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ARP bolts

Agreed.

ARP are worth it for specialized and critical bolts but I wouldn’t spend that money there - unless you’re going with studs for the bellhousing.

edit: Critical being mains, rods, steering arm, etc. Things like bellhousing and motor mounts my not have even been grade 8 from GM.
 
Ok, what about cross member bolts? Upgrade to grade 8 as well, assuming the ones I have out are not
 
Right, I have all those bolts out while the transmission is being rebuilt. So I figured Id upgrade.

Now can anyone link Ujoint bolt kits if they exist? The ones I took from the rear drive shaft are a bit mangled and Id like to replace those as well.
 
1310 joint? Bolt and strap or is the bolt the strap?
 
the flex plate to crank bolts and torque converter to flex plate, are special, and sometimes hard to find. ARP has these bolts and I wouldn't hesitate to use them. All my rebuilt engines get minimum ARP rod bolts, most get mains also.
 
I would use ARP on the flywheel crank bolts, and torque converter mounting bolts.. all others, I would replace with grade 8.

You should pull and inspect the flexplate while you have the trans out. any sign of wear, cracks, worn teeth on the ring gear are good reasons to replace it now.

For the price,,,it's cheap insurance..
 
On another note,,, replacing main bolts with studs requires the block to be align honed.
This is done to insure roundness of the crank bore as the mains are torqued.

Replacing rod bolts will require the large end of the rods to be resized....

just an FYI...
 
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I can't remember ever getting anything align bored and honed when switching from bolts to studs. Some stuff needs it because it was never close to begin with. If anything, the studs should make it cleaner because all you're doing is pulling on the threads, there is no "torque" on them to distort the metal.

I buy ARP stuff if it is anything mission critical, there aren't many of them, or it is a PITA to get to them. So flexplate to crank... yeap... flexplate to troque converter... nope. Rods/mains/heads get studded every time. Oil pan rail... nope... intake... sometimes.

Sometimes it's cheaper just to get it from ARP than source it from places like Fastenal anyway. Unless it is NC or NF 'merican thread.

Rods should be resized every time...
 
I know going from head bolts to studs requires the cylinders being line honed. Can't for sure say crank but it would make sense. Plus it's cheap insurance.
 
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