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Anyone use Mosler?

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uberbeans

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Has anyone used the Mosler C-clip eliminator kit? Pros and cons? Is it offroad suitable? I saw in Peterson's how they said it can be used to eliminate the troublesome c-clip in a 12 bolt. Toying with the idea of doing this with chrome-moly axles. (I don't want to upgrade to a 14 bolt, as great as they are). Thanks in advance.
 
Moser drop the L ,I havent used the 12 bolt kit but used several 8.8 Ford kits with lots of luck(Mustangs).Good quality stuff!
 
I have read in the past that they are meant for cars and dragstrip use. Not for use with the type of side loads that wheeling create.
 
Emmettology 101 said:
I have read in the past that they are meant for cars and dragstrip use. Not for use with the type of side loads that wheeling create.
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he has a point with the side loading
 
Emmettology 101 said:
I have read in the past that they are meant for cars and dragstrip use. Not for use with the type of side loads that wheeling create.
Click to expand...

Not sure how moser makes theirs, but Strange makes 12 bolt c-clip eliminators that are designed for circle track use and can take side loading.
 
Not sure about the eliminator kits but as far as Moser shafts go, shy away from them as they are not the best aftermarket shafts at all from what I've read from others.
Their service and warranty sucks, too, so I've heard.
 
Wouldn't it be cool to go to a full floater instead? Perhaps cut the ends of the axle tubes off, weld on some 9 inch housing ends and then use a warn type kit (for an 8.8 or 9 inch) to create a full floater 12 bolt? Custom axleshafts would be a must. Might could use a grand waggy front hub/rotor, and convert to disc brakes while doing it. :thinking: :thinking:

Or does a kit already exist to do so?
 
I'd say making a full floater out of a semi wouldn't be too hard as like you said, just cut the existing ends off and reweld on some new flanges that would accept a spindle for instance. This would be fairly easy to accomplish. Just have to get some custom shafts made for it and the cool thing is that you could bolt on some lockout hubs and have the advantage of unlocking them for towing the rig.
 
All of the C-clip eliminator kits i've ever seen or read about the seals leak like crazy pretty fast.
 
i always used plenty of silicone and never had any leaks but all of my experience is with drag cars that didnt see much street duty
 
I'd say making a full floater out of a semi wouldn't be too hard as like you said, just cut the existing ends off and reweld on some new flanges that would accept a spindle for instance. This would be fairly easy to accomplish. Just have to get some custom shafts made for it and the cool thing is that you could bolt on some lockout hubs and have the advantage of unlocking them for towing the rig.
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I wonder what "ends" would work? The diameter tube would have to be the same. Any recommendations? Isn't a 9" non-c-clip? How do the ends attach on a 9? Who could make the custem shafts? This could be a pretty cheap way of doing things. Ideas?

Wouldn't it be cool to go to a full floater instead? Perhaps cut the ends of the axle tubes off, weld on some 9 inch housing ends and then use a warn type kit (for an 8.8 or 9 inch) to create a full floater 12 bolt? Custom axleshafts would be a must. Might could use a grand waggy front hub/rotor, and convert to disc brakes while doing it.
Click to expand...

Which warn kit is that and how does it work?
 
Not sure how moser makes theirs, but Strange makes 12 bolt c-clip eliminators that are designed for circle track use and can take side loading.
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Does strange use a flat bearing instead? Circle track is all about side loading!
 
Look at Warn's webiste at their full floater kits. You'll get the idea how they work.

I'd guess have to figure out the tube diameter of a 12 bolt and find some housing ends that are the same diameter and would accept a full floating kit. Then a set of custom axles.
 
I've seen it before and wanted it but they canceled it just when I was going to buy. Do you think that if I was to convert to a 9" ends and then buy the full floater kit for it that it would be worth it?
 
I guess it depends on your level of fab ability and the amount of down time you can have on the truck. The more you have of both, the better a full float conversion looks.

But it seems to me that a c-clip eliminator could be done in a day or so, over a weekend so there is little truck downtime. Plus it'd probably be cheaper.
 
ryan22re said:
I guess it depends on your level of fab ability and the amount of down time you can have on the truck. The more you have of both, the better a full float conversion looks.

But it seems to me that a c-clip eliminator could be done in a day or so, over a weekend so there is little truck downtime. Plus it'd probably be cheaper.
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Definitly cheaper, the full floater kit is very expensive. It's just that I have so much invested in my current set up that I don't want to go to 14 bolt (not to mention the money for new wheels). I know that nothing I do will make it quite as strong as the 14, but a detroit locked 12 with yukon gears and chrome-moly shafts and 1350 u-joint with a full floater or c-clip eliminator would be damn strong especially on a significantly lighter truck.
 
We had a thread about this not THAT long ago, the c-clip isn't the weak part in these axles. Only one incident so far showing that the C-clip portion let go.

Pretty good odds compared to how many rings, pinions, carriers and housings you hear failing.
 
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