Atl-atl's K5 Blazer Four Wheel Camper "The Crawlin Cabin" documentation thread!

[ZooMad75]

The air cleaner is off of an '87 truck with a big block, so the routing diagram might not be spot on. Good to have for the larger filter for sure.

 

[Atl-atl]

A bunch of stuff showed up from LMC truck yesterday A new grill which I accidentally ordered badgeless. I got one of the sweet reproduction bowtie's and I cant put it on now. Also all new door seals, window seals, door hinges and some other misc. stuff. Man these hinges are an incredible pain in the ass. I literally spent the entire day just on the passenger door and its still not close. Im half tempted to take it to a body shop and pay them whatever they want to do the drivers door and align the passenger side. They're probably all slow right now with nobody on the road crashing into each other. Also removed most of the side mounted spare tire carrier and installed the bulb seal I had laying around on the camper which really cleaned up the look.

 

[Atl-atl]

At first I thought the holes were wallowed out beyond what a new pin/bushings would fix. I still think they might be but I just put the passenger door back together after a day and a half trying to align it and only got back to where it was with the old hinges. Unreal. I might try to replace the pins on the drivers side. I have a new set I can use. If not itll be going to a body shop. For the time being, I need to work on something else hahaha. Front wheel bearings and driveshaft u-joints are in order.

 

[ZooMad75]

Looks like a lot of fun headed your way. Better to do it now than on the trail.

 

[Atl-atl]

Looks like a lot of fun headed your way. Better to do it now than on the trail.

Since I wanted to move away from the door fitment, what better way to do it than figure out my wandering steering hahaha. I did a bunch of reconnaissance and after getting some feedback online and offline I opened up the manual hubs to see what they looked like inside. Surprisingly both were in decent shape and the bearings were not loose enough to be the cause of my wandering steering. Also most of the play in my videos is not overly concerning but I will be addressing it anyway.

Steering links are all in good shape, steering gear is brand new, frame around gear is not cracked, steering stabilizer is brand new, ball joints have no or minimal play using the "grab the top and bottom of the tire and move back and forth as much as you can" method, after checking both wheel bearings they were slightly loose but nothing that would cause the driving characteristics I have. The passenger side outer lockring was completely loose just now when I pulled the Warn hub off. The last person to work on it did not install the washer correctly so the nipple wasnt settled into a hole so the lockring was just loose in there. The inner lockring was still relatively tight though.

Whats most interesting is the passenger side Warn hub innards are different than the driver side. One has a metal backer on the spring and one has a plastic backer. Also the side with the plastic backer has a lot more movement of the parts than the side with all metal. For example, between the small gear that rides on the axle shaft and the c-clip that holds it on, there is a 1/4" gap whereas the driver side has basically no gap. Parts have definitely been replaced in the past but I dont know whats original Warn and whats not. I forgot to get a picture of the driver side with the metal spring backer. I might pull it apart again just to learn.

The passenger side has more play than the driver side, even after tightening the wheel bearings. After pulling all this apart tonight Im really starting to think its the inverted leafs. Which is fine because I plan on replacing the suspension anyway with a full ORD setup. I was planning to swap the axles later on down the road so Ill see how the truck behaves with new suspension and then decide how quickly to source and build a 60/14.


Here is a random selection of pictures from today ha.


The plastic spring backer and c clip I mentioned earlier.

My wonderfully inverted front leafs. The passenger side is on a jack stand so its about 2" higher than normal but its not "flexed out" to make things looks different than they actually are. The front suspension basically has zero movement.

Driver side disassembly

 

[ZooMad75]

Those are stock leaf springs. They were that way out of the factory. Nothing out of the ordinary, but it sure don't look normal when you think of leaf springs normally arching upwards at the ends.

My Warn Premium hubs don't have the plastic cup inside. If I didn't know any better it looks like what would be inside a factory Spicer hub lock that usually has a big spring riding in a cup like that and putting pressure on the lock knob itself. Or it's just a different version of the Warn hubs they might have changed over the 45+ years of production and one side got changed out for a newer unit when one broke. Who knows.

As far as the door hinge issues goes, it's much easier to deal with the front fenders removed. Overkill yes, but the whole front clip adjustment starts with how the door fits first. We've got an '81 K20 in our body shop right now that got hit in the front end. Fenders were off to be replaced anyway, but the passenger door dropped a full inch when it's first opened. Even before the accident, it was grabbing the rear edge of the fender too. Pins and bushings were wasted. We unbolted the doors from the hinges and left the hinges on the body. The pins were cut in the center and driven out. New bushings popped in and the pins reinstalled with the door side of the hinge. The door was reinstalled and tried out. The striker needed a little adjustment but it wasn't dropping like it was before when opened. It fit the body line to the cab well and really didn't require much more adjustment until they fit the fender. Having the fender off allows easier access to the hinge bolts on the door. But it could be done with the fender on as you know, it just takes a little more effort.

 

[Atl-atl]

Those are stock leaf springs. They were that way out of the factory. Nothing out of the ordinary, but it sure don't look normal when you think of leaf springs normally arching upwards at the ends.

My Warn Premium hubs don't have the plastic cup inside. If I didn't know any better it looks like what would be inside a factory Spicer hub lock that usually has a big spring riding in a cup like that and putting pressure on the lock knob itself. Or it's just a different version of the Warn hubs they might have changed over the 45+ years of production and one side got changed out for a newer unit when one broke. Who knows.

As far as the door hinge issues goes, it's much easier to deal with the front fenders removed. Overkill yes, but the whole front clip adjustment starts with how the door fits first. We've got an '81 K20 in our body shop right now that got hit in the front end. Fenders were off to be replaced anyway, but the passenger door dropped a full inch when it's first opened. Even before the accident, it was grabbing the rear edge of the fender too. Pins and bushings were wasted. We unbolted the doors from the hinges and left the hinges on the body. The pins were cut in the center and driven out. New bushings popped in and the pins reinstalled with the door side of the hinge. The door was reinstalled and tried out. The striker needed a little adjustment but it wasn't dropping like it was before when opened. It fit the body line to the cab well and really didn't require much more adjustment until they fit the fender. Having the fender off allows easier access to the hinge bolts on the door. But it could be done with the fender on as you know, it just takes a little more effort.

You're telling me the leaf springs were inverted like that, stock?

 

[ZooMad75]

You're telling me the leaf springs were inverted like that, stock?

Yep, no joke. As they age and sag it just gets more pronounced too.

 

[Atl-atl]

Yep, no joke. As they age and sag it just gets more pronounced too.

Wow thats terrible.

 

[ZooMad75]

Wow thats terrible.

It's why a typical 4" lift nets a little more when comparing to old flat springs.

4" is about as high as I'd go with the camper too. Any more really amplifies the center of gravity over a stock K5. CaptRon's running 6" on his K5 camper and wheeling both of ours together in Moab showed the difference. His was more tippy climbing up and down. It's a balancing act for sure.

 

[Atl-atl]

Thanks for the response @ZooMad75. Im beginning to rearrange my priorities after this weekend. If I were to tell you I found a 96 3/4 ton Suburban with an L29 that runs and drives for $2000, would you call that a good deal? To answer my own question, I think yes.


I went camping and mountain biking in Sedona this weekend. The Blazer barely made it. Temps got up into the 100s in the valley last Friday and it started vapor locking like mad going up the mountains North of Phoenix. Once we got to the cool air it was fine all weekend. Then coming back to Phoenix Sunday afternoon, same thing, had to pull over a few times and pour cold water on the fuel pump/lines/carb and remove the air cleaner and run the carb completely open to get up the big passes. I have only just begun to look into vapor lock issues and my quick peak under the truck made me realize I have aftermarket saddle tanks that are partially disconnected. Im hoping to rip them out this week and run through all the lines, tank vent etc. I hope I dont have to drop the tank but if Im messing with gas I might as well put in a new sock. The truck is really hard to fill with gas so Im thinking at a minimum the tank vent line is plugged.


That Suburban might find its way into my driveway this week.

 

[Atl-atl]

This is an L29 correct?

 

[Capt Ron]

This is an L29 correct?

Yes

 

[Atl-atl]

Yes

It has 230,000 miles. Is that a concern for these motors? Its currently running and driving, a/c even works.

 

[ZooMad75]

That's high mileage, but livable. A compression test would give a state of health of the cylinders. As long as they are within 10% of the average it could be a good candidate. I can't remember how many miles Ron's L29 had when he got it, but knowing it came from a shuttle bus it might have been up there.

I had a feeling the carb'd 350 would struggle in the heat and climbs. I've got similar pics of mine stuck on the side of the road in very picturesque places with it stalled out due to a fuel issue. I know how that feels all too well. Mine ended up being a kinked hose off of the fuel pump in the tank.

2 grand is good for a complete runner. Because it's got the trans you want too. It should be a 4L80e which will give you OD too. I'd be on the lookout for a 208 t-case at minimum or a 241 which will bolt on the the back of the trans like stock. Driveshafts will change due to the length of the 4L80. To maximize rear shaft length the t-case will need a slip yoke eliminator too.

I'd drive the suburban around and get a good feel for how the engine pulls and how the trans performs. 230k on the trans could be pushing it if it hasn't been maintained. Check fluid level and quality. Look for signs of flake or any foreign material.

 

[Atl-atl]

That's high mileage, but livable. A compression test would give a state of health of the cylinders. As long as they are within 10% of the average it could be a good candidate. I can't remember how many miles Ron's L29 had when he got it, but knowing it came from a shuttle bus it might have been up there.

I had a feeling the carb'd 350 would struggle in the heat and climbs. I've got similar pics of mine stuck on the side of the road in very picturesque places with it stalled out due to a fuel issue. I know how that feels all too well. Mine ended up being a kinked hose off of the fuel pump in the tank.

2 grand is good for a complete runner. Because it's got the trans you want too. It should be a 4L80e which will give you OD too. I'd be on the lookout for a 208 t-case at minimum or a 241 which will bolt on the the back of the trans like stock. Driveshafts will change due to the length of the 4L80. To maximize rear shaft length the t-case will need a slip yoke eliminator too.

I'd drive the suburban around and get a good feel for how the engine pulls and how the trans performs. 230k on the trans could be pushing it if it hasn't been maintained. Check fluid level and quality. Look for signs of flake or any foreign material.

It appears to be well kept. Guy "claims" it was maintained and the pics are current and it will drive from Yuma to Phoenix right now no problem. If all this is true it seems like a no brainer to me. I could steal the 14 bolt out of it also, right? Or is it not the 14 bolt thats desirable?

edit: even if the trans needs a rebuild or the motor needs some freshening, seems like at least a break even deal.

Slightly fearful of someone else stealing it hahaha...
https://yuma.craigslist.org/cto/d/san-luis-car-for-sale/7108341548.html

 

[ZooMad75]

It appears to be well kept. Guy "claims" it was maintained and the pics are current and it will drive from Yuma to Phoenix right now no problem. If all this is true it seems like a no brainer to me. I could steal the 14 bolt out of it also, right? Or is it not the 14 bolt thats desirable?

edit: even if the trans needs a rebuild or the motor needs some freshening, seems like at least a break even deal.

Slightly fearful of someone else stealing it hahaha...
https://yuma.craigslist.org/cto/d/san-luis-car-for-sale/7108341548.html

Coming from a big block burb it should be a 10.5" full floater. Still has drums out back but that's ok, they are big ones. Spring pad and shock mounts are in the wrong spots for your truck and would have to be removed and new ones in the correct locations. I know it's wider than a Squarebody 14bolt but can't remember by how much. Stock squarebody rear diffs are 3" narrower than the front to start with so if it a little wider it's ok.

Looks like a solid old man burb. If the truck reflects the care it wouldn't be a huge risk. It might be worth it to have the trans gone through while it's out for good insurance.

 

[Atl-atl]

Coming from a big block burb it should be a 10.5" full floater. Still has drums out back but that's ok, they are big ones. Spring pad and shock mounts are in the wrong spots for your truck and would have to be removed and new ones in the correct locations. I know it's wider than a Squarebody 14bolt but can't remember by how much. Stock squarebody rear diffs are 3" narrower than the front to start with so if it a little wider it's ok.

Looks like a solid old man burb. If the truck reflects the care it wouldn't be a huge risk. It might be worth it to have the trans gone through while it's out for good insurance.

Does it make more sense to just spend the $2000 on an LS/NV4500 or something like that? I kind of want to do a manual.

 

[ZooMad75]

Does it make more sense to just spend the $2000 on an LS/NV4500 or something like that? I kind of want to do a manual.

Personal preference here, but to answer your question, no. Unless you really want to get into tweaking a LS to build the torque down low like a L29 or 8.1 do stock, you are going to live with a lot of high rpm running to get the torque you need to move one of these things.

Cam and tuning would be at minimum where you need to start on a LS and get nothing less than a 6.0L for size. Mine with a 5.3 struggles in the mountains and high headwinds. Even with better gearing it would be wound out running 3-5,000 rpm on the hills.

A gen v 6.2 with direct injection is another option as they are very good stock form, still rev happy but better all around over the early gen 3/4 stuff. But they are more cost up front, little more complex and require more adaptation since they lack p/s pumps from the factory.

I'd split your idea slightly. Keep the L29, sell the slushbox and get the nv4500. That's Ron's exact combo and it moves his so much better than mine in the mountains. You would still need a round pattern t-case which you could use a 208, 241 (both aluminum case/chain drive, with deeper low range) or a late round pattern 205 (gear driven, strong as hell but 1.96:1 low range). The round pattern 205's are scarce and pricy. Ron has a 241 in his as I do in mine with the 2.72:1 low range.

It's your call for sure. But the 8.1 is going in mine for the main reason of being annoyed to rev out the 5.3 like a rented mule every time I head into the mountains. It handles the job but works a lot harder than a bigger engine does. Besides if I'm going to get 12-13 mpg I might as well have fun driving the speed limit up passes vs 30-40 mph.

 

[Moody Bricker]

Went back to Napa when they opened this morning at 9 and picked up a bigger radiator. My truck had the ~20" tall radiator so I swapped the 17" I got yesterday for a 20 7/8" tall one that is supposed to be for the big block trucks. Its the Napa Spectre NR730. All the fittings lined up and the width is the same so I figured Id give it a shot. Fits perfectly and its BEEF!!! Nearly 3 times the thickness of the stock radiator. 3 core, everything lined up exactly. Only modification I had to make was cutting a small chunk out of the upper rubber mounts due to the increased depth. Otherwise it went right in and is working great. Heat and AC work and all seems well after a drive around town and on the highway. This puppy is all set for AZ summer. I do need to recharge the AC I think, it bounces between blowing cold air and warm air as you cruise down the road. Anybody know if that means something specific about the system?


Theres the missing vacuum routing diagram. Big block intake on this truck is interesting.

Yeah she thicc too.

At the top of the picture you can see the chunk I cut out of the upper rubber mounts.

All new everything makes me quite happy.

Your fuel line runs real close to your ex-manfold, ,but it might be the carb is tune to sea-level and when you get high it can't suck enough to draw enough gass,your Gass line should not hang wide over the finder.Jm2cw.