anyone need the part number for1 ton Master cylinder to fit K5's

[Okiemuddog]

anyone need the part number for1 ton Master cylinder to fit K5\'s

I just swapped out my stock Master cylinder on my '79 K5 for one for a '79 K30, I work for Autozone, so I had a chance to compare all the cylinders to find the right one. The 1 ton cylinder has a noticeably larger piston and better fluid capacity. The only major difference from the stock one is the front/rear reservoir locations, the 1 ton is reversed. I just did a little careful massaging of my lines where they hook to the cylinder and swapped thier connection location. The fittings are the same size and the differnce in stopping power is night and day, no more having to force the pedal to get a hard stop, now just steady pressure and she stops great.

The company is Fenco(autozone brand) part # M1584, and NM1584 for a new one. Most Autozones or parts stores should stock the reman, new one is special order. The prices are reman=$17.99+$18.00 core, just take your stock one back and $92.99 for the new one, both have a Lifetime warranty /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif


Krennen

Oh! BTW, this should fit any K5 with power brakes and a solid cast iron master cylinder. "KEYWORD" should, not sure about newer years, but olders I am sure of.

 

[4GUNZ4X4Z]

Re: anyone need the part number for1 ton Master cylinder to fit K5\'s

Hey Krennen add that part # in the advance preview to the part# post. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif


Cracker

 

[Triaged]

Re: anyone need the part number for1 ton Master cylinder to fit K5\'s

What is the bore of that 1-ton MC? Is it for a vaccum booster or a Hydroboost?

Do you know that a larger bore causes LESS line pressure and LESS clamping force at the caliper with the same force on the brake peddle? It will make the peddle firmer and have less travel but require more effort. Not exactly the direction I want to go with my brakes (I get tired of having both feet on the peddle sometimes /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif).

 

[clubba68]

Re: anyone need the part number for1 ton Master cylinder to fit K5\'s

I was just waiting for you to chime in Triaged. I remembered the posts similar to this one in the 1st gen forum. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
-Andrew /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif

 

[Triaged]

Re: anyone need the part number for1 ton Master cylinder to fit K5\'s

I've been thinking about swapping in my old s10 MC into my blaser because it has a 15/16" bore. The only thing I am worried about is the fact that it is a step bore MC and the res. will tilt the wrong way (I guess I could pop it off and turn it around but I have never had good luck getting the stupid things off without breaking them). I think because they are a newer "metric" MC that the bolt spacing might be different as well/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

I think the best thing that came out of the 1st gen discussions is that the 3/4 ton booster is actually a huge improvement over the 1/2 ton stuff and is a direct (no bending 30+ year old hard lines) bolt on. I think it was because it was a double booster but I might be wrong on that.

 

[Stephen]

Re: anyone need the part number for1 ton Master cylinder to fit K5\'s

I'd be a bit careful of the really small master cylinder, you might end up with too much pedal travel. If you max out the master cyl. travel or hit the floor, you've gone too far.
For some reason, a lot of people equate a firmer pedal with better stopping power, despite the fact it's not necessarily true. It could be true if you're running out of travel somewhere, we picked up lots of braking power in my bro's buggy when we swapped in a bigger master. Mostly because the thing stops before the pedal hits the firewall now.

hydroboost vs. no hydroboost? I've found the 1-ton stuff bolts right to the hydroboost unit but the line swap thing can bite you if your lines are specific, like mine.

 

[Triaged]

Re: anyone need the part number for1 ton Master cylinder to fit K5\'s

I have run out of travel one time. It was after playing around in the mud pit in Hollister for a while. Seems that the pads got knocked back into the caliper and when I hit the brakes it just went to the floor and the idiot light came on. Who knows the newer step bore MC might be better in a case like that because of the quick take-up feature? Normally my peddle is only 1/4 of the way down to lock up the brakes...just a bit more effort than I would like. Sometimes on downhills I have to use both feet on the brake peddle. I wish I had heard that the 3/4-ton boosters provided more assist befor I replaced mine. They arn't cheep and I don't want to spend that money again if I don't have to.