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Anyone running HAD t-case parking brake? Now with PICS

K5Nate

K5Nate

1/2 ton status
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Is anyone running the HAD off the t-case parking brake? I am ready to install my parts and I already know I have to cut into the floor a bit and make a new "hump" for the caliper to clear. Has anyone had to do this? What did you do to utilize the stock linkage? Pics?

How is the holding ability? I heard it is a bit sketchy. I think Scott just posted something on this recently. Anyone running a Mico or Line Lock?
 
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Ya, we just had a discussion about this topic. I am installing rear disks and wanted ebrakes. I had heard a lot of negatives about the eldorado calipers with the ebrakes. I looked into HAD, but decided(with the help of the brothers) that I would go with the eldo. Reasoning is this: I am interested more in having a funcional ebrake and as stated in our earlier discussion "two calipers are better than one, when you are trying to stop a 2 ton rig."
That being said, I chose not to use a pinion or yoke mounted brake. Maybe as just a parking brake it would be ok, but they do look a little light duty to be used as an emergency brake....IMO. I heard the same thing about the HAD that I heard about the eldos.....let me know how it turns out, I am really interested to know.
Wasn't too keen on line locks for a permanent solution. On a crawler or drag car they are useful, but not on something driven on the street. Again, IMO.
 
Yeah understood. I really would only be relying on it as a parking brake on the trails, definitely not as an e-brake, I don't see it doing anything but getting red hot and or falling apart if relied on as one during an emergency stop. Post up when you do you eldo calipers! Good luck.
 
This is true. I totally forgot about that option! The reason I was stuck on the highest position is to keep the angle of the actuating arm close to where the factory parking cable comes off the frame. I guess I could re-route the cable and rid my cutting into the body idea. Thanks :p:
 
i would like to see your finished pics, i currently have installed a line lock on my 3/4 ton & dont really like it. i cannot decide between the eldorado calipers or the had assembly.
 
K5Nate said:
This is true. I totally forgot about that option! The reason I was stuck on the highest position is to keep the angle of the actuating arm close to where the factory parking cable comes off the frame. I guess I could re-route the cable and rid my cutting into the body idea. Thanks
Click to expand...

:grin:
 
i've heard nothing about "weak" holding with the HAD system..


to the contrary, I've heard, and seen just about nothing but that, concerning the eldo's...


i'll be getting my HAD setup mocked up in a couple weeks..
 
Keep in mind, with a driveline brake, the amount of force needed is less then the ending force on the outside of the axle. Consider rockwell axles. They have the driveline brake, that I have seen used with toyota fixed calipers and I believe it was said, it transmits to about 7 times the braking force because of leverage and location.

The eldo calipers need the ebrake used to keep adjusted, but I decided against them because of problems. I am saving up for HAD brake, or something similiar.
 
Ok so here was my attempt at mocking up my tcase brake. as you will soon see the problems I predicted happened. I would definitely still need to cut into the body and make a little "hump" for the rotor spin in, as its diameter to too large and I am not running a body lift.

Flange and driveline.
SAM_0382.jpg

Rotor, Caliper and bolts with spacers.
SAM_0383.jpg

Since I moved the caliper to the lowest possible mounting position I had to swap the actuating arm over to pull from the other direction.
SAM_0384.jpg

Here you can more clearly see the issue of the rotor, as it slips onto the flange from the backside.
SAM_0385.jpg

Position I have moved the caliper to, my first idea was to have it in the highest position, but i would have to cut into the body, well I still have to cut into the body.
SAM_0386-1.jpg

And the final issue is the clearance with the arm and whatever I use to connect up the cables. I think I will need to find a clevis end for this instead of the supplied fitting. The pic isn't all that great but there is probably about 1/8" between the arm and the bolt. By moving the arm around I found that it would bind on the bolt if pulled at an upwards angle and be unable to disengage. Who has solutions?? I haven't even thought far enough ahead to figure out how to have the cable come off of the frame rail to engage the arm to keep the angle as level as possible with the arm.
 
all i can say is, I'm right behind ya on this one, and i'll let ya know what i figure out... hopefully I'll be mocking that stuff up this weekend.... not sure how much of the e-brake stuff i can figure out, as i still need to get the output flange from Jesse...


mine wont be too much help with the custom floor and clocked case, but the fixed, cable mount bracket didn't look too crazy from the quickie look i gave it... but i'm able to do a push/pull cable so the mounting is simple, 3/4" hole... threaded cable end goes thru, nutted on either side... clevis at the end, to the lever hole...


are you using/working off the stock pedal and cable?
 
thats a pretty sweet idea, i never really thought about putting a e brake on the t-case. but where did you get the kit to do this or is it custom
 
ryoken said:
all i can say is, I'm right behind ya on this one, and i'll let ya know what i figure out... hopefully I'll be mocking that stuff up this weekend.... not sure how much of the e-brake stuff i can figure out, as i still need to get the output flange from Jesse...


mine wont be too much help with the custom floor and clocked case, but the fixed, cable mount bracket didn't look too crazy from the quickie look i gave it... but i'm able to do a push/pull cable so the mounting is simple, 3/4" hole... threaded cable end goes thru, nutted on either side... clevis at the end, to the lever hole...


are you using/working off the stock pedal and cable?
Click to expand...

yeah I am still using the stock pedal and cable. I was thinking about moving to a had brake style lever somewhere but I wasn't sure. If you don't mind could you post up some pics of how your stuff is routed and what you are using?
 
well, i JUST glued up the hand lever mount 5 minutes ago... i'm running a push/pull cable like this thru my floor, with a rubber grommet....


cable.jpg




compartment003.jpg



consolelayout002.jpg



the only thing i really need to figure out is the 205 mount, and how to incorporate a spring down there, for assured return...
 
Has anyone looked into the rear calipers from an H1? They have a parking brake incorporated into them and I believe the rotor is similar in thickness to the 3/4 ton ones we are using for the rear swaps. I am sure the calipers should be available from local auto parts stores by now.
 
K5Nate said:
Ok so here was my attempt at mocking up my tcase brake. as you will soon see the problems I predicted happened. I would definitely still need to cut into the body and make a little "hump" for the rotor spin in, as its diameter to too large and I am not running a body lift.
The pic isn't all that great but there is probably about 1/8" between the arm and the bolt. By moving the arm around I found that it would bind on the bolt if pulled at an upwards angle and be unable to disengage. Who has solutions?? I haven't even thought far enough ahead to figure out how to have the cable come off of the frame rail to engage the arm to keep the angle as level as possible with the arm.
Click to expand...


TTT

have you gotten anywhere on this?

I'm setting this up now... boy, at least your using the stock seal retainer... whole nother set of probs using my billet NWF one... had to shave down the standoffs on the bracket so they fit in the recessed holes...

but on to the issue you where having with clearance.. same here... i'm going to shorten the cam arm... my e-brake handle only has 2"s of throw to begin with so i could really use the shorter throw of moving the clevis up the arm some anyway... i'm gonna cut it down to the hole and move the hole maybe 3/4 of an inch down.. should give much more clearance... i'd run it on the other side if the arm wasn't totally in the way of the speedo... tho i guess if i'm shortening the arm anyway, it'd probably work over there too...


i should have some pics in a few days of mine...
 
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