CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Anything to look out for with a 2000 Chevy 2500?

AJMBLAZER

Better to be lucky than good.
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
May 18, 2000
Posts
26,666
Reaction score
7,991
Location
Paducah, KY
No, not for me.

My buddy's mom has been talking about getting a truck for well over a year now. Think she gave up on it for a while but recently a truck appeared right down the road and it sounds good so far. My buddy called me asking about it and I told him what I knew but I'm 700 miles away right now so can't help too much.

2000 Chevy regular cab long bed 2500 4x4. Automatic and we THINK 6.0L. Buddy says it's a LS and looks fairly loaded. Newer AT looking tires and a 5th wheel hitch or something in the bed.
He's not an expert but that's what I have to go off of until I can see it later this week. He does say it looks well kept up and cared for.
47,000 miles. Yep, 47 thousand miles.


Dad had a 2000 2500 extended cab shortbed 4x4 about ten years ago and it was an old man luxo boat special including running boards and lame factory small tires. Good truck though. However he only owned it for a few years and put very low miles on it.

I know some about this era truck from dad and a bunch of my friends owning them. Personally I'd probably never buy one. However if it was in good shape it'd probably be ideal for her. She just wants to use the bed every now and then and have a good vehicle for driving to work in the winters.
What should I look at and check over?

Guy's asking $10,500 which is a little high but KBB says is about a grand high. She'll probably pay cash and if it's as good as it sounds I'll tell her to take $9500 cash and wave it at them.
 
The early LS motors (99-01) had too much piston/bore clearance, creating piston slap. Some are worse than others. My '01 sounds like a diesel for a few minutes on cold mornings. 170K and still going strong, though.
 
Wouldn't it be a 4L80E?

Dad's was the extended cab equivalent and it was 9.25" IFS front, 14SF rear, and 4L80E.
 
It would have a 6.0 and a 4L80e, 8600gvw and a 9.5" 14bsf axle w/ 3.73's....sounds like mine AJ....I just turned 200K going to Moab. It uses NO OIL even when towing 10-11K #'s. The biggest thing I've found out to look for is broken exhaust manifold bolts, and the fuel pump/pickup/sending unit/filter sock assy in the tank goes and its like 350 for the part...also watch the rear discs...they get rusty and give some problems.
I've had mine for 25000 now, and really am happy with it. Mines an LT, but the drivetrain is the same on all the 2500's the first couple years of that body style.
The cab corners of course are very rust prone as usual.
 
Ooooooh, I know alllll about those disks getting rusty.

Eriks split rotor.jpg

Eriks split rotor in two.jpg
 
Wow, never seen one that bad, but I guess you know what to look for there...:whistle:

Also my 6.0 has had the piston slap since it was at least 40K on it. My neighbor bought the truck then, and had it up until I bought it, never an issue though.
 
She's gone silent on it. I told my buddy to let her know I'm perfectly willing to climb all over it for her. Nada since then.


Yeah, that was another buddy's MIL's '04 DD Silverado half ton. Fronts were literally frozen on the hub. We had to burn and then beat them off. Rears took an immense amount of beating before they came loose. Parking brakes were practically frozen in place. Did that about 2 years ago back in Michigan.
 
Ooooooh, I know alllll about those disks getting rusty.
HOLY CRAP!!! i thought i was the only one who had ever had that happen.
my 02 dodge did that when i brought it out from Iowa.lol. was a bitch getting the hat part off the hub with all the rust.
 
Road salt + never washing the underside of a truck + no more factory painting and rust proofing of new vehicles = **** rusted together that NEVER did before.
 
Top Bottom