What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Anyone with part number for the door striker bushing?

dyeager535

dyeager535

1 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Dec 13, 2000
Posts
31,577
Solutions
1
Reaction score
2,914
Location
Roy, Washington
I found lots of posts referencing them, but nothing with part numbers. All the ones in the 'yards appear to be cracked. For the price, not worth buying halfway bad used ones. :)

Not at home or I'd check the book.

Napa, Schucks, GM, whatever is still available.

Thanks!

Dorian
 
Do you mean these?
f15e_1.JPG


Or these?
gm-003.gif

IMHO these are just PVC why not make your own?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dorm...1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

89c2_1.JPG

Dorman product
 
The second pic down. They aren't PVC, they're more of a teflon-y type product. They are somewhat soft, but harder than rubber.

Whatever the material is, it has to expand enough to get over the threads, and then shrink back down to the smaller diameter where they sit. The shank of the bolt is smaller diameter than the threaded portion.

Can't view ebay here so can't see what's linked.

Based on how bad the door closes without them, getting the right diameter is going to make a huge different in door shutting effort.
 
Two typical issues of door closing IME, assuming the striker was originally positioned right, as was the door itself...either the door hinges are shot, and the door will hit the top of the striker (the top of the striker will be shiny where the latch assembly hits it, plus you'll hear the metal on metal and feel the door hesitate to close as it shuts completely) or the bushing is missing.

Missing bushing in my case means you have to shove the door extra hard to get it to latch. Drivers side easy, passenger side hard. If you don't push it hard enough, it only hits the safety catch, so the door is only "halfway" latched....its closed, but sticking out still. Which may or may not turn your dome light on.
 
So would these make the doors latch easier? What about rattle?

My rear drivers side passenger door rattles a bit on my burb. I can grab the handle and make it hit the pillar or striker.
 
This is the GM part # 9601752 and they are called a silencer. They list for $2.08 each and he sold them to me for $1.21 each. They are the little grey collar, not the bolt assy, you don't need that.
Tarey
 
yes, the bushing can/will help w/door rattle(if striker is set right), if its missing, it lets the door rattle, i used to wrap my striker w/ alot of electrical tape, every couple/3 weeks or so, to stop the rattle, until i found the bushing in the ''help'' section, it was split spiral down the bushing, so you could put it on the strker bolt, they stopped the door rattle....

then i could really tell the window felts were worn and the window rattled like heck...i got new felt and it really made the truck sound better...i was surprised how much my rattles quit w/just those 2 fixes...before fixing those 2 it sounded like the whole truck was a rattle trap, afterwards no rattles...those 2 fixes REALLY made a HUGE difference.
 
On MY door, the difference is night and day on how easy they latch. The door shut perfectly fine, the next day, harder than heck to get shut. Immediately noticed the bushing was gone.

Mine doesn't SEEM to rattle without the bushing, but it's the passenger side, and the trucks so noisy, not sure I'd notice it. Could be some of the noise I hear though now that you mention it. Should be able to tell by pulling on the door handle a bit. Never tried on mine, maybe I'll check it tonight.

The striker bolt is all that stops the door from moving in/outwards (ignoring the gaskets which are not designed to stop the door). I suspect the doors don't rattle TOO much when the bushing disappears because properly setup, the door seal should be firm against the door, which means it's pushing outward, forcing the latch against the striker most of the time, even with the bushing gone. IIRC the latch itself angles upwards after it hits the striker, that too may keep it from moving in/out as much once latched.

Reason the doors are harder to shut with the bushing gone is most likely because it effectively increases the distance the door has to travel before the latch actually touches the striker, and you are now smashing the seal to get the door closed far enough for the latch to hit the striker.
 
Yes, I gave the part # 9601752 $1.21 each, call your dealer.
Tarey
 
i had the same problem. the bushings were all cracked and fell off, which made the doors rattle. my local stealership wanted $26 each for the whole bolt/bushing/washer assembly :eek1: said they weren't available separately. after breaking 2 T-bits trying to get them off i said F it, couldn't fix it anyway. i tore about 6" of duct tape in half length wise, wrapped it around the bolt. works great. the latch mushes the tape to the shape it needs so it's self adjusting and lasts about 6 months on the drivers door. i just re wrap it when i notice the door sounds loose when i close it. and i figure it costs about $0.02:D


can't fix it, duct it
 
Pack qty is 10 for that part number, if your local dealer already has them you may be in luck and able to purchase singly, my local dealer does not, so won't sell them singly if they had to order.
 
My local stealership enjoys raping people on parts :doah:I'm going to check with them in any case..

Any tricks to removing and reinstalling the striker bolt?
 
just as you mentioned, before i replaced the striker bushing i had to slam the door, so the door would go in far enough that the striker would make the latch flip closed, the latches i.d. is the size of the bushing, and when the bushing is missing, it causes the latch to have slop on the striker bolt the thickness of both sides of the bushing and would allow the door to rattle in and out. after new strikers it would close by just pushing the door closed. i suppose, if you have good weatherstripping, the weatherstripping would try to keep the door pushed out, possibly enough to keep the striker and latch making contact and only rattle when your on washboard on a gravel road or in a bouncy situation, my weatherstripping was shot so it let the door latch rattle on the striker all the time.

when i bought my new felts, i ordered the weatherstripping and felts in a kit that had all weatherstripping for both doors, and it was a night and day difference, my rattle trap was no longer a rattle trap, but, then i could hear my leaf spring bushings squeaking, so i then put new poly bushings in the spring eyes....

then, i could slightly hear the exhaust pipe vibrating against the frame, i fixed that and it made the truck so much better to ride in, it no longer sounded like crap, i was amazed at how much difference these little things had such a large difference in the sound of the truck..it was so much of a difference, it didn't seem to be the same truck and my friends realized it right away when they would ride w/me after i had fixed all the annoying noises.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom