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are you like me/not 1 upgrade ever goes right??

RootBreaker

3/4 ton status
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you know murphy is so dayum old that he needs to kick the bucket :crazy:

other than all my past upgrades that all took alot of finess due to stupid crap that never works right..... it doesnt stop...

so now I put my new column in... 85 in a 78..... high beams and wipers on column work... :wink1:

washers and horn dont :doah:
not a biggie... washers are on a switch and who needs a horn when your tires hum louder than a locomotive :haha:

so I did the hydraulic clutch conversion.. other than taking 4 nights to try and get the tranny back in all went I guess ok.... however bleeding this biatch is not going good.... my old mechanic finally said... you push the pedal down... hold... crack bleeder... then close bleeder... let pedal up and push down and repeat steps.. do not pump... so I did this last night and alot of fluid (no air from what I saw or heard) came out.... well get in truck... start it up.. and try and put in gear..... will only engage if I MASH the pedal to the floor and slam it into gear.... let clutch out and it engages within 1/4" of releasing the pedal :doah:
Is that right????

so anyway I was going to get gas since it was low..... put it in gear and turn on the headlights... well I had the door open and the interrior light went off.... I was like... huh.. oh well..... but then realizing my fuel pump was not on... loud chattery type ..... she just died.... :eek1:

so got under the dash and looked around.. jiggled the entire wire harness and the light came back on... truck wouldnt start and I still couldnt hear the pump... so I took the pump out of ignition and put it into 2 other ignition spots...no go.. put it into battery.... well viola... got fuel pump back...

oh yeah all my gauges stopped working... not one...

volt meter is pegged down below 8, oil psi is in the middle, fuel gauge is at 1/2 with full tank, temp pegs past 260 degrees....... they all worked before I changed the column and clutch

if it aint one thing it is another.... this is driving me crazy!!!!!!!!!!

so tonight im going to cleanup the garage some.... pickup all my tools and cleanup the hell hole of a mess from lifting a 1998 4 door blazer in my driveway last weekend..... then tear the harness apart and figure what the hell happened... wonder if it would have anything to do with the column??? but doesnt the ignition parts of the fuse block feed from the starter????...... :doah:

with my winch on the way it would be nice to get something done right!!!!!!
 
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Thats why I love not having to drive mine everyday, I had some problems fixing a little rust on mine last week and said hell with it and parked, got out my table saw and started doing some wood work. Mayby thus weekend i will finish the patch panels and get it ready to be caged and full topless but its nice to have another hobby thats relaxing too.
 
What fun would it be if it went right the first time? I thought that the first time was a run through so you could figure out how to do it right on the third time. It is much easier when you are not working on your DD.
 
oh yeah added this too

oh yeah all my gauges stopped working... not one...

volt meter is pegged down below 8, oil psi is in the middle, fuel gauge is at 1/2 with full tank, temp pegs past 260 degrees....... they all worked before I changed the column and clutch



maybe I should have stayed with the old column and mechanical clutch linkage that wasnt working right??????

to everyone else what I do is considered and upgrage... do me it is a downgrade....... :doah:
 
so I did the hydraulic clutch conversion.. other than taking 4 nights to try and get the tranny back in all went I guess ok.... however bleeding this biatch is not going good.... my old mechanic finally said... you push the pedal down... hold... crack bleeder... then close bleeder... let pedal up and push down and repeat steps.. do not pump... so I did this last night and alot of fluid (no air from what I saw or heard) came out.... well get in truck... start it up.. and try and put in gear..... will only engage if I MASH the pedal to the floor and slam it into gear.... let clutch out and it engages within 1/4" of releasing the pedal

Try this..
Clamp the clutch fork in place to the bellhousing then push the pedal down and crack the bleeder..
 
mike'sk5 said:
Try this..
Clamp the clutch fork in place to the bellhousing then push the pedal down and crack the bleeder..


huh??? so the slave cylinder piston part that pushes the clutch fork should be in our out?

thanks :bow:
Jeff
 
I was just thinking god forbid....

anyhow.. when I put my starter back in.. hooked up the negative battery lead.. the truck started to crank over.. seems that the fuseable link on the small wire on the starter has bare wire showing on both ends... so moved it and that problem went away...

however... isnt that the ignition feed? the truck starts and drives fine...
also I have a wire in the fuse box... old ignition wire that stopped working and we cut it and put a new wire in.... well I think that may have become hot after I jiggled the fusebox again... may have blown a fuse or even the fuseable link...

that would make sense.. as I lost all 3 ignition parts on the fuse block and also NO gauges :doah:
 
What are you complaining about? That upgrade went smoother than if I were to do it with fewer problems....
 
Anytime I've install something with no problems, I go back and look for problems or wait for something to fall out.
 
happens all the time to me. this one time all I wanted to do was change out the rear bushing to greasables, someting that should of taken a day or so ended up being 3 weeks :eek1: it's just part of the game.
 
LMAO heck yeah im the same way. the one time it went smooth- i stood there drinking a beer and scratching my head trying to think what i forgot to do, SOMETHING has to be wrong. turned out was ok - still waiting for my front u-bolts to pop of or something :doah:
 
by the way, they make a nipple u can replace ure stock one with that u just crack open and it alows fluid out and no air in. so just pump and keep checking fluid
 
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