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are these nuts ok? *pics of my nuts inside*

78Suburban

78Suburban

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uboltnuts.jpg


when I had one new u bolt made, the spring shop gave me the u bolt and nuts in the right side of the picture. They're not all metal lock nuts, but they are long nuts and have alot of threaded area. Will these be ok? I'm about to get some new u bolts made for the rear axle, and I was wondering if I can just get this style nut at the spring shop, or if I need to search around and find some 5/8" all metal lock nuts?

thanks,
James
 
yeah thats what most ubolt shops give out, they should be fine. maybe mark the threads some how to see if they ever back out
 
i worked springs for 1 year. thay are fine. no problems. but dont ever try to reuse that style or any ubolt for that mater. not a good practice. i found out the hard way on my rid. almost lost front axle.:eek1: :mad:
 
I persoanlly would not use a nylock nut since they aren't a hardened nut. You would be better off using a pinch lock nut over a nylock nut any day. You should be able to get some tall hardened nuts from the local hardware store. Also, the washers you have under those nylock nuts aren't hardened washers either and that in itself will allow the nuts to come loose.
 
4X4HIGH said:
I persoanlly would not use a nylock nut since they aren't a hardened nut. You would be better off using a pinch lock nut over a nylock nut any day. You should be able to get some tall hardened nuts from the local hardware store. Also, the washers you have under those nylock nuts aren't hardened washers either and that in itself will allow the nuts to come loose.
Click to expand...

Right on all counts. NYLOCS ARE THE DEVIL.

If you wanna be sure, use a hard washer, then a high nut, then a crimp (stover) nut. Torque it to proper spec and check it.
 
Those long nuts and thick washers are the ONLY types I will run on any u-bolts on any of my vehicles. Make sure to use Lock-Tite, too.
 
Might the lock-tite give a false "read" when/if you retorque them? Pretty sure you're supposed to.
 
I've always cleaned mine up real good before retightening them. Especially using a wire wheel on the threads to clean them up, too.
 
Eh....what I'm thinking of is, you're supposed to install them, drive it 100 or 500 or 1000 mile or something, then retighten (torque to spec) them. Not take 'em off clean 'em and put 'em back on...we talking the same thing? :dunno:
 
K10A'sBROinSLO said:
Eh....what I'm thinking of is, you're supposed to install them, drive it 100 or 500 or 1000 mile or something, then retighten (torque to spec) them. Not take 'em off clean 'em and put 'em back on...we talking the same thing? :dunno:
Click to expand...
Oh yeah, you're right, but if you lock-tite them, and recheck after the mileage and find the nuts dont turn anymore after the torque wrench has clicked, then you know the LT is working, right?
Now if you didnt LT them, yes, the nuts probably will back off slightly but thats why I use the stuff in the first place and I've never had a nut back off on me, ever.
 
Just an FYI, Nyloc nuts are available in grade 8 form. I have them in the shop for spring eye bolts and such in 9/16" size. Here's a shot of them off my website.

Greasablebolt.jpg


I do agree though, U bolts should use the longer nuts. The increased length makes for less vibrating loose, added to the fact that they are fine thread. Good combination for resisting vibration. Most times after initial torque, the second torque you will get a little more out of it, I don't believe the nut has loosened but more the ubolt has taken a set to the shape of the axle rather than the shape of the die it was bent around.
 
I don't think the reason you retorque them is in case they back off - it's because they stretch, conform, and settle a little bit as you drive, so you retorque to take up the "slack".

EDIT: Cybr and I are saying the same thing at the same time.
 
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