What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

apology / looking for more help

S

solowookie

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 31, 2001
Posts
3,878
Reaction score
0
Location
Wyoming
ok guys...

first of all I didn't realize that all this stuff was getting to me until I got really mad
mad.gif
in my shop today, and I was looking back through my post where I was working on the bushing / oil pan gasket. I feel bad about how I handled everything. I kinda feel like I said stuff that I shouldn't have, and I apologize for that.

If it wasn't for everybodies input on this project on the boards here I'd be having a lot harder time, and I would still be looking at some unanswered questions.

I gotta a couple questions. first of all I have cyl #1 on TDC, and if I am correct I can determine if that is on the compression stroke (where it should be) by the lifter both being down as far as possible in the block (that is the way it is now)...

question #2; timing - again
tongue.gif
blush.gif

ok, I've got cyl #1 TDC according to the info above, and then I have that little thing that goes on the timing cover that should be sitting at 0 deg. when #1 is on TDC... where this bolts on the line in the balancer doesn't even register on that little thing???

there has been a LOT of strange stuff on this, and I am assuming that this has been slapped together, and kinda assuming right now that I am going to be needing another timing cover, or fabricating this on the existing cover somehow so it shows at 0 deg...

<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
 
You might have the crank/camshaft 180 degrees off. I think you have the engine at TDC for the exhaust stroke as opposed to TDC compression stroke. Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees and I'll bet the timing tab points to 0 degrees.

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.moabdadc22.alloffroad.com/>http://www.moabdadc22.alloffroad.com/</a>Real four wheelers don't need tools to remove body panels, paint, tail lights..etc.
 
well the crank is gonna turn 2 times for the cam to go around once, so zero degree's should line up either way??? (or am I crazy???)

also, I will be trying to line up the distributor with the #1 TDC so I would think it should be on compression to even time it (that will be when the thing is firing right???)

<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
 
Jeff, no your not crazy, it should line up at intake, compression, and exhaust

Jeff427
<a target="_blank" href=http://muddog.off-road.ws>Mud Dog Off Road Club</a>

<a target="_blank" href=http://lyonsdesign.bizhosting.com>Lyons Design Web Site</a>
 
Just turn the crank to where it meets "0" on the tab - as long as you put the timing set on right (dots pointing at each other), you're all set.

1 tequila 2 tequila 3 tequila Floor
<a target="_blank" href=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>pugsley.alloffroad.com</a>
 
Jeff, is there any way you could take a picture?

Jeff427
<a target="_blank" href=http://muddog.off-road.ws>Mud Dog Off Road Club</a>

<a target="_blank" href=http://lyonsdesign.bizhosting.com>Lyons Design Web Site</a>
 
Yes, you will turn the crank twice for the cam to turn once. It sounds dumb but are you sure you aligned the timing marks correctly? The mark on the crank should be in the 12 o'clock position and the cam mark in the 6 o'clock position. I hope I don't insult your intelligence with this post.

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.moabdadc22.alloffroad.com/>http://www.moabdadc22.alloffroad.com/</a>Real four wheelers don't need tools to remove body panels, paint, tail lights..etc.
 
this is what i do. you may have a buddy help you. put your thum/finger close to the #1 spark plug hole. turn the crankshaft untill you start feeling air(compression stroke) coming out of the plug hole(remove all the plugs it's easier to turn that way). when the piston reaches the top, you are at TDC.

stick a straw in the plug hole so that you touch the top of the piston and turn the crankshaft untill you feel that the piston has reached the top.

i usually don't go by the timing tab over the timing chain cover untill i do the above. there are 2 (i think) locations where the tab can go. On top of the timing chain cover and at about 30Deg from the top.

Once you are sure thay you are at TDC and your harmonic balancer and tab match, look at your rotor. It should point to piston #1. you can start the numbering from there or pull out the dist, point it to where you want it and turn the crank untill the dist and oil pump shaft match.

good luck,

ARQ.

1-72 4x4 CST Blazer
2-71 4x4 CST Blazer&lt;P ID="edit"&gt;&lt;FONT class="small"&gt;&lt;EM&gt;Edited by arq on 09/07/01 05:21 PM.&lt;/EM&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by arq on 09/07/01 05:23 PM.</FONT></P>
 
Oh yeah, I just realized, just because both valves are closed doesn't mean the piston is at TDC, the valves close at the beginning of the compression stroke, so the timing mark may not be close to the timing tab. Rotate it until the mark is at 0 and as long as the valves are still shut it should be right.

Jeff427
<a target="_blank" href=http://muddog.off-road.ws>Mud Dog Off Road Club</a>

<a target="_blank" href=http://lyonsdesign.bizhosting.com>Lyons Design Web Site</a>
 
man guys... I got the dots lined up right... I kinda thinking of turning that crank until that thing lines up to see where it is sitting at...

man I'll have to see if I can borrow a digital camera and take some pics of it. (the digital camera I've been using is my parents, and they've left on a mission for 1 1/2 years so I don't have that luxury anymore... LOL) anyway I got a camera on order that should be here within the next couple of weeks so I'll have one.

<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
 
Ummmmm... I have always put them together so the marks on the timing chain gears pointed at each other, where did you come up with the 12 o clock 6 o clock stuff???

Jeff427
<a target="_blank" href=http://muddog.off-road.ws>Mud Dog Off Road Club</a>

<a target="_blank" href=http://lyonsdesign.bizhosting.com>Lyons Design Web Site</a>
 
OK... I rotated the balancer until the line was at zero degree's... well the piston isn't TDC anymore, it is about 1/4 from the highest point (or a little more).

<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
 
Jeff, check your PMs (that doesn't sound good LOL)
smile.gif


Jeff427
<a target="_blank" href=http://muddog.off-road.ws>Mud Dog Off Road Club</a>

<a target="_blank" href=http://lyonsdesign.bizhosting.com>Lyons Design Web Site</a>
 
How can you tell the piston is not at TDC (not questioning you sanity, just curious as to how you can tell)?

Jeff427
<a target="_blank" href=http://muddog.off-road.ws>Mud Dog Off Road Club</a>

<a target="_blank" href=http://lyonsdesign.bizhosting.com>Lyons Design Web Site</a>
 
Go to the bottom of my website - there is a pic of the engine at TDC #1

The dots line up on the crank and cam gears. If you still have the timing cover off this is the best and fastest way to do it. I used a remote starter to knock the engine close then I used channel locks and grasped the crank shaft and got it perfect. Don't worry about the crank shaft, the metal in the channel locks is much softer than the crank so it will not scratch it!

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html>http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html</a>
So I says to him, I said, "get your own monkey."
1986 K5, 350 GM Crate, 700R4, NP208
 
ok... man guys I am kinda exasperated at this point...
tongue.gif


I'll have to decide how I am going to attack this in the morning... I'm wondering if this is a 305 balancer off the other block (I am assuming it is, and that the balancers are different)... not only that, but now I know that the block is a 305 I'm gonna get hit hard on the core charge!
mad.gif
frown.gif


<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
 
Gazed at this thread very fast but FWIW a 305 and a 350 are different in the respect that the timing marks are in different spots! Not sure if you know this. If I remember correct a 305 when the timing is a 12 o'clock the engine is at T.D.C. and a 350 is somewheres around 2:30.
Hope this makes sense or HTH

Ron

P.S. They are interchangable 'cept for the timing marks
 
makes lots of sense cuz that is exactly what I am seeing...
tongue.gif


<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
 
I'm running a 350 balancer on my 305 and had to put one of those timing degree tape on the balancer to be able to time it(or make a little degree thingy on the timing chain cover) The tape thing was easy and available from most performance shops.

Ron
 
yeah 305's and 350's have different balancers. Then I highly recomned turning the motor over till youy feel compression or arp pressure in the #1 plug hole. Then fromk there it should be easy enough

-Mikey
1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom