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Anyone wheel a NP203?

TerryD

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Most transfer cases have chains in them nowadays. I've seen alot of trucks on here with 208's and some 241's. Is there a real drawback to running a NP203 that is still full time vs a NP205? On the trail, I can see running in Full Time being a good thing, then just lock it in when you start having trouble going. With lockers front and rear I can see it being pretty effective.
 
I've had them before, but after replacing it twice in one year I went with the 205 and have not had a problem yet. I would think that it all depends on what the application is. I dont think that it would be problematic if it was for light trail riding.
 
The 203 get a bad rap partly because its so freakin heavy. Partly because alot of folks put the wrong oil in them. And partly because the shifter is finicky.

I ran a 203 for 4 or 5 years. Not light wheeling. With 40s and 4.56s and one tons locked front and rear, I switched to a part time kit and liked that for the mere fact that I could run 2 low no problem.

I have also gotten 203s from folks who swore they were broken only to find nothing wrong with them. Put most of those back in (after adjusting the shifter) people thought I was a 203 genius or something
 
Thanks guys! I've got some other drive line work to do before I'm to the point of swapping t-cases, but I think I'll give my NP203 a go and see how she does. Can you get the GM 3R yokes for it or am I stuck with 1310?
 
The NP 203 is a misunderstood beast and does require unique care and feeding depending on what modifications have been performed on them.


X1000 - it is HEAVY. Some see this as a disadvantage. I see it as an asset. It will shrug off rocks that would split an aluminum case like a melon.

Stock Hurst shifter = brings the suck! They will work just fine with proper care and feeding but most are abused, rode hard and put up wet. There are alternatives for not much $

Fixed yoke = Cool! nuff said!

In stock trim I believe both versions have a wider chain than any of the 2xx class transfer cases (-205 it is all gear) so the chain in theory should be stronger.

Here is where the care, feeding, and rumor mill start giving the 203 a bad rep. If you do not run the proper fluid in this case you will TRASH the chain. The 203 case REQUIRES 30 Wt oil (doublers are a different story). ATF is too thin and gear oil is too thick. The chain starts stretching out and starts jumping teeth quickly.

Second issue with care and feeding is if a part time kit has been installed. if a part time kit has been installed you MUST overfill the case with 30 Wt motor oil by installing a 90 degree pipe fitting into the fill port which results in raising the fluid level by a good inch. when a part time kit is installed the chain no longer spins in the oil bath all the time resulting in a lack of lubrication on the main output shaft. Increasing the oil level helps this situation.

Second part is that you should engage the transfer case into 4x4 at least once every 500 miles. There is a small oil "pan" up in the output shaft casing of the transfer case. There is an oil pump up there that pumps oil to the back output bearing. The oil then returns to that "pan" by engaging the transfer case into 4x4 you "refresh" the oil in that pan by the chain splashing more oil form the bottom of the case. Mind you, you dont need to actualy lock in the front hubs to accomplish this task. Simply going into 4 hi for 10 miles will do the trick.

The other Achilles heel for this transfer case is the shifter. It is a complex mechanical monster that has little sealing to keep out dirt. When dirt gets into it it gets stiff and will start wearing out fast. Cleaning the mechanism and lubricating them will return them to working condition but this rarely happens. Adjustment of the shifter is required and is not difficult once you understand how to do it.

Alternatives to the Hurst shifter. There are usually 2 methods here.

1. ORD sells a 203 twin stick option that ditches the entire Hurst box. It works well, looks good, and costs $.
2. some grab a second Hurst shifter from the junk yard and build up their own twin stick with a bit of bracketry and a welder. Done right it is quite reliable and can look good on the cheep.


I personally like my 203 as I put in a new chain, cleaned up and lubed the shifter and it now runs smooth as glass. It is no 205 all gear case that is for sure and it will never be that strong but it has served my family well since my father bought it new in 73. It had almost 280,000 miles on it before I replaced the chain and freshened it up. The chain was showing signs of stretch but it had not started slipping yet. Goes to show you that with the proper care and feeding it can be a reliable case. If you have any mechanical ability at all you can rebuild the entire thing quite easily.


Hope that helps,

Rufus
 
Shifters suck. I fixed mine with a dremel and a lot of cleaning.

They are plenty strong. Most people run the wrong oil or leave them in part time and ruin the chains. Properly used, they are very, very tough.

Stupid easy to work on. You can rebuild it in the truck with a 9/16" ratchet. That's it...really.

The yokes are interchangeable with 205s, and probably other cases. I stole the yoke off my 205 when I put in tons so I didn't need a goofy conversion joint while I build my doubler.

If a 203 works fine, I see no reason to replace it with anything but a doubler. It's rated for about the same GVWR as the 205. I'd take it over an aluminum case because the housing can take a hell of a lot more of a beating.

My dad commercially plowed in Anchorage with one for about a decade. It got great traction and was about the only thing that didn't break on that damn FwORD.
 
This is all great info guys! You've got me really looking forward to putting it in my K5. Anyone ever install one behind a TH700R4? I think I'm going to have to fab up a new support rod from the engine and possibly put in a frame mounted support if I can get a basic cage and sliders on by that point to stiffen the frame.
 
well, I am in the process of putting one behind an 4l65-e trans which is basically the same thing as a 700.

It is not a bolt in but it is doable. (this assumes you have a 203 that came from a th350 trans with 27 splines)

1. You will need to have the round pattern adapter that was between the 700 and the transfer case that was there in the first place. It was most likely a 208 or 231 case.

2. You will need the front face of the 203 transfer case re drilled to the round pattern adapter from the 700 trans. This will require at a minimum to pull the range box on the 203 apart so that you can clean out the shavings. I took that opportunity to throw all new bearings, seals, and chain into mine at the same time. you can do this with a transfer punch set and a hand drill but I would HIGHLY recommend at least a drill press.

3. You will need to have the front bearing support from the 203 machined down to fit inside the round pattern adapter. It does not take much and you could probably just use sand paper on it but I have a lathe so I actualy pulled off the .005 needed to slip into the adapter.

After all that it is a bolt up. :D


Oh! and the 203 (as far as I know) never had a support running from the engine to the transfer case. My 73 certainly did not and it has been in the family since new. The side of the transfer case was bolted to the frame for support (with a rubber mount). The merits of a support bar have been argued for and agenst by the brotherhood here many times. I am of the belief that it certainly cant hurt. In this case the support is more for the health of the transmission than the transfer case.
 
Oh! and the 203 (as far as I know) never had a support running from the engine to the transfer case. My 73 certainly did not and it has been in the family since new. The side of the transfer case was bolted to the frame for support (with a rubber mount). The merits of a support bar have been argued for and agenst by the brotherhood here many times. I am of the belief that it certainly cant hurt. In this case the support is more for the health of the transmission than the transfer case.
my 79 has rhat support.it is dis connected at this point.dual exaust got in the way.;) i have a 465/208 to put in it. {looking for a 205}. i have not beat the thing, but i have owned the truck since 89.and it has had it's share.i mine shifts pretty easy,but i found putting the trans in neutral makes things easier. :D
 
Oh! and the 203 (as far as I know) never had a support running from the engine to the transfer case. My 73 certainly did not and it has been in the family since new. The side of the transfer case was bolted to the frame for support (with a rubber mount). The merits of a support bar have been argued for and agenst by the brotherhood here many times. I am of the belief that it certainly cant hurt. In this case the support is more for the health of the transmission than the transfer case.


My 79 has the support rod, but yes I have seen them with and without the rod.
 
i beat the living hell outta mine almost every weekend for about 6 months. the trans broke before the t case did. the only problems i have is IT IS SUPER HEAVY and the shifter ( as said earlier.) i welded up a bracket to put on top of the jack to get it in the truck easier. if anyone wants a pic or diagram i got it on my comp at home.
 
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