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Anyone run a front spool?

jboyes

jboyes

1/2 ton status
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If so, do you like it and what kind of terrain do you run (trails, rocks, mud)?
Also, how stout are they? Will I have to worry about breaking it?

I just ordered one for my D60 mainly 'cause it was a heck of a lot cheaper than a locker.

Thanks,

Jason
 
find out for yourself like i did, since i don't know what i am talking about, and fvck you Ryoken
fu.gif
 
Last edited:
4xcrazy said:
I had a welded up carrier up in front of mine for a couple of runs, absolutely hated it, couldn't steer worth a crapola,
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Did you have crossover on it?
 
Poor mans spool by Lincoln front and rear, It basically sucks trying to turn but the traction is worth it until I can put a selectable in.
 
4xcrazy said:
find out for yourself like i did, since i don't know what i am talking about, and fvck you Ryoken
fu.gif
Click to expand...

What happened here? This isn't the same reply that I saw on here yesterday.

Oh, and thanks for the info guys. Hopefully with the crossover it won't be too bad to steer.
 
I have a spool in my front '60 and I lincoln locked the 14 bolt.

Traction: Excellent and predictable (unlike some automatic lockers) All my wheels turn at the same speed even when they're not on the ground... unless I have a broken shaft. :doah:
Steering: With hydraulic assist and cross over I can point the wheels in the direction I want to go with ease. Actually getting the rig to go that direction can be a chore since the front end gets "pushed" in some conditions.
Cost: Next best thing other than welding the spiders. Lighter too!!!
Strength: This is the strongest part in my front end. This will probably outlast the housing itself.
Opinion: Would I put a spool in a daily driver? No. In my rock-crawler or mud-runner? Yes. When compared to a detroit in the rear and a limited slip up front, being welded in the rear and spooled up front provides more predictable street and trail behavior. It also increased traction, tire wear and my volume of broken parts.
 
Not wanting to hijack, just would like more info... What kind of parts? Axle shafts and U joints mainly? Been debating spools over lockrites for cost purposes. I'm currently planning my 1 ton swap with 38's and would like to throw in some traction aids along with all the other money, but "budget build" is the name of the game.
 
With 38's I doubt you'll break the stock parts in a '60. I went with a Strange spool and motive gear 5.13's. I've got spicer 35 spline stubs and spicer joints along with stock non-neck down inners and a spicer 1350 u-bolt yoke. But my tires are quite a bit bigger and I was breaking parts almost every trip out.
 
TruckNutzDude said:
I have a spool in my front '60 and I lincoln locked the 14 bolt.

Traction: Excellent and predictable (unlike some automatic lockers) All my wheels turn at the same speed even when they're not on the ground... unless I have a broken shaft. :doah:
Steering: With hydraulic assist and cross over I can point the wheels in the direction I want to go with ease. Actually getting the rig to go that direction can be a chore since the front end gets "pushed" in some conditions.
Cost: Next best thing other than welding the spiders. Lighter too!!!
Strength: This is the strongest part in my front end. This will probably outlast the housing itself.
Opinion: Would I put a spool in a daily driver? No. In my rock-crawler or mud-runner? Yes. When compared to a detroit in the rear and a limited slip up front, being welded in the rear and spooled up front provides more predictable street and trail behavior. It also increased traction, tire wear and my volume of broken parts.
Click to expand...

Perfect! Thanks for the detailed answer
 
The trick to a spool is...

I've been running a spool for a while now and I don't understand why everybody hates them so much. The trick to turning is to always carry a hub monkey in the passenger seat to lock and unlock the pass. side hub.
 
To let it move faster or slower to make tighter turns. Like a manual automatic locker :haha: Good idea. Which kind of spool do you run, the type that replaces your carrier or the type that you install on your ring gear?
 
Stormin said:
The trick to turning is to always carry a hub monkey in the passenger seat to lock and unlock the pass. side hub.
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:haha: :haha:

Thats what I've been doing wrong. :doah: I'll have to make sure I get one of those next time.:D

Z
 
I know a couple guys running welded/spooled front axles on their rigs (38.5 and 39.5" tires). They do have hydro-assist, but if you didn't know you would never watch them on the trails and say "oh look, they must have spooled front axles". They act the same as any regular front locker when looking at them from the outside, and neither of them have issues while on the trail.

With that said, I do prefer some type of locker (Detroit, Lock-right, etc..) in the front.

Regarding cross-over steering, I don't understand why everybody thinks you will turn easier if you have cross-over with a front spool. Cross-over only helps when the front axle is articulated because the draglink is much longer and therefore doesn't "change geometry" as much and thus still lets you turn when the driver's side is a full droop. There is really no extra assist or anything it gives you.
 
6.2Blazer said:
Regarding cross-over steering, I don't understand why everybody thinks you will turn easier if you have cross-over with a front spool. Cross-over only helps when the front axle is articulated because the draglink is much longer and therefore doesn't "change geometry" as much and thus still lets you turn when the driver's side is a full droop. There is really no extra assist or anything it gives you.
Click to expand...

As you've already said, the only reason I mentioned having cross over steering is that you need the ability to turn your tires completely lock to lock when you are articulated. If you can't turn left when you're flexed out (typical of stock steering) you can't turn left at all and you just made your rig into a $3 remote controlled toy that can only turn by backing up and going right! :p:

Also, the down fall to cross over steering is that it adds a lot of stress to the frame. Mine twisted and flexed whenever I turned which actually seemed to take away from my ability to direct my tires left or right. To cure it I tried the weld on brace which helped a small amount, then I added the bolt on brace which added more strength but I finally had to go with a hydraulic assist setup because I found myself having to tug on the wheel very hard when I my tires weren't rolling. I didn't want to take the chance that my steering box or frame would fail and leave me stranded or even worse, lose control of my rig on the street.
 
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