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Articulation and suspension

mud hungry

mud hungry

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 4, 2004
Posts
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Location
Haydenville, Massachusetts
/forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif looking to put a 6" lift into a 84 K5 along with running 35's/12.5's, what manufacturers would you recommend, and how are the articulation for them. The truck is mostly a daily driver that is set up for fun in the mud and some(rarely) rock play. Any suggestions. I was thinking on going with skyjacker's 6" and with that what else should I plan on getting so everything works the way it is suppose to. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
how do they ride on pavement. what other mods will i need to do? Anything to the steering? what about axles what would you suggest for about 350 horses 350 torque.
 
they are the softest riding springs, so they will ride very nice on pavement. You will have to do a few mods to accomadate the 6" of lift... a few are extended brake lines, and steering corrections. If your just going to run 35" tires, your (stock?) axles should hold up.
 
you'll also have to modify your driveshafts. and don't forget to change your gears when you go to bigger tires. BDS also has a lifetime warranty on their springs. when I get new springs, that's what I plan to run.
 
Stock axles I believe are the Corp. 10 bolts. what would you suggest as a good gear ratio. I was thinking 3:93:1. Another question I have is about lockers. I was looking at the ARB lockers, any comments/suggestions. Has anyone ever used the Atlas 2 Transfer. Likes or dislikes?
 
Slow down there just a little man. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

First off...
For a 6" lift you will need extended brake lines, and a raised steering arm. You will just have to see what your drivelines look like after the lift. Chances are you will need to drop the t-case mount, get a kit, dont use the stock spacers that are on the inside of the frame like I did because the torque will crack the frame at the mount(like what happened to me /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif). I got away with my stock drivelines for a long time but when I went 3/4ton with boggers and a healthy motor it was time for beefier parts.

As for your drivetrain you will need more mods there than anything. First thing is to address your stock gear ratio. You probably have 3.08 gears, most of the earlier 80's blazers do. This is a bad ratio even for stock 31's IMHO. 3.91:1 are not going to be ideal. 4.56's would be much better, maybe even 4.88's. This would be a good time to go with 3/4 ton running gear to save money by finding a set of axles with factory 4.56's or even 4.10's if 4.56's are not obtainable.

As for a drive train that can handle 350/350 power numbers, it would probably come down to the tire you choose. There is a large difference between a BFG A/T vs. a Super Swamper Bogger. I would personally go with 3/4 ton while you have the truck torn apart because in the long run you will not have to worry about breakage and it will save money.

If you choose to keep dual 10b's I would gear them, after market shafts and a good posi in the rear, the front should be fine stock. With a 14b you could throw in a Detroit locker and be good to go in the rear. The front axle will be the same as your 1/2 ton front. Don't forget that if you choose to go 3/4 ton you will need 8 lug rims.

With the 350/350 power numbers you are after you will have to deal with transmission problems, especially with an early model th700R4.

/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
That is the type of information that I am looking for. i was thinking of using 3/4ton's front and rear. I don't want to have to change them later. I am looking for a good on and off road ration for the front and rear for Daily driving. right now I have sm465 4sp in there now but I am thinking on putting a NV4500 5sp, it is the only one that I have found that can bolt up to the 350. And I want it for the extra gear. for tires pro comps mudterrain's 35/12.5's I just want to do things right and take a little longer at it then having to fix later when all together. On the kits where can i find the drop kit for the T-Case.
 
[ QUOTE ]
On the kits where can I find the drop kit for the T-Case.

[/ QUOTE ]

The t-case drop kits may help with the rear driveshaft angle but will make worse the front driveshaft angle; a waste of time and money in my opinion.
 
Sugestions. I am being told to drop the T-case with a lowering mount another is saying don't bother. I just want to be able to have eveything run smoothly what is the best way to go
 
I would put the lift on and check your tranfer case output operating angle and your pinion operating angle and go from there. There should only be a few degrees difference between the two. If the difference is greater than a few degrees you can drop the t-case or use shims on the axle.
 
on my 84 i did a 6" lift and I it had a horrible vibration so I went with a new drive shaft with a one ton CV and problem solved, the front one is to short but its still on there barley I think. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
That is the type of information that I am looking for. i was thinking of using 3/4ton's front and rear. I don't want to have to change them later. I am looking for a good on and off road ration for the front and rear for Daily driving. right now I have sm465 4sp in there now but I am thinking on putting a NV4500 5sp, it is the only one that I have found that can bolt up to the 350. And I want it for the extra gear. for tires pro comps mudterrain's 35/12.5's I just want to do things right and take a little longer at it then having to fix later when all together. On the kits where can i find the drop kit for the T-Case.

[/ QUOTE ]You sound like you are on the right track. I did not relize you had an SM465, that simplifies tranny issues. I can say I don't know what your drivelines will look like with the 465 since my truck is an auto but IIRC most people can't get away with the stock shafts on a 6 incher with the manaul trans. If that is the case than I would forget the tcase mount drop (1 less thing to do) and just build a nice 1350 joint CV shaft for the rear and an extended stocker up front(the stock shaft can take a lot fo abuse with 35's, that has been my experience) I just had mine rebuilt and extended and with a whole new 1350 jointed 4" tubed rear shaft. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

The reason why I said a 3/4 swap would be cheaper is because by the time you have the gears changed, add a locker to the rear, and go with some quality forged shafts also for the rear professionally installed you would be easily at $2K with the 10B's. You should be able to pick up a complete 3/4 set basically ready to go with 4.10's or 4.56's for 100-500 dollars and a locker for the rear and be done for under $1K if your bearings, seals, ball joints, brakes are in useable condition. Plus there is the cool factor of being 3/4 ton when a fellow blazer owner walks up and asks "is that the stock axle?" /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Just remember that you want a 14BFF out of a 3/4 truck because it is a strait bolt in, a 14bff out of a 1 ton is different.

The Nv4500 is a great tranny, I have one behind a vortec 454 in my 98 chevy dually work truck. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Oh, and I don't like pro comp tires, the BFG M/T is a much better tire because it wears better and looks better IMHO.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Sugestions. I am being told to drop the T-case with a lowering mount another is saying don't bother. I just want to be able to have eveything run smoothly what is the best way to go

[/ QUOTE ]I think it's a good idea to drop it if done right because the less driveshaft angle the better, especially with a short wheelbase blazer.
 
Okay, if this is mostly a daily driver and mudding truck, I highly recomend 36x14.50x15 Denman Ground Hawg 2's. Some people may not like the way they look, but there is no arguement that they will out last most tires on the market. I think they do great in the mud. Now for the lift. I would go with Tuff Country 6" Springs front + ORD Heavy duty extended shackles. (6.5" lift front) and for the rear I'd run ORD 4" shackle flip + Tuff Couintry 3" springs. (7" lift rear) You can get everything from ORD. Makes it easy by just calling one place for everything. They can put together a complete "kit" with everything you'll need except the driveshafts.
 
The stock front driveshaft is not going to cut it with 6" of lift and an SM 465. You might as well throw it away entirely.

My pinion is rolled down some so my angles are pretty excessive, but I'd be shocked to see any shaft 28" long like that operate at less than 23* with a 6" lift, mine operates at 28* at ride height.

The stock configuration slants the motor back in the chassis at least 4*. You'd be a fool to drop your transfer case, it'd destroy your front angles even worse then they'll be already. Fortunately since yours is an '84, it has the newer tranny/transfer case which is longer, making for a slightly longer front driveshaft.

ORD's longer shackles or any longer shackles in general will only make the angles worse, although the bolt upgrade and keeping the spring eyes off the frame is a good idea, also.

The Skyjacker springs you mentioned are actually not that stiff and flex well. It all depends on what you're using the truck for. Everyone around here raves and runs right for the Tuff Country springs because they're super soft, but that is not the answer for everybody.

Nearly all springs have a lifetime warranty. Everyone runs for BDS because of their warranty. I can't stress enough in auto parts not to buy a warranty. Buy and pay for the quality of the product, not the warranty. I'm not saying BDS is not good quality, that couldn't be further from the truth, but don't buy any product just because of a warranty.

Nearly every spring has a lifetime warranty. Buy the springs that have the rate to fit your needs.
 
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