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Anyone running RCV axles D60

I don't run them but know a couple guys that do.

RCV are awesome. There is an issue though. You have moved the weak point. It is now your ring and pinion. Best thing to do is have your R&P cyrod that will help strength some and make sure your setup is dead on.

RCV in a 60 = bombproof
 
Holy cap,2K for those. I think unless you are a comp. rock crawler or something like that, I would pick another option. That's just from a noob, but Damm, that a lot of coin.


Hell, my whole rig is worth that.
 
Holy cap,2K for those. I think unless you are a comp. rock crawler or something like that, I would pick another option. That's just from a noob, but Damm, that a lot of coin.


Hell, my whole rig is worth that.

Nope its all about reliability, and if I need to get on it when I am all out of kilter and jammed up hard I don't want stuff to break. I don't try certain things cause I know my stock shafts will break. If I had RCVs I would try them in a second.

Its alot of coin but wheeling time is pretty dang important
 
Damn Ronnie, what are you doing to your axles?:eek1:
Is it the detroit and the manual tranny that puts so much stress on it?
Or have I just been lucky not to break mine:confused:
 
Nope its all about reliability, and if I need to get on it when I am all out of kilter and jammed up hard I don't want stuff to break.
Its alot of coin but wheeling time is pretty dang important
Right on :waytogo:
I have not wheeled since my front 60 broke and my DD is now pulling to the right all the time :whistle:
I guess I need to do something about this SOON.
 
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RCV in a 60 = bombproof

mtnman has a set. I think he's broken a birfield joint on one of those...:doah:

I know of another guy who's broken a few more; there was talk of him going back to u-joints; but that was buggy talk, so I don't pay attention.

As I remember, the issue was that the turning center of the birfield joint has to be closely indexed to the kingpin inclination axis so that the knuckle and the axle joint in fact rotate on the same axis when steering is engaged, and are not offset. Usually, the outer clip on the stub does that job, but things like using a different (from stock) race on the outer wheel bearing to make a 35-spline hub work better, or different spindle nuts, may affect where the birfield axis ends up in relation to the kingpins.
 
So for me with the Warn flanges who don't have the spring to push out the flange and stub RCVs would not be a good choise :dunno:.
Did I get that right.
And I've been thinking that maybe that is why I broke the stub this time ?
 
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RCV are awesome. There is an issue though. You have moved the weak point. It is now your ring and pinion. Best thing to do is have your R&P cyrod that will help strength some and make sure your setup is dead on.

Something else to consider while building a bulletproof axle is using a D70 r&p in your 60 housing. Jantz Engineering has a kit to do it, see GreenieK30's thread here - http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=280272&highlight=jantz

Imo, using a D70 r&p w/ RCV's would be the sheet! :pimp:
 
I have no real world info to contribute here, but as far as science goes, this technology would be the only technology I would get to upgrade from the stock configuration.
A U joint is the wrong answer to the application a CV is.
You could get away with a smaller CV than a Ujoint style and still be stronger because the reason Yokes break is when you are turned the Ujoint want to go eliptical not circular.
To understand, try and get in mud where it's not going to bind and turn the wheel and mash the pedal, you can feel the wiggle in the steering wheel, you wouldn't with a CV.
If I ever get my Crew cab built for excursions, I would definitely buy something like that, but for going wheeling with a big group I don't see the point, no matter how bad the break is I can always get back home.
Not so if you are on your own in the middle of nowhere. :waytogo:
 
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