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Are gov loc's the only tra tion added that locks AFTER you start to spin?

shady

shady

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I'd like to do a traction adder primarily for DD and snowy weather use. (2wd Sierra)... Lockrite's, clutch style limited slip, Detroit locker, etc are all "locked" all the time when under power pretty much if my memory is correct.....:dunno: I want one that's always open even when giving it gas until a wheel starts spinning.... Are gov loc's the only option for that?
 
:doah:. Can't edit the title from mobile lol.
 
I think the gov-lock doesn't engage until it senses a 100 rpm difference in wheel speeds..then locks in with a bang,which is probably why so many 1/2 tons grenade,and earned them the name "gov-bomb"..
 
The gov-loc that I had in my '90 worked very smoothly. I saw it lock when my son was going up a ledge in Moab. The tire lifted, spun a little, maybe 2 revolutions since he was going so slow and touching the brakes. Then it carried that tire in the air for more than a foot going forward, while locked.

So my opinion is that a good one will lock with minimal tire speed and not bang. My guess is that wear can make the difference.

I don't know if that is enough to overcome the reputation. The only reason that I pulled it out is that the pinion dropped a tooth off. (10 bolt )
 
i can understand why theyd grenade in rocks or mud playing around. but normal easy driving snow use shouldnt be an issue im guessing... i just with there was an aftermarket version available that acts the same way.... cant seem to find one though
 
I was thinking of that. Wasn't sure how they worked though. I'm going to watch the video of it again when I get to a real computer. I was thinking that if a govloc is the only one that really acts that way, then it'd be easier for me to find a whole axle out of a similar truck with 4.11's and the G80 code. Probably cheaper too lol. Been wanting the lower gears so I can step an inch or 2 in tire diam for the look I'm going for
 
Well I didn't think about the truetrac. I have one in my '70 K10. I love it for that truck! It helps all the time, but I have had it in wet, greasy snow and it was good as well. I discovered that the rear disc brakes also helped in snow as they don't lock as abruptly as drums.
But yeah, I would highly recommend the truetrac!
 
shady said:
i can understand why theyd grenade in rocks or mud playing around. but normal easy driving snow use shouldnt be an issue im guessing... i just with there was an aftermarket version available that acts the same way.... cant seem to find one though
Click to expand...

You are talking about a 9.5" 14-bolt, right? In 8.5" 10-bolt form, the carrier itself is a weak point (mine cracked into fragments even though the locking mechanism was non-operational).

I would vote for a Truetrac. That's what I was going to use in my rig until finances became an issue.
 
The gov-lok in my 2500HD works great. Slightly spin the tires on ice, it locks up and off I go with the traction light flashing and random brakes grabbed here and there to keep those two dang tires from spinning at all LOL
 
Only problem with the truetrac is that it will still go "open" if there is no traction at one wheel. It can be remedied with a little apply of the brake, but it's not the same as the gov-lock. Nothing else out there I was able to find that would actually lock, and do so automatically while you are moving.

I'm not going to do a retrofit, but traction control with or without something like a truetrac, would probably be ideal for those of us that aren't really wheeling where a straight up locker would be beneficial.
 
I may have to look into the trutrac a little more. Still haven't watched a video on it.. I decided to spend some money on finishing my burb this week instead. Why try and get my rust free 2wd good in snow when I have a slowly rusting 4x4 right here lol. There will be occasions that it snows while I'm at work or something though so I still have to do something with this truck. Only down fall to the govloc is that im sort of making this like a sport truck..... So the trutrac would be a better choice maybe. Do they work like a clutch style,,,? Turning both wheels all the time but allowing slip when needed..? Or do they stay more open and bite in some when a wheel starts spinning...
 
The difference between a truetrac and say the Eaton Posi is that the posi "locks" the two axles together by spring pressure until the force on one side exceeds that spring pressure. The truetracs aren't relying on that pressure, it's all gear.

Perhaps someone can comment on a truetrac in the rear in snow/ice, but they are probably less likely to cause a loose back end than posi. Even the gov-lock will turn you sideways if conditions are right.
 
I've had a clutch type before and I didn't really think it was bad. never got that car stuck and I even had a 1/2 mile up hill driveway out in the country. but I figured the lock when needed might be better... I think that's how the ford locking rear works and my town car was amazing last year. drove home from work in 11" of unplowed snow with a few tire tracks in it with no issues. current truck spins when taking off gradually on wet pavement with 480# of sand in the back..... firestone destination A/T's with half tread. Town car had destination LE2's. I think the truck needs em too lol
 
watched the vid for the trutrac and it does look like the way to go.... way more expensive than I was wanting though. itd be about $800 or more to do that and gears. I think ill try for a GY rearend that already has 4.11's and the govloc first. probably only a few hundred
 
dyeager535 said:
Only problem with the truetrac is that it will still go "open" if there is no traction at one wheel. It can be remedied with a little apply of the brake, but it's not the same as the gov-lock. Nothing else out there I was able to find that would actually lock, and do so automatically while you are moving.
Click to expand...

The gov-lock in my 2003 S10 ZR2 would occasionally need you to apply the brake to engage it also.
 
Carcinogen said:
The gov-lock in my 2003 S10 ZR2 would occasionally need you to apply the brake to engage it also.
Click to expand...

The problem with the gov-locks (at least the 8.5 and 9.5" ones) IMO is that they still have very small components. Even if the carrier holds up, it takes seemingly little to destroy the clockwork-sized gear teeth that drive the whole thing. So you do end up with things like both axles sticking together like a spool, or no engagement.

If you need pedal input to lock, it wasn't working right.
 
dyeager535 said:
The problem with the gov-locks (at least the 8.5 and 9.5" ones) IMO is that they still have very small components. Even if the carrier holds up, it takes seemingly little to destroy the clockwork-sized gear teeth that drive the whole thing. So you do end up with things like both axles sticking together like a spool, or no engagement.

If you need pedal input to lock, it wasn't working right.
Click to expand...


Yeah, it was weird and only happened occasionally but I did buy the truck brand new, delivered from the factory. So it was always like that.
 
I will re-state my previous post, I have driven my big block short bed K10 in greasy, wet snow with a truetrac. It worked great. I have also used brake modulation to get it up some steep stuff with only an open front!
The truetrac is a torque biasing differential. It will give a certain bias of power transfer. It is not identical to a posi in reaction.
 
That's what I seen in the video:thumb: never knew that. Pretty cool vid actually
 
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