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ATF carbon removal trick?

AJMBLAZER

AJMBLAZER

Better to be lucky than good.
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How do you do the carbon removal trick with ATF on a TBI truck? I would like to do it because I do a lot of stop and go driving, so I bet I've got some carbon in there. Please break it down rinky-tink style because I have a tendency to get confused by technical stuff.
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Also, could I do it with some Mobil 1 synthetic ATF? I have a few quarts of it lying around, so I'd like to use some of that instead of buying some more ATF if I can. Thanks.

1992 Blazer Sport, 350 TBI, 4L60, 3" Flowmaster, K&N, 3" Rancho, 285/75R16 on 16x8 Baja's
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Why burn Mobil 1 ATF fluid? I use that for my Dodge's TorqueFlite auto and it's $$$. Just look in your couch for 4 quarters, go the the local auto parts store and buy the cheapest stuff on the shelves, usually 99 cents a bottle.
It does NOT have to be a quaity ATF by any means. All you really want out of the ATF is the high detergent content.

I've not done the ATF thing, but the last discussion said to unhook your PVC line and let it use engine vacuum to suck it in. I'd only do a little at a time because I'd be worried about hydrolock, but I'm a little paranoid like that.
-- Mike
 
Forget ATF for the intake side. Go buy GM top engine cleaner, IF it is recommended for TBI Units (Don't know why it wouldn't be) Everyone I know that has used that stuff in their carbed vehicles, says that stuff works wonders. It is truly amazing how well it works for most owners. As to the ATF, I HAVE used it in an attempt to break apart the sludge and stuff in the crankcase/heads on a high mile motor. That may not be the best idea, because you can clog the oil return holes from the heads though, it did no harm to my vehicles.

Dorian
My K5 and Chev/Olds links: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html>http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html</A>
 
I'm interested in that trick, too. I've wanted to do it as well but am not exactly sure how much of the ATF to use. Anyone out there know?
 
IN the crankcase? I'd say at least one quart. Dump it into your oil before an oil change. Drive around a bit, then change filter and fluid. i forgot to add before that water from a spray bottle is also supposed to help remove carbon, but it didn't work on my motor at all that I coud tell, besides white smoke from the water. On my 415CID motor, it didn't even hesitate when I did it.

Dorian
My K5 and Chev/Olds links: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html>http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html</A>
 
I learned from my Corvair group that water does a very good job of breaking up and removing carbon from the engine, gotta watch that on (air-cooled engines). All you have to do is pour a "LITTLE" stream into the intake with the engine running about 2000 rpm. And when I say little stream I mean like 16oz. over 90-120sec or longer. You should have black carbon blow out the tailpipe. Keep it up until you don't see it any more. Yes, it is ok to put water in the intake as long as you do it slowly. Racers use it on turbo-charger systems to increase boost pressure - euro rally cars boost up to 35psi or so! Check out this site www.aquamist.com


P.S. No! The car has not been banned, turned over or killed me yet!

Josh
 
Not that I am aware of. Doesn't mean there aren't, you would be best off calling local auto supply houses and checking. I don't think it's real pricey (relatively I guess) at about $10 or less per container.

Dorian
My K5 and Chev/Olds links: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html>http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html</A>
 
Yeah that stuff does work. My shop van had developed a very bad miss. So bad it would stall. We thought it was a bad plug wire and sent it to the dealer accross the street that had recently tuned it up figuring they would cover it under warranty. He calls back tells me they checked the plug wires and they were good. did a compression test and number 7 was poping off about 70psi the rest were normal. They figure it was a burnt valve and said we probably are going to have to pull the head. THANK GOD the mechanic decided before going to all that trouble to try the top end cleaner ($8 bucks on the invoice). He gets done and it's purring. does another compression test and it comes up to normal. Yeah that stuff does the trick. Now the mechanic said somthing about using half the bottle then letting it sit then run the rest through. might want to ask on of the mechnics.

Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
Grim-Reaper
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
 
Yep, the turbo guys sometimes will run water, or more commonly alky. It really helps cool down the intake charge, cuz the turbo likes to really heat it up. Compressing air = heating air. A big reason the 86/87 Grand Nationals/T's where so much more powerfull from the previous years, they had an intercooler. Kinda like a radiator for the air after the turbo.

'75 Blazer blue/white
350/350

87 Turbo Regal
a few bolt-ons
[email protected]
 
I did the ATF thing. I think next time I'll try the top engine cleaner. The ATF through the PCV valve made so much smoke I had my neighbors comming outside. They thought I blew my engine. One guy driving buy looked so worried I thought he was goin to call the fire department!

The ATF did a number on my plugs. The engine never died, but it must have made a lot of heat because the plugs were caked with hard carbon.

Just try the Top Engine Cleaner. The $8 bucks is worth saving the embarassment.

What I want to know is how do you get all of the carbon out of your headers and tailpipe?
 
Toad, park your truck on an incline and do the water thing. Heheheh, steam it out. In all honesty it should should work considering it would come out. I wonder if this process plugs up your cats. too.
 
Top engine cleaner makes the truck smoke real bad too.
I did it on my buick, didn't notice much.

'75 Blazer blue/white
350/350

87 Turbo Regal
a few bolt-ons
[email protected]
 
Hi Guys, I used to work on these large Dodge Motor Coaches. They would all have big blocks in them. Part of my tune up, would be to "decabon" them. I would pour upwards of a gallon of cold water, with the engine at full throttle. You should have seen some of those carbon sparks, comming out of those short motor home exhaust systems. If you let the engine stall, you may have a time getting it started again. Cold water works the best, just dribble it in all the venturies at high trottle. GOPHERKILLER
 
Why not pour the ATF into the gas and clean the top end that way? This is what I do. I pour a quart into the tank every other month, this cleans the injectors out also.
 
Welcome aboard man! Has the wife said yes to a K5 yet? I'm going to do it the way my buddy on ORC/C told me about. I'm intriqued by your ATF in the gas tank trick though.

1992 Blazer Sport, 350 TBI, 4L60, 3" Flowmaster, K&N, 3" Rancho, 285/75R16 on 16x8 Baja's
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Yes we have to wait to get tax money back before she will let me get the Blazer. Then away we go. A friend of mine works for a large trucking company as a mechanic. When they change the fuel filters out, they prime them with ATF. This cleans the injectors. He is the one who told me about the ATF in the gas. I have been doing this for around 7 years with no problems. I am planning on making my own suspension for the Blazer. Coilover 4 link set up.
 
When decorboning big motorhomes, we would dump so much cold water down the carb. Allways did it on a hot engine. I know we got All the carbon out. They wouln't idle before, could stand a nickle on the valve cover after, they idled so smooth!
 
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