suspension travel in a trailer so you need some wire length. Then run your brake activation wire up to the front, T this wire to the brakeaway switch and to the 7 pin plug. I then run the ground circuit out of the 7 pin plug to the trailer frame. I use the frame of the trailer for part of the ground circuit so that the trailer will also ground through the hitch and make a redundant ground system. Truck should be good on it's end.

You need to have a battery charge wire running from the constant hot in the 7 pin plug to the breakaway battery(you have to charge that battery somehow), then the battery simply hooks up to the breakaway switch. When the cable pulls the pin out of the switch it sends full battery power to the brakes. Ground the battery to the trailer frame as well.
 
I'm sure the burb has provisions for brakes. It's a z71 with factory tow package and factory 7 pin connector. I just need to figure it all. My buddy's '12 suburban has a brake controller integrated in the bottom left of the dash. Mine doesn't have that. All it has that I have found is tow/haul mode. That doesn't do anything for trailer brakes though. Need to read the owners manual and see what it says about trailer braking systems.
 
I'm sure the burb has provisions for brakes. It's a z71 with factory tow package and factory 7 pin connector. I just need to figure it all. My buddy's '12 suburban has a brake controller integrated in the bottom left of the dash. Mine doesn't have that. All it has that I have found is tow/haul mode. That doesn't do anything for trailer brakes though. Need to read the owners manual and see what it says about trailer braking systems.

Like I said it should be all in the wiring already. Honest simple plug and play, in fact I think I still have a left over wire harness for my 05' laying around. I know it's bare wires on one side and I don't know if the plug that's on it is for the controller side or the truck side. I will look and see. I want to say that GM had a "wiring" kit There is also a possibility of needing to install a fuse or relay in the under hood fuse box.
 

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