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Atl-atl's K5 Blazer Four Wheel Camper "The Crawlin Cabin" documentation thread!

ZooMad75 said:
Holy crap I thought I just went on a rampage through Summit and Amazon. Well done dude. The paint we used was VHT chevy orange. We did go with the VHT primer below it, but for touch up I'd clean it and throw more orange at it.

Honestly with the 465 and your manual pedal set I'd get a new pivot ball and the rest of the mechanical linkage. Just to keep it simple you know. That will do more to keep the engine mounting in the stock location so the clutch linkage will match up without crazy modifications. The frame Larry has coming to fix his K10 might have the other stuff on it, or at least the frame mounted parts you'll need. I'll check on that for you.

The throwout bearing on that one might have 5,000 miles on it as I put a new clutch in and within a year the 12b spit out a tooth and it didn't get driven again.

I wouldn't sweat the intake runners in the heads. You could seafoam it once it's running or GM top engine clean but look further down in the head and you'll see the valves are pretty clean and no nuggets of carbon build up on them. Or at least thats what I saw when I peeked down in there.

As far as the clutch flywheel situation goes I think you got it backwards. You won't be able to bolt up a gen 1 small block flywheel to a LS engine. But just get a Sachs 1050 flywheel and it is the .400" thicker version to allow the clutch to be in the stock location to the 465. You can use the stock 11" or 12" truck clutch that would have been used in your truck had it come with the manual to start with. Yes, you'll need to get the LS specific flywheel bolts. They are torque to yield so you need to by new,as they shouldn't be reused.
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I did notice that the valves appear to be shiny and clean, just couldn't get a good picture. Im a stickler about making/keeping things clean and taking lots of close up pictures so I probably come off as being nit-picky. As for the clutch and flywheel, I might have misspoken. What I ordered is a Sachs NFW1050 flywheel and a LUK 04064 clutch. I will definitely be asking you guys about what parts to order in between the clutch pedal and the throwout bearing because thats one of the remaining things I havent researched. I also ordered a 31 gallon '87+ gas tank, matching tank straps, fuel pump, sending unit, braided stainless/ptfe fuel lines, inline filter, AN fittings for everything, the alternator and harness you told me about, a matching tach for my cluster from LMC as well as a matching small fuel gauge to replace the dummy light on the dash and a bunch of other stuff that Ive already forgotten hahaha. The new tachs that LMC sells are updated to accept higher RPMs and modern electronics so I decided to try this route instead of going with a dakota digital or new vintage setup. Hopefully I dont regret that.

Do you (or anyone else) happen to know a part number or the exact part name for the flywheel bolts that I need?
 
For the flywheel bolts the GM part # 11569956 or ARP 330-2802. The GM number is by the bolt, ARP is a package of 6.
 
Its so compact, I love it.

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It doesn't look like a lot of work but I spent a solid 3 hours cleaning the engine today. In the grand scheme of things, it wasn't really that dirty but there are so many little crevices. Thankfully the dirt was mostly dust, the engine is very dry. The only thing even close to what might be a leak is where the extended oil filler neck had popped its o-ring partially out you can see some black crud on the valve cover. I removed the neck and just screwed the cap right onto the valve cover and it looks much better. Also removed the idler pulley that sits where the new AC mounting bracket will go. Im not sure if the intake that came with the engine will work with AC in this location. Hopefully find out tomorrow. Its so damn hot out I cant work in the garage for more than a few hours a day.

Hopefully its obvious which side is the "after."

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Removed all the coil packs and cleaned them as well as the valve covers and heads.

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Cleaned the intake manifold, fuel rails, throttle body etc. Cleaned up the intake manifold gasket, its in good shape but I ordered a new one just in case.

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Dropped the intake manifold onto the block just to see how it looks. Im waiting on some new sensors before I bolt it down. Also Im going to touch up the paint beforehand. Napa didnt call to tell me if my alternator came in so I didnt grab paint yet.

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Also talked to @ZooMad75 for quite a while today. Apparently the pedal assembly I just picked up is hydraulic and the bell housing I have is cable. Sounds like Ill have to run a Novak Conversions hydraulic slave cylinder adaptor. This should allow me to run the rest of the factory hydraulic clutch parts. I want to run hydraulic not mechanical. Its already going to be difficult enough to drive this damn thing. I also learned its a pedal assembly for vacuum braking which is unfortunate because it would be really nice to run a hydroboost setup. The current vacuum brakes are horrendous at best. I need to look further into this before I get extra power, lift and big tires on the truck. Its gonna need to stop.
 
I just noticed something in your pics. When I removed the harness at the intake it looks like at least one gasket per side in an injector. Might want to fish those out and put them back into the injector plugs so they don't get lost. I don't think it's too easy to go buy more of those.

But the cleanup came out great. It's why I wanted to paint it in the first place to make cleanup easy. Plus a Chevy orange LS engine is just cool to me.
 
ZooMad75 said:
I just noticed something in your pics. When I removed the harness at the intake it looks like at least one gasket per side in an injector. Might want to fish those out and put them back into the injector plugs so they don't get lost. I don't think it's too easy to go buy more of those.

But the cleanup came out great. It's why I wanted to paint it in the first place to make cleanup easy. Plus a Chevy orange LS engine is just cool to me.
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I also noticed those injector gasket/seal/grommets/whatever they're called when I was cleaning today. Ill make sure to account for them. I need to check the harness for the other 6. I friggin love the orange, its my favorite color. In case the camper interior didnt give that away! I might have ordered entirely black and orange braided lines and AN fittings for the fuel system...
 
Atl-atl said:
I also noticed those injector gasket/seal/grommets/whatever they're called when I was cleaning today. Ill make sure to account for them. I need to check the harness for the other 6. I friggin love the orange, its my favorite color. In case the camper interior didnt give that away! I might have ordered entirely black and orange braided lines and AN fittings for the fuel system...
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As per our text conversation, earlier today here is the required reading for the Hydroboost brake questions.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/illustrated-hydroboost-swap.306221/

Enjoy!
 
As for the ports, suck them out with the vacuum
 
Bent77 said:
As for the ports, suck them out with the vacuum
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I have been doing that as I clean. Unfortunately when I drove home with everything in the back of the Tacoma, the 700r4 leaked a ton of fluid and I had to stop to put kitty litter down in the entire bed of the truck because it was dripping everywhere underneath, getting on my tires etc. Well apparently kitty litter is light enough that highway speeds will pick it up and toss it around. It was everywhere. The intake manifold was on the truck loosely bolted into place but when I removed it theres a good chance some gunk might have fallen into the heads. I need to rig up some kind of straw or small hose onto the end of my vacuum to be able to stick down inside the intake ports. The suction device we use in surgery would be perfect for this.
 
Bwahaha

sorry


Duct tape a fuel line hose or small heater hose to the shop vac and go
 
I snugged the intake bolts down with my fingers but the gasket should have stopped most crud from getting in there.

Take the straight nozzle of your vacuum and stick it in the port and cover the rest of the port with you hand. It should seal up enough to pull anything loose out of the port.
 
ZooMad75 said:
I snugged the intake bolts down with my fingers but the gasket should have stopped most crud from getting in there.

Take the straight nozzle of your vacuum and stick it in the port and cover the rest of the port with you hand. It should seal up enough to pull anything loose out of the port.
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I vacuumed the shit out of it, hopefully it works. Otherwise heads/cam/intake it will be!!! :haha:

Today I drove up to a little bumblef*ck town about an hour north of Phoenix to pick up a different bellhousing for the SM465. I learned that I had the bellhousing for a mechanical clutch and it would be easier to make this all work if I could find one for a hydraulic clutch so I can use all factory GM parts. There are conversions available to run a hydro slave cylinder on the mechanical bellhousing but they are not "off the shelf" parts and Id rather have stock stuff. Apparently they are hard to find yet somehow I found one the first day I looked! :D

When I pull up to the house its a typical "unincorporated such-n-such county" type place and there are cars everywhere. Definitely in the right place. (Spoiler alert, I dont die) Guy comes out and invites me over to the garage where there is a literal assembly line of transmissions. Turns out he "retired" from his lifelong business rebuilding transmissions and just cant let it go. So I grab the bellhousing and then think hey, I need a 2WD output shaft and tail housing for the 700r4 to throw in my bosses C10. Of course he has about 73 to choose from! So I grab those parts too and after about an hour and a half talking about everything going on in the modern world, Im finally back on the road. I call my boss with the good news, swing by his house, the two of us take the trans and parts over to the shop that did the current driveline on his truck and we drop everything off. The 700 is getting the 2WD treatment, new internals, new dipstick and a higher stall converter. I was promised burnouts when its done. :laugh:

Im not 100% sure this bellhousing will work, most of the holes line up but I think it might have been bolted to a Dodge motor not a Chevy. The two bottom holes on the loose housing are angled backwards about 45 degrees and dont line up with the two lower holes on the housing thats mounted to the trans. Can anyone tell from these pictures if thats accurate? Is there a difference between Chevy bellhousing bolt patterns and others? Everything else lines up. How many bolts need to match between the bellhousing and the block to be acceptable?

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Atl-atl said:
I vacuumed the shit out of it, hopefully it works. Otherwise heads/cam/intake it will be!!! :haha:

Today I drove up to a little bumblef*ck town about an hour north of Phoenix to pick up a different bellhousing for the SM465. I learned that I had the bellhousing for a mechanical clutch and it would be easier to make this all work if I could find one for a hydraulic clutch so I can use all factory GM parts. There are conversions available to run a hydro slave cylinder on the mechanical bellhousing but they are not "off the shelf" parts and Id rather have stock stuff. Apparently they are hard to find yet somehow I found one the first day I looked! :D

When I pull up to the house its a typical "unincorporated such-n-such county" type place and there are cars everywhere. Definitely in the right place. (Spoiler alert, I dont die) Guy comes out and invites me over to the garage where there is a literal assembly line of transmissions. Turns out he "retired" from his lifelong business rebuilding transmissions and just cant let it go. So I grab the bellhousing and then think hey, I need a 2WD output shaft and tail housing for the 700r4 to throw in my bosses C10. Of course he has about 73 to choose from! So I grab those parts too and after about an hour and a half talking about everything going on in the modern world, Im finally back on the road. I call my boss with the good news, swing by his house, the two of us take the trans and parts over to the shop that did the current driveline on his truck and we drop everything off. The 700 is getting the 2WD treatment, new internals, new dipstick and a higher stall converter. I was promised burnouts when its done. :laugh:

Im not 100% sure this bellhousing will work, most of the holes line up but I think it might have been bolted to a Dodge motor not a Chevy. The two bottom holes on the loose housing are angled backwards about 45 degrees and dont line up with the two lower holes on the housing thats mounted to the trans. Can anyone tell from these pictures if thats accurate? Is there a difference between Chevy bellhousing bolt patterns and others? Everything else lines up. How many bolts need to match between the bellhousing and the block to be acceptable?

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50112822836_34f3d98909_b.jpg
Click to expand...

The hydro bell has the mounting flanges for support struts that go up to a motor mount bolt on each side. The bell will still work with the older trans.
 
Well I have gotten precisely zero done on the Blazer since its just sitting in storage. This has allowed for one thing to happen though. Procurement of parts. One more looong box shows up on Monday and I will have everything in my possession except the radiator fans. Christmas in July, as they say.

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I've got a similar pile in my living room. I'm sure my UPS guy is tired of me. Still have more inbound.
 
beags86 said:
Hell bulleit is my expensive whiskey. I would hate to know what you drink that you think is expensive.
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Ha. The most expensive whiskey ive ever had was Thomas H. Handy Sazerac straight rye whiskey. It was $28 a pour at a bar in Boise. Cheapest bottle of it that Ive seen for sale is $600. I dont own a bottle of that hahaha. My typical fancy whiskey is Stranahans or a Whistlepig variant, the Farmstock and 10 year rye are my favs from them.
 
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